Winkie Sharpshooter Regiment (Wars of Ozz)

Now that I have a full Munchkin Brigade (as you saw in my last post), I needed to start building a worthy opponent. I decided to go with the Winkies – the orcs of the Wars of Ozz. Yes, the “oh-eee-oh” dudes from the movie.

My first unit ended up being atypical – as Winkies normally don’t think much of firearms and missile weapons (or those who wield them in battle). The Winkies consider melee as their preferred means of combat. Still, they do have some artillery, and as shown here a small contingent of troops armed with muskets to provide some firepower. My Winkie brigade will eventually have melee troops, light artillery, and Zilk-riding cavalry (zilks are giant ostrich-like carnivorous birds that Winkies capture and train as mounts – though they are known to eat fallen enemy and their Winkie riders alike). I’ll also have some Great Flying Apes, some lesser apes, and their witch Evora. I am trying to get as many as possible done so games can begin, and to that end I am batch-priming and batch-painting as many units as possible.

Back to the WSR – just like most Ozz regiments, this Winkie Sharpshooter Regiment (WSR) (#OZZ303) has 21 figures in total. They are on 5 bases – 4 figures with muskets per 4 stands, plus 4 figures on a single command stand, along with a regimental commander stand (MDF). The WSR is 28mm in scale, and the figures are metal. It is worth 7 points versus a regular Winkie infantry unit which costs only 5.

I began prepping the unit back on December 12th – and was hoping to finish by the end of the year – which I did today, December 31st! This allowed me to accomplish two things. First. I got to break the 200 level of painted figures for 2022 (I actually painted 202 in 2022 with the completion of the WSR). It also allowed me to enter this as my first (and definitely not the last) unit for Dave Stone’s “Paint What You Got 2022/2023” challenge.

The Ozz rules say that the WSS should have “forest green” coats and khaki trousers. And because Evora just loves yellow – a healthy amount of yellow on all Winkies. The WSR figures had fur caps of two different types, plus three different kinds of armor – to include cotton armor like I had on my Aztecs and Conquistadores. I tried to mix them up them on each stand/base for a more varied look. I worked on the muskets first as I wanted them to be very distinctive of the WSR. As I felt that the fur caps HAD to be black, I made the Winkies’ hair to be a bluish grey over w white highlight so as to better stick out from underneath the dark headpieces. I needed to work around Christmas and and scheduled sinus surgery on 12/28 to complete them, so I am happy that I did. On Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, there is a marathon showing of the movie “A Christmas Story” which influenced me and played a part in some of my choices of colors that you’ll see below. A hint, “pink nightmare”…

More on this in a bit!

My goal is always to achieve a good tabletop standard – and you can be the judge about that. As usual, I will list all the paints I used on this unit at the end of this post for those interested in that sort of stuff (and for my own use for later reference as well – I do forget stuff on occasion). First, I’ll share some WIP shots, then some eye candy of the WSS.

WIP shots…

Primed in white and ready for painting on December 22nd
After priming, I added a wash of Citadel “Nuln Oil”, then dry brushed in white. The figure on the right has not been dry brushed yet and is shown for comparison with the one on the right which has only been washed on December 23rd.

Then came Christmas! After all the festivities, I knew I only had a couple of days to get the unit mostly done before I had my sinus surgery. That surgery would consist of my surgeon drilling out my internal sinus openings so I could drain better – as I have been plagued with increasingly worse headache episodes all year. Yes, this was done under anesthesia and more drugs. The headaches DID get in the way of both golf and miniature painting, as well as all of the simultaneous sinus infections I was having, so this was necessary.

December 26th progress
December 27th progress

Then it was time to get my head drilled on December 28th. All went well, and recovery is coming along as expected, but I was in no shape to paint!

December 28th – my head was pretty swollen – even more than usual 😁. Normally I don’t have a head like Peter Griffin from “Family Guy”.

