Tin Men Armed with Axes and Plasma Blasters and Games at HUZZAH 2026

Greetings wargamers and hobbyists! Yes, I do actually have a post for you that is not golf-related! It’s been a while as my last hobby post was back in March, and now its mid-June. Mea culpa, mea maxima culpa…but I do love golf so…and its summer…

In any case, back in April, I did actually paint up several regiments of Professor Nitpik’s Tin Men. I made these to use at the MHWA HUZZAH! convention in May up in South Portland, Maine. My total production was 80 figures in 5 regiments. As you might expect, painting up that quantity in a month took a lot of time – and that left blogging in the lurch.

I’ll be sharing each regiment below in turn, plus some shots of the HUZZAH! games that I ran in May. Of course, I’ll also share details of the paints, flocking, etc. that I used on the figures.

All of the Tin Men figures come from the Wars of Ozz website. All are 28mm in scale, and metal. The bases that I used are 2″ square for size reference. Five bases make up a regiment. Most of the Nitpik regiments come in sets of 20 figures. However, I only base two figures per base – so one SKU is good for two regiments of either the ones armed with axes or the ones wielding plasma blasters.

The exception would be the mini-swarm, which has 40 tiny robot/tinmen figures. Those I based 8 figures to a base.

So on to the Tin Men! The first up I’ll share is a regiment type that I previously completed in a red/gold theme and posted here. I finished that one in April 2025, and did not assign it a name other than “001”. I had another one to paint up in a different color. It is the 40-figure “OZZ-542, Mechanical Mini Swarm with pulse blasters”. I went with a blue and chrome look to differentiate the regiment from 001. I also gave this one a name instead of a number as Buck Surdu had been kind enough to provide me with personalized regimental battle flags to match my names. I also made the flagstaff’s top with a screw instead of a nut. He did that for all of these. The name I chose was “The Indigo Ironmongers”.

The Indigo Ironmongers

First, some WIP photos:

My flagstaff I made/sculpted.
An easy dark blue prime followed by pearlized blue paint.
Adding the chrome and gunmetal paints to the limbs and “faces”.
WIP close up. These are the larger robots.
These are the smaller ones. Very tiny.
Command stand WIP.
Based!

Here are some eye candy shots of the Indigo Ironmongers from a few differnt angles:

Next up are the two regiments of mechanical axemen. These are OZZ-511, “Professor Nitpik’s Mechanical Axe Army with Command“. I already had three previously painted axemen regiments that you can see here and here. The first of these is:

The Canary Clockmen

I just have 1 WIP shot below. Again, I went with pearlized paints, with an oily wash (seals must be bad!).

WIP shot.

Now some Canary Clockmen poses:

The other regiment is an orange-themed melee unit, also armed with axes.

Task Force Orange

Also just one WIP shot for these guys.

WIP – still used a pearlized look with a sooty/oily sheen.

And some group shots:

The other two regiments are armed with “plasma blasters”. They are OZZ-539, “Mechanical Men with Napalm Blasters”. The first one is magenta-themed:

The Tinseltown Terrors

WIP Shot.

And some poses:

The last regiment I painted up was also a plasma blaster regiment. This time lime green-themed:

The Viridian Veterans

WIP shot.

And some poses:

These 5 regiments were used in two of my Wars of Ozz games at HUZZAH. I also ran a retro sci-fi game using Combat Patrol rules and a What a Tanker game. Here are some game shots:

My first Ozz game was another iteration of “The Great Munchkin Heist“.

For the first time, the Munchkin players had really bad luck while the Nitpik/Mechanical Men side was very lucky. The coup de grace was the arrival of the Nitpik cavalry in relief – which arrived at the worst place for the Munchkins – in their rear. The cavalry got the initiative and quickly routed two Munchkin regiments and then an artillery battery, ending any Munchkin hopes. It was a major victory for the defending Tin Men.

Here are some game shots:

Brad waiting to play!
The finishing blow – Nitpik cavalry in your forces’ rears is never a good day.

In my next game, I brought out my retro sci-fi figures to simulate a Space Phraint revolt against their Warbot overseers led by Khang Robots. Also got some use of my Robo-servo guns and my Mark 1 Sphere tanks in the battle. Here are some game shots.

Check out the links above if you missed these older posts!

The Warbots barely did enough damage to win the battle, though not without casualties. Here are some game shots:

Liam moves up his tank and Warbots.
Bruce and Brad are happy gamers.

My second Ozz game simulated a revolt of the Harvest veggie folks against an intrusive walled Munchkin outpost. The theme of the 2026 HUZZAH! convention was “Revolution”. Harvest enlisted the help of Nitpik (apparently still aggrieved against the wee folk’s attempted robberies). The Nitpik and Harvest players successfully breached the Munchkin defenses and threw them out, though at a cost. Here are some game shots:

The players make their plans.
Eric ponders his defenses.
The Nitpik players prep for attack.
Harvest players are ready too.
The Savage Apple Tree regiment storms the walls while Munchkin Sharpshooters defend.
Munchkin musketry trims the trees.
Task Force Orange routs a defending Munchkin battery and breaches the walls as well.
Carrot Creatures go face-to-face with another Munchkin battery.

