From Buck Surdu’s blog – Frinx and Ducks and robots

Buck I returned from holiday in England and then spent a week at work, including the weekend, finishing up a proposal. This weekend was our club night and a comparative play test of some post-apocalyptic rules sets. I didn’t have a chance to start a new project, so I just finished some partially-completed figures that […]

via Some Weekend Painting — H.A.W.K.S.

Want to make a difference in YOUR life? Then read and follow an excellent blog for motivation – my friend Joe Ciccarone’s “SALESVIBE”

I had the chance to see Philadelphia’s own Joe Ciccarone present at our sales meeting today.  That’s our selfie above after his presentation.

He succinctly shared some great wisdom and frankly I was blown away!  At 7 am on the last day of a meeting he drew a standing ovation – pretty damn cool talk!

Truly, he was superb.  His talk was based on his life and what he has learned, and much of that he shares in his weekly blog.  It really is a great read, and worth the time.  He is a deep thinker, but writes with impact.  Even if you are not in sales, its very apropos to life.

Thanks Joe for a truly motivational moment!   You fired me up!

His latest entry follows:

 

“Get comfortable being uncomfortable. That’s how you break the plateau and reach the next level.” – Chalene Johnson How do you get to the next level? A mentor of mine told me I needed to become UNCOMFORTABLE. He said, “What do you think about that makes you uncomfortable? That’s the project you should be working […]

via Get Uncomfortable — salesvibe

“Bonnie”, Reaper Chronoscope fighter

This blog is about the second figure that I painted for Chris Smedile’s birthday.  It is a 28mm Reaper Chronoscope figure, “Bonnie” (#80025) sculpted by Julie Guthrie in 2015 or 2016.  This was a challenging project mainly as I have so little experience in this type of fashion (if it can be called that).  This is also my first “Reaper Bones” figure (resin) as all my others have mainly been metal.  You can see the website link for it here.

0 Bonnie jpeg
From the Reaper website

I noticed that the figure had visible mold lines, which I tried to remove with an Exacto knife and some light sanding.  Then, I decided to apply a wash with Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” over the figure so as to see the details better.

2 Bonnie front
After wash, front
1 Bonnie Back
After wash, rear view

I initially had a struggle trying to have a vision for this figure.  Basically, she is a well-armed (probably overly-armed) post-apocalyptic warrior or perhaps a zombie hunter.  After looking at her attire, I decided that she needed to have a bright comic book look – after all, who wears this in the apocalypse?  Also, early on I was not so enamored of the details (or lack of details) that were molded on her face.  I ended up thinking about it a bit – and eventually going with a patent leather and purple/pink/violet and glossy black theme.

First, I base-coated the figure.  I began with her flesh, using P3 “Midland Flesh”.  I used Citadel “Ceramite White” for the whites of her eyes, and Americana “Ebony” for the pupils.

For her midriff vest/leather armor,  I used Americana “Slate Gray”.  Regarding her socks, halter top, and wrist wraps (I’m sure there is a name for them but hey, my fashion sense is limited!), I broke open my Americana “Bubblegum Pink”.  I did not like the solid pink look on the  top and the wrist wraps, so I mixed that with a little Americana “Vivid Violet” and “Dioxazine Purple” and that seemed to work better.  For her hot pants (or shorty-shorts if you’re Larry the Cable Guy), I went with a very distinctive purple – Americana “Dioxazine Purple”.  I gave her boots and straps a patent leather appearance with Armory “Gloss Black”.  I decided that her hair should be black, so I went with Americana “Ebony” and a Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash.  I gave her some hair highlights in with the three colors – “Vivid Violet”, “Dioxazine Purple”, and “Bubblegum Pink”.

For her two submachine guns, I applied Vallejo “Gun Metal”, which I also used for the triggers on her two sawed-off shotguns in holsters on her back.  I painted the handles of the shotguns with Armory “Musket Brown”, followed by Vallejo “Wood”.  For the base, I used Americana “Zinc”.

I moved on to some finer details and shading.  I drybrushed her boot laces with “Bubblegum Pink”.  I used Secret Weapons Washes “Armor Wash” to shade the submachine guns and her midriff armor.  I highlighted the guns with “Gun Metal”. I washed her flesh with a light use of Citadel “Reikland Fleshshade” .  Also I highlighted her ribbed sock tops with “Dioxazine Purple”.  For her bottom lips and the inside of her mouth, I chose Polly-S “Demon Deep Red”.

3 Bonnie initial basecoat
Initial base coating, highlights, and shading, front of Bonnie 
3 Bonnie initial basecoat, back
Initial base coating, highlights, and shading, back of Bonnie 

As you can see above, Bonnie looks pretty tan, and I felt as if she needed to look a little less of a tanning booth patron.  So, I lightened up her skin by mixing in P3 “Ryn Flesh” with some “Midland Flesh”.  I also tried to clean her up overall in a number of small fixes.  I used Americana “Slate” to highlight the base, gave it a wash of Secret Weapons Washes “Heavy Body Black”, and painted the washer on the bottom “Ebony”.