Did I mention that as part of this procedure the surgeon applies cocaine? Yup, and I’m pretty much just a beer guy so…yeah…

Anyways, I was back painting on the 29th, and made good progress by the 30th. One remaining major issue for me was how to paint the regimental commander’s zilk. Remember, Winkies look down on missile weapons, and I can imagine that the better-looking zilks would go to the cavalry and the regimental commanders of melee weapon-bearing infantry. I also had Ralphie’s rabbit suit in my mind subliminally, plus add in any residual cocaine…

And I ended up with a bubble-gum pink and purple zilk…

Now, I am not sure how I feel about it, but it’s done now! Wars of Ozz are supposed to be colorful anyway – and hell, I had had that pink paint for a while without ever using it. I ended up airbrush varnishing the WSR with a gloss then a matte varnish so as to keep the colors bright but not shiny.

Base preparation on December 30th – the figures needed extra care for mounting if they were to look good. You can see the Wars of Ozz picture from the web store that I printed off as a guide underneath on the right.

As for mounting, I wanted the bases to have an appropriate look – with muskets facing forward and in parallel. Once the varnish had dried, I removed the WSR from their specimen jars. Then, I needed to use small bits of poster tack on the figures’ actual bases/bottoms – and a sharpie to trace out how they would fit on the 2″ square steel bases. Then I applied an initial flocking around where the figures would not be. After that had dried, I glued the figures carefully to the steel bases and added multiple grasses and flocking to the steel bases and the regimental commander’s MDF base. This took up most of the effort on the 30th as I added three types of grass plus flowers to give the bases depth and to not just see the shapes of the figures under one layer of flocking. It’s probably overkill, but I do prefer to have nicer bases. The flocking was done on December 30th. Then, it was flag time.

Most (but not all) regiments in Ozz have standards to apply to a couple of figures on a command base. One would be for the faction, the other would be for the regiment. These are available on the Ozz Facebook page as free downloads. When I looked for the WSR, there was no specified flag! By luck, my West Point buddy (and author of the Wars of Ozz rules) Buck Surdu had called me to check in on me post-surgery, and told me he would fix that – and boy he did as you’ll see below – Morin’s Sharpshooters! Hmmm, Buck, does this mean I ride a pink Zilk?

Thanks Buck!

As New Year’s Eve is today, I printed off the flags and finished the WSR. I also made a new backdrop for taking photos of the Winkies as I thought they needed a darker and less friendly look than I gave the Munchkin regiments. You’ll see that below in…

Eye Candy

There are 5 stands of 4 figures each – 4 are similar and one is a command stand with an officer, 2 standard bearers and a bugler. I varied the flocking slightly but distinctly – hoping to have an overall match while having some uniqueness for each base. The pink zilk-mounted regimental commander goes on an MDF stand.

Regimental Commander Stand

Stand 1

Stand 2

Stand 3

Stand 4

Command Stand

Group shots

The WSR in line formation with the Regimental Commander in the rear.
The WSR in column formation with the Regimental Commander in the front.
A side view of the WSR in column formation with the Regimental Commander in the front.
A right side view of the WSR in another line formation with the Regimental Commander in the front.
A right side view of the WSR in another line formation with the Regimental Commander in the rear.
The WSR about to fire!

I will continue to build my brigade of Winkies in 2023, as well as more Ozz goodness. I hope that you will stay with and/or join me on this journey.

My next post will be a 2022 roundup and 2023 goal setting one. There, I’ll review and hold myself accountable for my 2022 predictions and goals of a year ago. Hell, somebody has to do it!

There, I will set my 2023 goals as well.

I wish all of you a very Happy New Year – and please know that I am very appreciative of your readership and support!

Still have more to come…

Miscellaneous details and references for those interested in that sort of thing:

For all of my previous posts on Wars of Ozz games, figures, units, and other related projects – please see this page.