After the Veggie revolt game, I also ran another edition of my What a Tanker scenario for Operation Torch. I did not get any pictures, but one of my players, Arofan, did, and wrote a nice AAR that you can see on the Monadnock Historical Wargaming page https://www.facebook.com/groups/405278298850709. Scroll down to May 17th, 2026.

Thanks again to all at MHWA for yet another great convention!!

That’s it for now – and lastly here are the paints listings and Ozz information.

Final Notes and Informational Links

Want to learn more about Ozz and its world? If you want to check out the excellent Wars of Ozz figures’ range, there are two places to get them. You can also get the rules there. (I make no money from this.) The game rules and the figures are available from the next two places:

In the US Old Glory has a site – Wars of Ozz Miniatures.

In the UK go to Sally 4th.

And the new Wars of Ozz Supplement is available as a PDF download from the next two websites:

Thanks for looking at this post. Let me know your thoughts in the comments section – I’d love a converstion.

Did you have a favorite regiment?

Until next time…

Miscellaneous details and references for those interested in that sort of thing:

For my earlier posts on Wars of Ozz games, view this page. It includes figures, units, and other related projects.

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THE INDIGO IRONMONGER REGIMENT:

  1. Popsicle sticks
  2. Vallejo Surface Primer “Ultramarine Blue”
  3. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Blue”
  4. Aztec leftover wire spear
  5. Green stuff (kneadatite)
  6. Steel wood screw
  7. Vallejo Thinner
  8. Army Painter Warpaints “Gun Metal”
  9. Tamiya “Flat Aluminum XF16”
  10. Tamiya “Thinner X20A”
  11. Vallejo Model Air “Tire Black”
  12. Citadel “Auric Armour Gold”
  13. Vallejo Surface Primer “Grey”
  14. Army Painter Quickshades “Blue Tone” (wash/shade)
  15. Vallejo Mecha Weathering “Black Wash” (wash)
  16. PVA Glue
  17. Gorilla Glue
  18. Play sand (flocking)
  19. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  20. Vallejo Flow Improver
  21. Pendraken 12mm dice frames
  22. Army Painter Battlefront “Ash Grey” (flocking)
  23. Juweela 1:35 Debris
  24. Juweela Metal Scrap Rusty
  25. Juweela 1:35 Bricks
  26. Juweelinis “Diorama Mix” – various metal scrap, tires, bricks
  27. Army Painter “Red Tone” (wash)
  28. Secret Weapon Washes “Red Black” (wash)
  29. Secret Weapon Washes “Ruby” (wash)
  30. P3 “Red Ink” (ink)
  31. Vallejo Game Air “Red Terracotta”
  32. Vallejo “Carbon Black” (pigment)
  33. Vallejo “Light Slate Grey” (pigment)
  34. Vallejo “Titanium White” (pigment)
  35. Nitpik flag design from Wars of Ozz Facebook page (printed on card stock)
  36. Black Sharpie pen
  37. Brown Sharpie pen

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THE TWO AXEMEN REGIMENTS:

  1. Gorilla Glue
  2. PVA Glue
  3. Popsicle sticks
  4. 2″ Square War Games Accessories Steel Bases (21)
  5. Vallejo Surface Primer “Black”
  6. Vallejo Mecha Primer “White”
  7. Vallejo Thinner
  8. Tamiya “Orange X6”
  9. Createx Airbrush Colors “Pearl Tangerine”
  10. Vallejo “Metal Medium”
  11. Vallejo Thinner Medium
  12. Martha Stewart Crafts “Duckling”
  13. Army Painter “Gun Metal”
  14. Reaper MSP Core Colors “Blackened Brown”
  15. Reaper MSP Core Colors “Pure White”
  16. Vallejo Model Air “Bright Brass”
  17. Vallejo Model Air “Black Metallic”
  18. Tamiya “Flat Aluminum XF16”
  19. Tamiya “Thinner X20A”
  20. Turbo Dork “People Eater”
  21. Createx Airbrush Colors “High Performance Reducer”
  22. Createx Airbrush Colors “Pearl Red”
  23. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Orange”
  24. Citadel “Astrogranite” (texture)
  25. Citadel “Astrogranite Debris” (texture)
  26. Vallejo Model Air “Tire Black”
  27. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Blue”
  28. Army Painter Warpaints Fanatics Effects “Blue Flux” (effect)
  29. Citadel Contrast Paint “Moon Yellow”
  30. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Yellow”
  31. Citadel “Nuln Oil GLOSS” (wash/shade)
  32. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  33. Vallejo Flow Improver
  34. Pendraken 12mm dice frames
  35. Army Painter Battlefront “Ash Grey” (flocking)
  36. Juweela 1:35 Debris
  37. Juweela Metal Scrap Rusty
  38. Juweela 1:35 Bricks
  39. Juweelinis “Diorama Mix” – various metal scrap, tires, bricks
  40. Army Painter “Red Tone” (wash)
  41. Secret Weapon Washes “Red Black” (wash)
  42. Secret Weapon Washes “Ruby” (wash)
  43. P3 “Red Ink” (ink)
  44. Vallejo Game Air “Red Terracotta”
  45. Vallejo “Carbon Black” (pigment)
  46. Vallejo “Light Slate Grey” (pigment)
  47. Vallejo “Titanium White” (pigment)
  48. Nitpik flag design from Wars of Ozz Facebook page (printed on card stock)
  49. Black Sharpie pen
  50. Brown Sharpie pen