4 Bonnie base coated, prevarnish, front
Before varnish, front
5 Bonnie base coated, prevarnish, back
Before varnish, back

I then gave the figure two coats of Testors “Dullcoat”, allowing for adequate drying between steps.

6 Bonnie finished (blurry)
Bonnie completed, frontal view
7 Bonnie finished back
Bonnie completed, rear view

 

8 Bonnie finished side
Bonnie, aiming at you!

Overall, I thought the figure came out ok.  I was disappointed at the lack of facial details, especially as this was a Julie Guthrie figure, but perhaps that is a function of the resin.  The mold lines were harder to cut and sand than I would have thought.  I would use Bones figures again, but I am still preferential to metal.

The good news is that Chris like it, and I hope that he has a lot of great gameplay with it!

 

 

 

 

RAFM Bard from 1992

I apologize to my readers as its been a while since I have blogged, and as you will see I will be somewhat more active this week as I have completed some projects and now have a few things to actually write about!  I expect that I will write three blog entries this week about projects that I have completed.

This is my first entry and concerns a RAFM Bard sculpted by Steven Koo in 1992 as part of the Women of the Ninth Meridian line.  Here is a link to the 1994 catalog from DnD Lead website that shows that there were three in each set.  The circled figure is the subject of this blog.  The figure had pointed ears, so obviously she is an elf.

0 Bard
From the 1994 RAFM Catalog

Chris Smedile’s birthday was coming up, so I offered him the chance to go through my assorted unpainted miniatures and pick a couple of figures that he would like me to paint for him.  He picked two – this Bard, and a Reaper Chronoscope Bones figure (which you can read about here).  It is 25mm in scale, cast in white metal (possibly lead-free), and had great detail.

 

 

1 Bard unpainted, front
Bard front view before painting

 

 

2 Bard unpainted, back
Rear view of Bard before painting

 

 

 

3 Bard unpainted, bottom
“RAFM 92”

 

I looked at the weather forecast as I wanted to finish this project in time to properly use spray varnish outside – and I need close to 70° F and low humidity for best effect.  I wanted her to have a slight “Little Red Riding Hood” look.

Beginning the base coat process, I started with the flesh, and used P3 “Ryn Flesh”.  I painted her flute with Tamiya “Chrome Silver”.  Using a pine tipped brush, I painted her eyes with Citadel “Ceramite White” and Reaper MSP “Blue Liner”.  Moving on to her hair, I decided to go with blond.  For that, P3 “Sulphuric Yellow”  was my choice.  For her tunic and her earrings, I went with a paint I purchased in West Germany in 1987, Deka Lack “Dunkelblau” (dark blue).  She had a thin sword, and the scabbard I painted with Vallejo “Gun Metal”.

Moving on to her cape, I got another oldie but goodie paint from 1984.  This was Polly-S “Demon Deep Red”, which ironically is older than Chris is!!  I also used that color to base her hair ribbon.  For her breeches, I based with Armory “Prussian Blue”.  For the trim and cuffs on her tunic, I used another Deka Lack paint, “Weiss” (white).  She had a canteen and a pouch on her belt.  These I painted respectively with Vallejo “US Dark Green” and Armory “Brick Red”.  For her leatherwork and straps, I decided on P3 “Bootstrap Leather”.  I needed to finish her metallics, and so I painted her brooch and sword pommel with Vallejo “Silver”, and her belt buckle and scabbard tip with Vallejo “Bright Brass”.   She has a jewel in her brooch, which I painted with Citadel “Soulstone Blue”.  For her base, I used Americana “Hauser Light Green” so as to make later base applications better.

 

4 Bard base coated, front
Bard, front, after base coat

 

 

5 Bard base coated, back
Bard, back, after base coat

 

I then moved on to highlighting and shading the figure.  For her hair, I used successive washes, first with P3 “Sunshine Yellow” and then with Citadel “Reikland Fleshshade”.  I then used a wash on the tunic with Citadel “Agrax Earthshade”.  I then lightly washed her hands with “Reikland Fleshshade”.  To highlight her facial features, I mixed Polly-S “Elf Flesh” with P3 “Ryn Flesh” and applied it to her cheeks, nose, hand and fingers.

For her breeches, I shaded with “Agrax Earthshade”, followed by highlighting with a mix of “Weiss” and “Prussian Blue”.  Lastly, I moved on to her cape and hair ribbon.   Here, I darkened the cape with “Agrax Earthshade”, then highlighted it with Americana “Santa Red”.  I also painted her hair ribbon with “Santa Red”.

To finish the base, I applied Army Painter “Moss Green” flocking with white glue.  Then the figure got two coats of Testors spray “Dullcoat”, allowing for sufficient drying time between coats.  To finish her, I added a yellow flower tuft from Army Painter “Meadow Flowers”.