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THIS WINKIE SHARPSHOOTER REGIMENT:

  1. Gorilla Glue
  2. Paper clip wire pieces
  3. 1 1/4″ x 1″ steel base from Wargames Accessories (#FOW1)
  4. Poster tack
  5. Vallejo Premium Primer “White”
  6. Vallejo “Flow Improver”
  7. Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
  8. Citadel “Nuln Oil” (wash)
  9. Vallejo Model Color “White”
  10. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Ork Skin”
  11. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Contrast Medium”
  12. Vallejo Model Air “Gun Metal”
  13. Vallejo Model Air “Steel”
  14. Vallejo Model Color “Wood Grain”
  15. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Runic Grey”
  16. Citadel “Ironbreaker”
  17. Citadel “Nuln Oil GLOSS” (wash)
  18. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Black Legion”
  19. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Aggaros Dunes”
  20. Citadel “Warpfiend Grey”
  21. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Black Legion”
  22. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Striking Scorpion Green”
  23. Vallejo Game Air “Sick Green”
  24. Vallejo Game Ink “Yellow”
  25. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Hardened Leather”
  26. Vallejo Game Ink “Black Green”
  27. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Ironjawz Yellow”
  28. Citadel “Lamenters Yellow” (glaze)
  29. Vallejo Model Air “Bright Brass”
  30. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Skeleton Horde”
  31. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Holy White”
  32. Americana “Bubblegum Pink”
  33. Citadel “Fire Dragon Bright”
  34. Vallejo Game Air “Black”
  35. Americana “Dioxazine Purple”
  36. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Doomfire Magenta”
  37. Army Painter “Purple Tone” (wash/shade)
  38. Citadel “Changeling Pink” (dry)
  39. Vallejo “Gloss Varnish”
  40. Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Matte Varnish”
  41. Regimental MDF base from Old Glory/Wars of Ozz Miniatures
  42. 2″ square steel base from Wargames Accessories (#21)
  43. Black Sharpie pen
  44. PS Model Color “British Brown Drab”
  45. Elmer’s PVA Glue
  46. Army Painter “Battlefields Grass Green” (flocking)
  47. Army Painter “Battlefield Field Grass” (flocking)
  48. Army Painter “Battlefields Field Grass” (flocking)
  49. Army Painter “Battlefields Meadow Flowers” (flocking)
  50. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “6mm Dark Forest Pink Tufts” (flocking)
  51. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “6mm Dark Forest Purple Tufts” (flocking)
  52. Winkie Flags from Buck Surdu printed on card stock
  53. Blue Sharpie Pen
  54. Brown Sharpie Pen

Again, as you may want to check out the Wars of Ozz figures range – there are two places to get them (and I make no money from this btw). The game rules and figures are available from the following two places:

In the US Old Glory has a site – Wars of Ozz Miniatures.

In the UK go to Sally 4th.

Munchkin Light Cavalry with Command (Wars of Ozz)

I had previously built two infantry regiments and an artillery battery for my Munchkin Brigade. It was time to add a cavalry regiment to my Munchkin Brigade for Wars of Ozz. This was a Light Cavalry Regiment, OZZ108 from Wars of Ozz miniatures.

The regiment is 28mm and metal. It is composed of made of 11 figures broken into 11 ponies, 11 riders (from the torso up), and 11 carbines. The riders also are armed with sabers, so they can also engage the enemy from a distance (although carbines are not very long ranged). The Light Cavalry Regiment (LCR) is worth the same amount of points as the Medium Artillery Battery that I described in my last post. Each base in the game can take 4 hits, even though with cavalry there are only two figures per 2″ square base. This regiment has 5 bases plus a regimental commander on an MDF base.

The rules say that the LCR should have “dragoon green” coats and light blue trousers. The ponies (these are Munchkins) are supposed to be in multiple pastel colors – which allowed me to use a number of Citadel Contrast and Army Painter Speed Paints. I painted the carbines, riders, and ponies all separately. Then, I assembled all after painting and varnishing was completed. I used both my specimen jars/poster tack combos and my painting stand with alligator clips to paint and varnish. The project was started on December 8th, and completed on December 19th. There was a lot more work here than I expected – I really needed to plan out the painting and assembly. I also did a bit of research on Napoleonic cavalry as my Napoleonic painting experience level is – well zero. My goal was to achieve a good tabletop standard – and you can be the judge of whether I achieved that. As usual, I will list all the paints I used on this unit at the end of this post for those interested in that sort of stuff (and for my own use for later reference as well). First, I’ll share some WIP shots, then some eye candy of the LCR.