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THE TWO NAPALM BLASTER REGIMENTS:

  1. Popsicle sticks
  2. PVA Glue
  3. Vallejo Mecha Primer “White”
  4. Vallejo Thinner
  5. Craftsmart “Neon Pink”
  6. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Lime Green”
  7. Army Painter Warpaints Metallics “Gun Metal”
  8. Vallejo “Thinner Medium”
  9. Reaper MSP Core Colors “Blackened Brown”
  10. Vallejo Model Air “Bright Brass”
  11. Vallejo Model Air “Black Metallic”
  12. Vallejo Model Air “Tire Black”
  13. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Red”
  14. Tamiya “Flat Aluminum XF16”
  15. Tamiya “Thinner X20A”
  16. Citadel Contrast Paint “Moon Yellow”
  17. Army Painter Warpaints Fanatics Effects “Violet Volt” (effect)
  18. Americana “Bubblegum Pink”
  19. Turbo Dork “People Eater”
  20. Createx Airbrush Colors “High Performance Reducer”
  21. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Orange”
  22. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Yellow”
  23. Army Painter Warpaints Fanatics Effects “Blue Flux” (effect)
  24. 2″ Square War Games Accessories Steel Bases (21)
  25. Citadel “Astrogranite” (texture)
  26. Citadel “Astrogranite Debris” (texture)
  27. Citadel “Nuln Oil GLOSS” (wash/shade)
  28. Createx Airbrush Colors “Pearl Magenta”
  29. Citadel “Tesseract Glow” (TECHNICAL)
  30. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  31. Vallejo Flow Improver
  32. Pendraken 12mm dice frames
  33. Army Painter Battlefront “Ash Grey” (flocking)
  34. Juweela 1:35 Debris
  35. Juweela Metal Scrap Rusty
  36. Juweela 1:35 Bricks
  37. Juweelinis “Diorama Mix” – various metal scrap, tires, bricks
  38. Army Painter “Red Tone” (wash)
  39. Secret Weapon Washes “Red Black” (wash)
  40. Secret Weapon Washes “Ruby” (wash)
  41. P3 “Red Ink” (ink)
  42. Vallejo Game Air “Red Terracotta”
  43. Vallejo “Carbon Black” (pigment)
  44. Vallejo “Light Slate Grey” (pigment)
  45. Vallejo “Titanium White” (pigment)
  46. Nitpik flag design from Wars of Ozz Facebook page (printed on card stock)
  47. Black Sharpie pen
  48. Brown Sharpie pen

Highlights from the 2026 Toomey-Lovett Classic Tournament (Tour of the Brookfields)

On Saturday, June 13th, 2026, the 2026 Tour of the Brookfields held the Toomey-Lovett Classic at Quail Hollow Golf & Country Club in Oakham, MA. The weather was spectacular for golf and the course looked and played great.

Our longtime sponsor was Jim Lovett, who has supported the Tour of the Brookfields for many years – and we are very lucky to have had him suppporting us! This event was our biggest yet in 2026 – we had 95 players on 24 teams that were competing in three divisions. Unfortunately we did have one player no-show, but that team went on to compete well as a threesome. Kudos to their sportsmanship – John Markey, Brian Leveille, and Dennis Miner! As you’ll see, they came in a close third in their division.

So, let’s get to the results!

2026 Toomey-Lovett Classic Results

The three divisions were extremely competitive yet again. Two of the three divisions were decided by two strokes, and one by just one stroke. There were no playoffs.

Nicklaus Division

In the Nicklaus Division, the sponsor team of Ken Jurczyk, Gary Donlin, Jim Lovett, and Lynn Morin won with the best score of any team in the tournament. They shot an exceptional 12-under par! Two strokes back , in second place, were two teams at 10-under par:

  • Scott Fairbanks, Nelson Malin, Jay Gregory, and Chris Waugh
  • Matt Paakkonen, Bill Babineau, Ken Burnham, and Tina Burke

Player Division

In the Player Division, the team of Jim Kularski, Rich Johnson, Matt McLeod, and Patty Kularski delivered a great score of 9-under par to seize victory. In second place, the team of Mike Ellis, Bob DeMaio, David Burke, and Steve Saunders took second place with 7-under par.

Palmer Division

Finally, in the Palmer Division, the team of Amanda Pierce, Jake Malin, Johnny Wheeler, and Doug Brown came out on top with an excellent score of 10-under par. Close but just 1 stroke behind them was the team of Brian Lacroix, Beth McCann, Doug Judd, and Jim Parker.