 

8 Bard finished, front
Finished Bard, frontal view

 

 

9 Bard finished, back
Finished Bard, rear view

 

 

10 Bard finished, side
Finished Bard, side view

Overall, I was pleased with the work I did on the figure.  It was a nice break from my very large Star Duck project.

Chris got it on his birthday, and he loved it!  I am looking forward to hearing of her exploits!

 

 

What was going on in Finland During the Viking Age? Are the Finns descended from or related to the Vikings?

I am a lover of history, and of course love the dramatized series Vikings on the History Channel.  It takes some dramatic license of course, but is fun.

Lately, the History Channel has added Real Vikings as an add-on show.  It’s pretty good as you get to get some interesting facts and stories about the Vikings while seeing some of the European sites that they lived in and raided.

I’ve always been curious about my relationship to the Vikings and other races in history genetically.  I am ¼ Irish, ¼ Finnish, 3/16 French Canadian (the French origins of Morin seem to be more from Normandy), 1/16 Micmac tribe, 1/8 Swedish, and 1/8 Italian (near Naples).  Clearly the Irish side would have Celtic ancestry, but there were a lot of Vikings in Ireland – and I believe every major city in Ireland, or most of them, started out as Viking settlements during their raiding period.  The Normans certainly were of Viking ancestry, and Swedes were pretty much as well (along with Norwegians and Danes).  So I am pretty sure that Viking DNA is in me from the Irish, the French, and the Swedes, but what of the Finns?

The article below by Kristian Ola (Wilpuri) on the website All Empires is very interesting.  She does a very nice job in English (I believe she is a Finn).  Basically, she discusses the Finnic and Ugric tribes that lived in the Finnish peninsula during the Viking Age and how they interacted based upon the archeologic record.  I have a better appreciation now of how the Finns (and their ancestors) really got stuck between the Swedes and Russians going back to the days of the Vikings.  Curiously, during the Cold War, the Finns did not explore much of their history of that time so as not to alienate the USSR.  In any case, I thought this was a good read.

http://www.allempires.com/article/index.php?q=Viking_Age_Finland

 

 

Welcome Tabitha Lynn Smedile, our first granddaughter!

So happy to share good news – our first granddaughter, arrived early on December 17th!  She arrived weighing 9 lbs. and 10 ounces, and 21 ½” long!

She and her Mom and Dad (Ellen and Chris) are now home and doing well!  Merry Christmas!

Thought I’d share some pictures:

 

12222016-2-tabitha-lynn-smedile-in-hat-on-side-at-st-vincents-hospital
Hat says “My First Christmas”

 

 

12222016-lynn-and-tabitha-3
Lynn and Tabitha

 

 

12222016-lynn-and-tabitha-2
“Mem” is all smiles!
12222016-papa-and-tabitha-at-st-vincents-hospital-1
So is “Papa”

 

 

Slag or Lava Mounds for Sci-Fi

I have been casting miniatures with pewter for a while now, and I usually use a spoon to remove any impurities, slag, and ash that are floating on top of my crucible before I pour anything into the molds.  Up to now, this material was useless to me.  As I am now working on creating retro sci-fi units for Combat Patrol™ games, I came up with the idea of repurposing this material for needed terrain – like old lava flow mounds or industrial slag.

To finish up for October, I created four CD-mounted slag/lava mounds using three regular size CD’s and a smaller one.  I used five slag piles, gluing each to the CD with wood glue and letting them sit overnight.  I also applied a coat of wood glue to the surfaces of the CD’s  for better paint and flocking adhesion down the line.

 

1-step-one-with-slag-on-cds
Step one – the slag is glued to the CD’s – and other projects look on!

 

I then primed the group with Krylon “Ultra-Flat Black” matte spray paint.  I took Reaper Master Series Paints “Grey Liner” and coated the slag and the CD’s.  After this, I applied a coat of Citadel “Nuln Oil”.  To bring out the highlights, I used Americana “Zinc” to dry brush the pieces.

 

3-step-3-with-slag-on-cds-for-priming-after-gray-liner-application
After priming and dry brushing

 

I then let the pieces dry.  Then, I used white glue to affix two types of flocking from Army Painter – “Ash Grey” and “Battlefield Black” in a random pattern.  I applied two coats of Testors “Dull Coat”, allowing for adequate drying in between each.

4-example-after-completion

 

5-example-after-completion

 

6-example-after-completion

 

 

7-all-slag-after-completion
The four pieces completed

 

I am pretty pleased with the results.  It was not a difficult process at all.  Of course, I will need to acquire a dark cloth for covering my tabletop battlefield with these.  I thought about adding some grasses or tuft, but in the end went for a more wasteland look – devoid of life.  I look forward to having figures use them as cover in a Combat Patrol™ game!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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