WIP shots…

I actually prepped the bases first and started the flocking so that I would not have to manhandle the painted figures later on.

Base prep/sizing.

Then, I prepped/mounted the remaining torsos and riders for painting.

Mounted and tagged for painting. With each pony having a different color, this was instrumental.

The painting proceeded ok – though with all of the details it took a bit longer than I anticipated. I actually changed the fur cap colors from light blue to black after seeing some pictures on line with the light blue on the cap tops and sides. I then looked to give a lot of colorful detail in red, green, yellow, and blue as you’ll see below.

Then I varnished the group, assembled them, mounted them on the 2″ square steel bases, and flocked them.

Assembled.
Completed!

And now…

Eye Candy

There are 5 stands of 2 figures – 4 are similar and one is a command stand with a standard bearer and a bugler. The regimental commander goes on an MDF stand.

Regimental Commander Stand

Stand 1

Stand 2

Stand 3

Stand 4

Command Stand

Group shots

The LCR in line formation, moving into melee with the Regimental Commander base in the rear.
A higher angle photo of the previous formation.
An angled shot of the left side of the LCR moving up with the Regimental Commander in front.
The LCR ready to charge the enemy with impetus!

So now I have a complete Munchkin Brigade!

My Munchkin Brigade! Clockwise from the top left: Zoraster’s Guard Infantry, Colonel Tik-Tok’s Infantry Regiment, Zoraster and an unnamed wizard, the Light Cavalry Regiment, and the Medium Artillery Battery.

I will now move on to building my brigade of Winkies (basically the Orcs of Ozz). I am not sure how far I will get this year with Christmas coming plus some minor surgery for me right afterwards (oh yay). I am hoping to get at least one more unit done this month, then do a 2022 wrap up with my 2023 goals.

Again, as you may want to check out the figures range – there are two places to get them (and I make no money from this btw). The game rules and figures are available from the following two places:

In the US Old Glory has a site – Wars of Ozz Miniatures.

In the UK go to Sally 4th.

Thanks so very much for checking this post out and please let me know what you think in the comments section. I wish you all a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Still have more to come…

Miscellaneous details and references for those interested in that sort of thing:

For all of my previous posts on Wars of Ozz games, figures, units, and other related projects – please see this page.

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THIS MUNCHKIN LIGHT CAVALRY REGIMENT:

  1. Gorilla Glue
  2. Paper clip wire pieces
  3. 1 1/4″ x 1″ square steel bases from Wargames Accessories (#FOW1)
  4. Poster tack
  5. Vallejo Premium Primer “White”
  6. Vallejo “Flow Improver”
  7. Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
  8. Citadel “Nuln Oil” (wash)
  9. Vallejo Model Color “Wood Grain”
  10. Vallejo Model Color “White”
  11. Black Sharpie pen
  12. PS Model Color “British Brown Drab”
  13. Vallejo Model Air “Gun Metal”
  14. Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Matte Varnish”
  15. Vallejo Game Air “Sick Green”
  16. Vallejo Game Air “Electric Blue”
  17. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Hardened Leather”
  18. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Contrast Medium”
  19. Martha Stewart Crafts “Pale Bronze”
  20. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Ironjawz Yellow”
  21. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Gryph-Hound Orange”
  22. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Doomfire Magenta”
  23. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Luxion Purple”
  24. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Akhelian Green”
  25. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Pylar Glacier”
  26. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Nazdreg Yellow”
  27. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Magmadroth Flame”
  28. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Magos Purple”
  29. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Aethermatic Blue”
  30. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Terradon Turquoise”
  31. Battlefront “Black”
  32. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Basilicanum Grey”
  33. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Gore Grunta Fur”
  34. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Holy White”
  35. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Crusader Skin”
  36. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Grim Black”
  37. Army Painter “Flesh Wash” (wash/shade)
  38. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Baal Red”
  39. Model Air “Bright Brass”
  40. Vallejo Model Air “Steel”
  41. P3 “Midland Flesh”
  42. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Aggaros Dunes”
  43. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Dark Wood”
  44. Vallejo Game Ink “Yellow”
  45. Vallejo Game Ink “Black Green”
  46. Citadel “Cryptek Armourshade” (wash/shade)
  47. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Karandras Green”
  48. Elmer’s PVA Glue
  49. Regimental MDF base from Old Glory
  50. Army Painter “Battlefields Grass Green” (flocking)
  51. Army Painter “Battlefield Field Grass” (flocking)
  52. Army Painter “Battlefields Field Grass” (flocking)
  53. Army Painter “Brown Battleground” (flocking)
  54. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “6mm Dark Forest Dark Blue Tufts” (flocking)