Skins and Closest to the Pin on the 17th Hole

As usual, we also ran a skins contest within each division. There were 13 total skins awarded: four in the Nicklaus Division, five in the Player Division, and a four in the Palmer Division. The winners are as shown on the consolidated list below.

Jamie McShera was the winner of the closest to the pin contest at 9′ 6″.

Big Congrats again to the winners and thanks to all the players!

The Next Tournament and Some Notes

Special thanks once again to Jim Lovett for his longtime and dedicated sponsorship of this event.

Also, as always, a special thank you to Carl Fitz, Colleen Fitz, Matt Paakkonen, and all the staff at Quail Hollow who work so hard to make the Tour of the Brookfields possible.

THE NEXT EVENT IS JULY 11th. SIGN UP BY JULY 5TH!

The next tournament is on Saturday, July 11th at Quail Hollow. It will be the 308 Lakeside Open – another very-highly attended event at Quail Hollow. The signups for this event will close on Sunday, July 5th.

Sign ups will be coming down on July 5th or when we are full, which ever comes FIRST!

That usually happens VERY QUICKLY and we expect the event to fill up!

If you want in, sign up early at Still Harts, at Quail Hollow, or on the Tour of the Brookfields Facebook page! When its full, its full!

A FEW REQUESTS:

First, thanks everyone for being timely in arriving. It helps us to get going much faster, please keep that going!

Second, if you want to sign up, PLEASE use one of the three sign up opportunities (Still Harts, at Quail Hollow, or on the event section of the Tour of the Brookfields Facebook page).

Texts do sometimes get lost or buried…so please use the lists!

If you sign up and have to drop, please try to let us know by the Tuesday before the event. After we make teams when someone drops and that person could have let us know before we picked teams – well, that is a completely avoidable pain for the committee. I do try to post a list on Facebook of who has signed up right before we take the signups down. That way, folks can be reminded and helps to verify the list. PLEASE sign up early!

Remember, to qualify for the FINALS you need to play in at least three of the 6 regular season events. Just 3 events are left to play in before the FINALS – so plan accordingly!

Lastly, I managed to take a few photos:

A Few Photos:

Thanks again to all the players and we will see you soon.

REMEMBER – all updates on the results of our events can be found here on this blog throughout the year leading up to the FINALS!

2026 Still Harts Open: Official Results and Highlights (Tour of the Brookfields)

The 2026 Tour of the Brookfields May event – The Still Harts Open – is in the books!

This TOB event at Quail Hollow Golf & Country Club in Oakham, MA was held on the chilly morning of Saturday, May 23rd, 2026. At least we had no rain.

Our longtime sponsor was Still Harts Cafe in North Brookfield, MA. We had 92 players on 23 teams that were competing in three divisions.

2026 Still Harts Open Results

The three divisions were extremely competitive, with no division being won by more than 3 strokes. In two of the three divisions, we had playoffs. In the Player Division, 4 teams vied in a playoff. Meanwhile, in the Palmer Division, 2 teams fought it out for the win.

Let’s get to the results.

Nicklaus Division

In the Nicklaus Division, the team of Scott Fairbanks, Bob DeMaio, Brian Chaffee, and Susan Benoit won with an astounding score of 13-under par! This was the best score for any team in the entire tournament. In second place in the Nicklaus Division at 10-under par was the team of Ryan Toomey, Dave Russell, Rob Peterson, and Sherri Peterson.

Player Division

In the Player Division, we had an unbelievably competitive race up and down the standings. Of the 7 teams, all were in three strokes of each other. To top THAT off, 4 of the 7 came in tied at 8-under par and had to playoff for the honor of being the top team in the Player Division. The team that finally rose to the top was the team of Brandon McEvoy, Lisa Kularski, Tom Korzec, and Barbara Orszulak. In second place, the other three teams in the playoff were:

  • Fran Lamothe, Kevin Kokansky, Jeff McLeod, and Mike McCarthy
  • Tom Savage, Dave Fiske, Nancy Shores, and Greg Wypych
  • Matt Desimone, Kristen Depasse, Denis Miner, and Joseph Pinto

Palmer Division

Here again, we had tight match leading to a playoff. Two teams finished their 18-holes at 6-under par. Both had to battle it out in a playoff for the bragging rights of top team in the Palmer Division. Rising to victory was the team of Brian Lacroix, Bill Gaudette, Johnny Wheeler, and Paul Wyman. They edged out a close two-hole playoff victory over the Still Harts sponsor team of Steve Doros, Ed McLeod, Paul Sanborn, and George Fiske.

Skins and Closest to the Pin on the 17th Hole

As usual, we also ran a skins contest within each division. There were 14 total skins awarded: four in the Nicklaus Division, three in the Player Division, and a whooping seven in the Palmer Division. The winners are as shown on the consolidated list below.

Ryan Toomey was the winner of the closest to the pin contest at 2′ 3″.

Big Congrats again to the winners and thanks to all the players!

The Next Tournament and Some Notes

Special thanks again to Still Harts for their longtime and dedicated sponsorship of this event.

Also, as always, a special thank you to Carl Fitz, Matt Paakkonen, and all the staff at Quail Hollow who work so hard to make the Tour of the Brookfields possible.

VERY IMPORTANT!!! THE NEXT EVENT IS COMING UP QUICKLY!

The next tournament is on Saturday, June 13th at Quail Hollow. It will be the Toomey-Lovett Classic Open – another very-highly attended event. It will be held at Quail Hollow. The signups for this event will close on Sunday, June 7th – so we only have a VERY SHORT window for signups.

Sign ups will be coming down on JUNE 7th or when we are full, which ever comes FIRST!

That usually happens VERY QUICKLY and we expect the event to fill up!

If you want in, sign up early at Still Harts, at Quail Hollow, or on the Tour of the Brookfields Facebook page! When its full, its full!

A FEW REQUESTS:

First, thanks everyone for being timely in arriving. It helps us to get going much faster, please keep that going!

Second, if you want to sign up, PLEASE use one of the three sign up opportunities (Still Harts, at Quail Hollow, or on the event section of the Tour of the Brookfields Facebook page). Texts do sometimes get lost or buried…so please use the lists.

Also, I do try to post on Facebook who has signed up right before we take the signups down. That way, folks can be reminded and helps to verify the list. Despite my doing that we still had a couple of players miss the deadline – so sign up early!

Remember, to qualify for the FINALS you need to play in at least three of the 6 regular season events. Just 4 events are left to play in before the FINALS – so plan accordingly!

PLEASE – if you sign up and subsequently need to drop, make sure you do so before the sign up cutoff. After we make teams when someone drops and that person could have let us know before we picked teams – well, that is a completely avoidable pain in the…you know what…

I managed a few photos and a video this time. No award will be given for my narration! The video can be seen here on Instagram:

A Few Photos:

Thanks again to all the players and we will see you soon.

REMEMBER – all updates on the results of our events can be found here on this blog throughout the year leading up to the FINALS!

2026 Tour of the Brookfields: Techo Bloc Open Results

Welcome to the 2026 season of the Tour of the Brookfields! Updates on the results of our events can be found here on this blog throughout the year leading up to the FINALS!

The results from the first regular season TOB event at Quail Hollow Golf & Country Club in Oakham, MA are in. It was held on the brisk morning of Saturday, April 25th, 2026. No rain impeded our play. Our sponsor was Techo Bloc, hence the Techo Bloc Open. We had 88 players on 22 teams in three divisions.

We had several new players – and some returning veterans of years past – and welcome to all of you! There are five more regular season TOB’s before the FINALS. All are at Quail Hollow Golf & Country Club. Here is the schedule for 2026:

Now, let’s get to the results from Saturday.

2026 Techo Bloc Open Results

The three divisions/flights were extremely competitive. No flight was won by more than 2 strokes. There were some excellent scores this time – and several teams in each division had a shot at winning. There were no playoffs.

Nicklaus Division

In the Nicklaus Division, the team of Jacob McDonald, Paul Boulette, Jay Gregory, and Nancy Shores won with a great score of 9-under par! Every shot was needed because hot on their heels were three teams at -8. Those teams in second place in the Nicklaus Division were:

  • Scott Fairbanks, Mike Kularski, Russ Emerson, and Dick Whippee
  • Gary Soltys, Rich Ford, Sr., Brian Leveille, and Diane Kenyon
  • Rick Lindsten, Jake Malin, Hoss Ford, and Jim Parker

Player Division

In the Player Division, the team of Mike Ellis, Ron McCann, Clayton Rice, and Greg Wypych garnered top honors at 7-under par. In second place, two strokes back, were two teams at -5:

  • Sean Carter, Dave Fiske, Doug Judd, and Sam Patchen
  • Jim Wilson, Ed Erickson, Tony Woodman, and Chris Waugh

Palmer Division

In the Palmer Division, the team of Mark Shores, Will Foley, Jared Danitis, and Mark Bruso team also won by a narrow 1-stroke victory. Their -9 gained the victory over the TechoBloc sponsor team of Brian Egan, Connor Hibbard, Keith Drolet, and Leo Egan, who shot -8.

Skins and Closest to the Pin on the 17th Hole

We also ran a skins contest within each division. There were 13 total skins awarded – 4 each in the Nicklaus and Player Divisions, and 5 in the Palmer Division. The winners are as shown on the consolidated list below.

Dave Fiske was the winner of the closest to the pin contest at 4′ 7″.

Below are the consolidated results from the event

Big Congrats again to the winners and thanks to all the players!

The Next Tournament and Some Notes

Special thanks again to Techo Bloc or their sponsorship of this event.

Also, as always, a special thank you to Carl Fitz, Matt Pakonen, and all the staff at Quail Hollow who work so hard to make the Tour of the Brookfields possible.

IMPORTANT!!!

The next tournament is on Saturday, May 23rd at Quail Hollow. It will be the Still Harts Open – a very-highly attended event. The sponsor is of course Still Harts Cafe in North Brookfield, MA. It will be held at Quail Hollow.