Munchkin Medium Artillery Battery (Wars of Ozz)

Any Munchkin Brigade needs a good dose of heavy firepower to fend off the enemies of the Emerald City at long range. For my Munchkin Brigade for Wars of Ozz games, I finished off a Munchkin Medium Artillery Battery with Crew (OZZ107). Let’s call it MMAB.

In the game, the MMAB is the stronger of the two artillery choices (the other being a light battery). For comparison, a medium battery can fire at targets up to 24″, while a light battery range is out to 18″, with musket range being at max of 14″. In the game, firing at half ranges is more effective as one would think, and short range for the MMAB is 8″, while a light battery is 6″, and muskets are 7″. So this MMAB gives the brigade a bit of standoff firepower.

The artillery batteries in Wars of Ozz are composed of 5 figures plus a gun. For close combat, they are armed with carbines (which are slightly more than half of the range of muskets – but hopefully they don’t have to get into melee – but the odds are that they will!). While an infantry or cavalry regiment has 5 bases – each of which can take 4 hits – the battery can take 5 hits (one per figure). Each hit removes a figure and loses a die for attacking. The scale is 28mm and these figures are metal.

I started parallel-working on these while I worked on Colonel Tik-Tok’s Infantry Regiment back on November 25th. When I needed to let something dry, I did a little work on this unit. The gun with its carriage required assembly. With the carriage needing serial painting – so as to get the right bluish look per Ozz canon (pun intended – see how I did that!) – and the gun being pretty big, the parallel approach got it done without causing me impatience. I followed the same procedure as to painting these figures as I did with the previous units, by priming in white, then washing with a dark shade, then painting, highlighting, and shading.

A major consideration for me was how to paint up the cannon and carriage. First, there were undersides to the gun and carriage to consider for painting and assembly. Second, there were the choices of colors. I experimented with several blues and bluish craft metallics for the gun. Initially, I went with a classic grey gun metal look for the gun, but changed it to brass as I liked the look better. As Munchkins are being very fond of blue, I thought that was appropriate. As is my custom, I list all the paints I used on this unit at the end of this post for those interested in that sort of stuff (and for my own use for later reference as well). First, I’ll share some WIP shots, then some eye candy of the MMAB.

WIP shots…

As discussed, I started on November 25th. This was mainly preparatory work on filing, washing before priming. My main effort was the CTTIR during this time.

There is an MDF base available for artillery batteries with slots for the gun and figure – that even allows for removing casualties and for denoting if the gun is limbered or unlimbered. That needed assembly, so another thing to do while other things were drying. I also was thinking about transport and storage – so I added steel bases under the MDF ones for the artillerists and the gun.

Then, I slowly worked on painting the cannon and carriage components and assembled them by December 1st.