Sign ups will be coming down on May 17th or when we are full, which ever comes FIRST!

That usually happens VERY QUICKLY and we expect the event to fill up!

If you want in, sign up early at Still Harts, at Quail Hollow, or on the Tour of the Brookfields Facebook page! When its full, its full!

NOTE – REGISTRATION IS EARLIER GOING FORWARD!!!

Registration and time to show up the Still Harts event and all future ones (except the FINALS) will be earlier as we do not expect any more potential frost delays. REGISTRATION OPENS AT 7:00 AM! PLEASE ARRIVE AND REGISTER BY 7:30 AM at the latest.

A FEW REQUESTS:

First, thanks everyone for being timely in arriving. It helps us to get going much faster, please keep that up – especially for the Still Harts Open!

Second, if you want to sign up, PLEASE use one of the three sign up opportunities (Still Harts, at Quail Hollow, or on the event section of the Tour of the Brookfields Facebook page). Texts do sometimes get lost or buried…so please use the lists.

If you sign up and need to drop, make sure you do so before the sign up cutoff.

Lastly, if you write your name down on the closest to the pin list, MAKE SURE WE CAN READ IT AND THE DISTANCE! If we cannot read it, well…you might lose out…

Thanks again to all the players and we will see you soon.

A Few Photos:

Matt chats with Hoss at the bar.
Lynn and Bill hone their putting game on the practice green.
Jim McKeon, Leo Egan, Rich Ford, and Paul Boulette catch up after a long off-season.
Paul Boulette and Jeff McLeod.
Norm Laliberte and Beth McCann.
Rich Casault, Sam Patchen, and Jason McCarthy.
Dave Russell, Tom Orszulak, and Rich Johnson.
A happy trio – Tony Woodman, Clayton Rice, and Ron McCann.
Lots of action on the practice green.
Nicklaus Division scoring. Skins are circled and highlighted.
Player Division scoring. Skins are circled and highlighted.

Palmer Division scoring. Skins are circled and highlighted.

This blog is your source for all of the TOB results and information.

You can get these updates automatically by becoming an email subscriber to this blog (you can do down at the end of this blog post). You can also comment on my posts if you like.

The cost – nothing! It’s free!

Lastly, this blog also covers my “other” hobbies, so you might see other” stuff from time to time…

A Special note to my Wargame/Miniature blog followers…

Wargame and hobby “Stuff” is coming to this blog soon – interspersed with golf stuff – Mechanical Men are soon to arrive here – stay tuned and enjoy!

Coming soon to Wars of Ozz…

2026 exciting changes and additions for the Tour of the Brookfields!

A brief post on 2026 changes!

As I mentioned on our Facebook page, we have a few changes that we hope will make people excited to play in more of the TOB events.

While the minimum number of events to qualify to play in the finals is still three out of the six, by playing in more you will have a chance at winning a big prize!

We will have a drawing for two winners at the draft night for the FINALS in September. What will be the prizes?

One player will be drawn and win $100 out of tickets for those who played in four events.

Another player will be drawn from those who played in 5 or 6 events and get a FREE ENTRY INTO THE FINALS!

So how do you qualify?

If you play in four events you will qualify for the $100 drawing with one entry!

If you play in five events, you will have two entries into the raffle for both of the prizes. If you play in all six events, you’ll get three tickets into the raffle for both of the prizes.

So there’s no reason to stop at three events!

If for some reason, we have to cancel an event and we end up with fewer than six events we will adjust those numbers accordingly.

The sign-up sheets for the next event which is Saturday April 25 are up at Still Harts in North Brookfield and on the Facebook page for The Tour of the Brookfields. A sign-up sheet will be at Quail Hollow when they open.

Sign up for the first event by April 19! See you all soon!

TotalCon 2026: Gaming Events and Highlights You Can’t Miss

TotalCon 40 is an annual gaming convention that is held in Marlborough, MA at the Best Western Conference Center. There are events for miniature games, board games, RPG’s, and much more. Attendance is well over 1,000.

This year it was held between February 19th and 22nd of 2026. I usually run several tabletop miniatures games there. This year was no exception. I ran eight 4-hour games across the 4 days.

Several players who participated in my games are eager to see some game shots. Not to disappoint, his post will be picture heavy and text light!

On Thursday of every TotalCon, there is a large flea market in an adjoining room to the main hall. From Friday to Sunday, I get a very big table in that room. Because of the flea market’s need for space, I settle for a smaller footprint on Thursday. That smaller table was fine for two games (afternoon and evening).

Battle for the Pond

This was a Combat Patrol:WWII retro sci-fi game using the pond that I described in my last post.

My game flyer.
The tabletop set up for action. The F.R.O.G. Commandos are on the near side, with the Star Ducks on the far end. The Star Ducks are Archive Miniatures Star Rovers figures from the late ’70’s/early 80’s. The Frogs are Critter Commandos figures from the early 1990’s.
The Star Duck players move up.
The Star Ducks use one of their two jet pack moves to occupy islands. In the game, control of the smaller islands was worth 5 points. Controlling the largest island earned players 10 points.
The Frogs were also jet packing. The Star Ducks used mortars to lay down a protective smoke screen against their automatic weapons fire.
In the end, the luck of the cards deserted the Frogs, with almost every island in Star Duck control.