The cannon painted and varnished resting on its MDF base. Above, you can see how I traced so that I would be able to score the base under the tracings. This would get a better hold for gluing.

The figures came next, but unfortunately do not have any WIP shots of them. I followed Ozz canon (yes, I did that again) for the colors.

On December 4th, this brought me back to completing the magnetizing the unit for gaming, storage, and transport. My artillerist figures were mounted on 3/4″ steel washers. These would be glued to the MDF bases, which had 1/2″ steel squares glued to the their undersides as seen above. I drilled out 1/8″ holes in the center of each of the base’s recesses. Then, I glued another 1/2″ square steel base below the holes with 1/8″ neodymium magnets in each hole. In the end, the figures were removable from the base (but won’t fall out), and the base will store safely in my magnetic sheet-lined Really Useful Box with my other units. You can see this below in the photo.

By December 7th, I had the unit painted and was ready for final assembly and flocking.

December 7th progress

And…by December 9th I was done!

MMAB DONE!

How about some…

Eye Candy…

The unit can be shown as limbered (as above) or unlimbered as you can see below. A casualty is taken out on the right.

My favorite shot:

So now I am up to three units plus two Wizards. The Munchkin Light Cavalry is next. As you may want to check out the figures range – there are two places to get them (and I make no money from this btw). The game rules and figures are available from the following two places:

In the US Old Glory has a site – Wars of Ozz Miniatures.

In the UK go to Sally 4th.

Thanks for checking this post out and please let me know what you think in the comments section. Yes, I still have more to come…

Miscellaneous details and references for those interested in that sort of thing:

For all of my previous posts on Wars of Ozz games, figures, units, and other related projects – please see this page.

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THIS MUNCHKIN MEDIUM ARTILLERY BATTERY:

  1. Vallejo Premium Primer “White”
  2. Vallejo “Flow Improver”
  3. Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
  4. Gorilla Glue
  5. 1/2″ x 1/2″ square steel bases from Wargames Accessories (#16)
  6. MDF Artillery base from Wars of Ozz Miniatures
  7. 1/8″ neodymium magnets
  8. 3/4″ steel washers
  9. Poster tack
  10. Citadel “Nuln Oil” (wash)
  11. Vallejo Model Color “White”
  12. 1 1/4″ x 1″ square steel bases from Wargames Accessories (#FOW1)
  13. Elmer’s PVA Glue
  14. Vallejo Model Air “Gun Metal”
  15. Armory “Dark Blue”
  16. DecoArt “Peacock Pearl”
  17. Tamiya XF-6 “Copper”
  18. Vallejo Model Color “Dark Prussian Blue”
  19. Martha Stewart Crafts “Pale Bronze”
  20. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Dark Wood”
  21. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Contrast Medium”
  22. Army Painter “Blue Tone”
  23. Secret Weapon Washes “Golden Brown” (wash)
  24. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Crusader Skin”
  25. Citadel “Nuln Oil GLOSS” (wash/shade)
  26. Citadel “Cryptek Armourshade” (wash/shade)
  27. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Hardened Leather”
  28. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Grim Black”
  29. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Frostheart”
  30. Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Matte Varnish”
  31. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Baal Red”
  32. Vallejo Model Air “Bright Brass”
  33. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Bad Moon Yellow”
  34. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Karandras Green”
  35. Vallejo Model Air “Armour Brown”
  36. Vallejo Model Air “Steel”
  37. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Holy White”
  38. PS Model Color “British Brown Drab”
  39. Army Painter “Battlefields Grass Green” (flocking)
  40. Army Painter “Battlefield Field Grass” (flocking)
  41. Army Painter “Battlefields Field Grass” (flocking)
  42. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “6mm Dark Forest Dark Blue Tufts” (flocking)

Colonel Tik-Tok’s Infantry Regiment, Zoraster, and a Munchkin Mayor (Wars of Ozz)

I am continuing to build my Munchkin Brigade for Wars of Ozz games. In my last post, I shared OZZ-101 – Zoraster’s Guard Infantry Regiment (ZGIR).  This time I have built and painted up a different Munchkin infantry unit – Colonel Tik-Tok’s Infantry Regiment (hereafter referred to here as CTTIR). I also painted up Zoraster (a Wizard) and a Munchkin Mayor as a lesser Wizard.