High Noon at the Cyber Ruins

I ran this Combat Patrol retro sci-fi game at Cold Wars, but on a bigger table. I used a different mat and adapted the game to a smaller footprint.

Game flyer.

To win the game, both sides get credit (victory points) for inflicting enemy casualties and finding hidden ancient robots.

The game was definitely full!
Retrovians and Space Cowboys move into the ruined city.
The Space Cowboys find a robot (an Archive Robot Cook) and get it to join their side.
Reinforcements arrive! Here come the Space Roos.
Retrovians take cover under fire while trying to clear the walls.
Retrovian infantry move into the city.

In the end, the casualties on both sides were high. But, the Space Cowboys possession of robots allowed them a narrow 15-10 victory. That wrapped up Thursday’s games.

I decided not to run a Friday morning game this year. Last year, resetting the flea market room took too much time. It interfered with my morning game setup. Instead, I had plenty of time to move everything into the “big room” and set up on the “big table”. My first game was a Wars of Ozz game. It was titled “The Great Munchkin Heist”. I had also run it at Cold Wars. This time I had an even bigger table than I had there!

The Great Munchkin Heist

The game set up – I loved creating this panoramic expanse!
Players arrive – once again demand to play was high!
1st Munchkin Brigade set up
That’s a full game!
Nitpik’s “Morin’s Monsters” armed with napalm blasters hope to cook up some Great Pumpkinheads.
A regiment of Great Owls (Munchkin allies) overflies the Lemon Drop Legionnaires and hits them in the rear!
Jinjur regiments (female pirates and Munchkin allies) breach the wall.
The Munchkins breach the western gate and their light cavalry pours through to look for technological treasures.
In the center, two axe-wielding Nitpik regiments have had enough of the Munchkins. The Jade Automata and the Pink Nightmare regiments charge over their defensive wall. Their counterattack wipes out the Munchkin artillery and drives two Munchkin infantry regiments from the game.
Another view of that mechanical counterattack.
Meanwhile, the cleaver Jinjur pirates locate some of Nitpik’s technological wonders in a wrecked building.

The game ended – in a dead tie 23-23! A real nail-biter to be sure!

The next game builds on this one. The Munchkins have found technology, but welshed on their agreement to share! Thus, they betrayed their allies. As a result, their former allies have jumped over to the Nitpik side. The Munchkins are fleeing to safety, with Nitpik in hot pursuit.

Revenge of the Tin Men

Another big game! The players plan.
The Munchkins have 4 heavy crates of technology carried by 4 regiments. The crates slow down the Munchkins. The little folk need to cross a line with the crates safely to gain victory points. Additionally, each Munchkin base that escapes the Nitpik pursuers gets a point. Nitpik gets points for recovering crates and for eliminating Munchkin bases. The Munchkins have set up a delaying picket line of light cavalry and sharpshooters between the two balloons. This is to give those fleeing a chance to escape the Nitpik and allied horde.
On the right, the Munchkin picket line. On the left, the pursuers!
There were many Nitpik pursuers. This included those who switched alliances, like Frost Ogres, Great Pumpkinheads, and Jinjur pirates. Traffic control became a challenge as they tried to catch the Munchkins.
The pursuers coordinate their movements.
The Munchkin Aerostat frustrated several Nitpik regiments. As they tried to advance, the Aerostat laid down effective disruptive musketry on the mechanical men.
Nitpik cavalry broke through and tried to run the Munchkins down. Several crates were lost as the Munchkins routed in disarray.
The game ended with this scene showing Sam disappointed. The Munchkins nearly won the game. Her unit only needed 1 more inch to cross the line of the crater with the crate. So close! (well played though Sam!!) In the end, Nitpik won a VERY narrow 12-10 victory.

That wrapped up Friday night. The next game would happen Saturday morning set in North Africa.

Il Duce’s Desert Gamble

This what-if modified What a Tanker scenario also filled up quickly as well.

Vichy French armor facing the Italians.
Royal Italian Army armor facing the French.
The players plot their moves.
An Italian Macchi C.202 Folgore (Italian “thunderbolt”) dogfights a Vichy Dewoitine D.520.
Leif smiles as he records temporary damage on his tank. The damage was caused by Leif’s very bad dice rolling for a very old and worn out French FT-17!
A Vichy SOMUA S35 knocks out an Italian Semovente 90/53.
French forces advance.

The game ended with Vichy winning 540-440.

For Saturday afternoon, I ran Operation Torch: Vichy Mounts an Armored Counterattack. This was also a modified What a Tanker game.