In the game, the CTTIR is slightly less capable than the ZGIR, but still better than a militia or Landwehr unit. Like the ZGIR, the regiment is composed of 20 figures plus a mounted regimental commander. It is similarly armed with muskets while sporting cool carabiner helmets. In the canon of the Wars of Ozz, Zoraster is “the Wizard Supreme”, and is the creator the Munchkin Army. The Munchkin Mayor figure came with the Kickstarter and confused me for a bit as you’ll see in the discussion below. The scale is 28mm and these 23 figures are metal.

There are 4 figures per 2″ square base, so five bases plus a commander make up a regiment. 16 of the based figures are of the same type, while the fifth base has four different figures – two standard bearers (with the Ozz flag and the regimental colors), a drummer, and another leader figure. This “command” stand fights like the others, but has an aesthetic effect on the tabletop of being nice to see. The regimental commander has his own base and can have special attributes, but its stand never engages in combat. It exists mainly for the attributes tab (on its MDF base) and also aesthetics. If the regiment dies, so does he. There is magic in the game – and Zoraster is a designated Wizard. There are also “unnamed Wizards”, so I will likely use the Munchkin Mayor as one – or maybe just an objective marker.

I pretty much followed the same procedure as to painting these figures as I did with the ZGIR. I prime in white, then wash with a dark shade, then paint and highlight. If I need more shade or highlight, I add it.

A major difference here for me was how to paint up the helmets and officer hats. While Wars of Ozz canon has this regiment in white, it also has all Munchkins as being very fond of blue. But after looking at images of Napoleonic era carabiner helmets (below) I decided that I wanted a similar metallic brass and chrome look.

I also decided to give the officers white hats. I did give the drummer a bit of blue on the drum and of course the standards have a lot of blue, so I think I’m safe. For the regimental commander’s pony I went with a slightly sallow pastel yellow. One cool aspect of the universe of the Wars of Ozz game is the use of a lot of color (hence the pastel ponies and more). The rules say that for CTTIR the facings, plumes and epaulettes are red – and that the coats and vests are white. Here I used a lot of Army Painter “Holy White” Speed Paint mixed with Citadel “Contrast Medium”. In fact, I still mix all of my Speed Paints with that medium. The combination of using the Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash post-priming and then the Holy White helped a lot with the less-detailed recesses on the figures. As usual, I list all the paints I used on these at the end of this post for those interested in that sort of information.

As I did previously, I’ll share some WIP shots, then some eye candy of the regiment.

WIP shots…

I started on November 25th. Below, you see the figures are based for priming, primed, and then I added a Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash before moving on to painting them. I have not tried “slap chop”, but I do like this way of using contrast/speed paints as part of my technique.

I was confused (as my Kickstarter order was a while back) as to which figure was Zoraster. Eventually, I determined that the smaller one was a Munchkin mayor thrown into the Kickstarter and that I had mistakenly ordered 2 Zoraster figures! I’ll keep one unpainted for trade. The Munchkin figure looks like the Boston Celtics mascot.

Two Zoraster figures and the Munchkin mayor doffing hats…

During the next three days, I made decent progress. I ended up numbering the specimen bottle labels with mistakes and keeping a list so I could fix them – this helped a lot.

The figures were all painted less any varnish and flocking by December 2nd.

Then it was on to the varnishing the figures, adding the standards/colors, and thereafter flocking the bases. I noticed that when I cut out the standards from card stock that the edges stood out as white. So, to remedy this, I used a black Sharpie pen to color in the edges as the standards have a black edge as well.

As for flocking, this time I pre-flocked all of the regimental bases with one type of grass, then added the other two types after affixing two, then three, then the fourth figure to each base. It’s probably overkill but I do like how they have come out. For the two Wizards, I just went with the first two grasses and added Shadow’s Edge Miniatures blue forest tufts.

My three sequential grasses, clockwise from the left. The first two may be different iterations of a similar type, but they are different enough to give some texture and more depth to the bases.

By December 4th, the CTTIR was done, plus the wizards as well. Now onto some eye candy…

Eye Candy

Colonel Tik-Tok’s Infantry Regimental Commander

A look at 2 stands…

A look at the command stand…

A look at the whole regiment…

A look at Zoraster…

A look at the Munchkin Mayor (Lesser Wizard)…

Howdy folks!

I hope that this was interesting for you. I am hoping to take 7-10 days per regiment or battery until I get through the Kickstarter. This should take me into next year, but hopefully I can keep a good pace. I have plenty of space in the box for this in-progress brigade…

Munchkin Brigade to date…

As you may want to check out the figures range – there are two places to get them (and I make no money from this btw). The game rules and figures are available from the following two places:

In the US Old Glory has a site – Wars of Ozz Miniatures.

In the UK go to Sally 4th.

Thanks for checking this post out and please let me know what you think in the comments section. More to come…

Miscellaneous details and references for those interested in that sort of thing:

For all of my previous posts on Wars of Ozz games, figures, units, and other related projects – please see this page.

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THIS MUNCHKIN REGIMENT, ZORASTER, & THE MUNCHKIN MAYOR:

  1. Gorilla Glue
  2. Paper clip wire pieces
  3. 1/2″ x 1/2″ square steel bases from Wargames Accessories (#16)
  4. 3/4″ steel washers (wizards)
  5. Poster tack
  6. Vallejo Premium Primer “White”
  7. Vallejo “Flow Improver”
  8. Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
  9. Citadel “Nuln Oil” (wash)
  10. Vallejo Model Color “White”
  11. 1/2″ x 1/2″ square steel bases from Wargames Accessories (#FOW1)
  12. Vallejo Model Air “Gun Metal”
  13. Vallejo Model Air “Bright Brass”
  14. Vallejo Model Air “Chrome”
  15. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Dark Wood”
  16. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Contrast Medium”
  17. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Crusader Skin”
  18. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Baal Red”
  19. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Magmadroth Flame”
  20. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Grim Black”
  21. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Ironjawz Yellow”
  22. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Gore Grunta Fur”
  23. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Hardened Leather”
  24. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Karandras Green”
  25. Vallejo Model Air “Steel”
  26. Vallejo Model Air “Armour Brown”
  27. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Aggaros Dunes”
  28. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Pallid Bone”
  29. Army Painter “Red Tone”
  30. Citadel “Nuln Oil GLOSS” (wash/shade)
  31. Citadel “Cryptek Armourshade” (wash/shade)
  32. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Doomfire Magenta”
  33. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Nighthaunt Gloom”
  34. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Asurman Blue”
  35. Americana “Bahama Blue”
  36. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Pylar Glacier”
  37. Vallejo Model Color “Black”
  38. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Snakebite Leather”
  39. Citadel “Warpfiend Grey”
  40. Citadel “Longbeard Grey”
  41. Battlefront “Skin Shade”
  42. Battlefront “European Skin”
  43. P3 “Flesh Wash”
  44. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Holy White”
  45. Martha Stewart Crafts “Pale Bronze”
  46. Vallejo Mecha Color “Olive Green”
  47. Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Matte Varnish”
  48. PS Model Color “British Brown Drab”
  49. Black Sharpie pen
  50. Elmer’s PVA Glue
  51. Regimental MDF base from Old Glory
  52. Army Painter “Battlefields Grass Green” (flocking)
  53. Army Painter “Battlefield Field Grass” (flocking)
  54. Army Painter “Battlefields Field Grass” (flocking)
  55. Army Painter “Brown Battleground” (flocking)
  56. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “6mm Dark Forest Dark Blue Tufts” (flocking)
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