Operation Torch: Vichy Mounts an Armored Counterattack

The Vichy players plan their assault.
The American players are ready!
The Americans watch as the Vichy French get closer. They have plans of getting air cover and naval gunfire on the French!
Knowing this, the French spread out to avoid massing a big target.
Mal considers his next move.
Aircraft are deployed, but the US Navy rules the skies. This allows for the Avenger to call in naval gunfire from the USS Savannah. This destroys multiple Vichy vehicles.

The US air superiority and naval gunfire carried the day – with the US winning a significant victory.

RETROVIANS MUST BE CLEANSED

Saturday night’s game was upon me, and I had decided to run another Combat Patrol retro sci-fi game. This time, the Retrovians would face the Archive Star Rovers Warbots. They would also confront my own creation – the Mark 1 Sphere tank.

Happy Gamers at the start! Retrovians are on the left, Warbots on the right.
A Retrovian Bra’sheer tripod moves out front of its infantry. The Mark 1 takes up a supporting position as the Warbots march forward to glory.
The Mark 1 safely delivers machine gun fire from its sponsons. Meanwhile, the Warbots also take fire and are stunned.

I did not take many pictures of this game. I do believe that the Warbots wore down the Retrovians. Yes, they were “cleansed”. It was nice to see these figures back on the tabletop.

This was the penultimate game for me of TotalCon 2026. I headed off to my room. I was ready for the 2026 TotalCon “Tournament of Ozz” on Sunday morning.

I had 7 out of a possible 8 players. At random, one player got a “bye” in round one. The match-ups were done at random and 7 different 21-point brigades were assigned at random. Inflicting the most damage on the enemy was the victory condition to move forward in the tournament. Tie breakers were also in play if that was needed.

Glory on the Line!

In Round 1 – the match ups were:

  • Impkins (Ken) versus Munchkins (Eric)
  • Munchkins (Bob) versus Gillikins (Dave)
  • Winkies (Brad) versus Gillikins (Jacob)
  • Winkies (Leif) got the round 1 bye
Round 1 begins!
Brad’s Winkies devastate Jacob’s Gillikins
Bob’s Munchkins get into a shooting match with Dave’s Gillikins.
Round 1 winds down.

The Round 1 results were:

  • Impkins (Ken) defeated Munchkins (Eric)
  • Munchkins (Bob) defeated Gillikins (Dave)
  • Winkies (Brad) defeated Gillikins (Jacob)
  • Winkies (Leif) got the round 1 bye

Yielding the semifinals as:

  • Impkins (Ken) versus Winkies (Brad)
  • Munchkins (Bob) versus Winkies (Leif)
The semi-finalists!
Leif casts a poppies spell to thwart Bob’s cavalry,
Bob’s Munchkins prepare to unleash musketry on Leif’s Winkie Guard. They would rout!
Meanwhile, Ken’s Impkins got hit hard by Brad’s Winkies.

The Round 2 (semifinals) results were:

  • Winkies (Brad) defeats Impkins (Ken)
  • Munchkins (Bob) defeats Winkies (Leif)

Yielding the FINALS as:

  • Munchkins (Bob) versus Winkies (Brad)
Brad and Bob get ready to rumble!

In the end, Brad outlasted Bob – though it was close! Congratulations to Brad as the 2026 TotalCon Wars of Ozz Champion! Congrats to Brad!

The 2026 runner up Bob, the 2026 champion Brad, and your happy GM.

Thank you to all who helped me at the convention. Special thanks to Leif and Brad.

I also want to extend a very special thanks to Bryan Clauss, Steve Parenteau, Kevin Baumann, and the entire TotalCon staff. They do a magnificent job running a great convention! BIG THANKS!!

Lastly, a few areas that you can check out if you dare:

References:

For a consolidated list of links for any of my previous convention/club/game battle report blog posts, please see this page: https://markamorin.com/club-convention-games/

For a consolidated list of links for any of my previous Wars of Ozz posts, please see this page: https://markamorin.com/miniatures/wars-of-ozz/

For a consolidated list of links for any of my previous sci-fi/retro sci-fi posts, please see this page: https://markamorin.com/sci-fi-retro-sci-fi-projects/

Building a Scenic Pond for Tabletop Battles

TotalCon 40 was held in Marlborough, MA in February 2026. I ran 8 games there. I envisioned one of them as a battle between Archive Miniatures Star Ducks (from Star Rovers) and F.R.O.G. Critter Commandos. What would they fight over?

Yes, a pond!

Not just any pond, but one they both claimed as part of their cultural and historical heritage. I would run the game with Buck Surdu’s Combat Patrol: WWII rules modified for retro sci-fi skirmish.

With that said, I needed a suitable pond for the tabletop. I did not have a lot of time to build it. The period from the end of Cold Wars on February 8th to the start of TotalCon on February 19th was short. It did not allow for much preparation.

This is the story of that pond build! There are a lot of WIP shots. Additionally, you will find a few videos. They will give you a better flavor of the project.

My flyer for the game – now I needed a pond!

Like most of my projects, I think a good deal about it, design it and plan it, then get it done. I wanted the pond to be big enough to really be a spectacle on the tabletop – and to be very functional for a game.

I sketched out a concept on February 9th – the pond would have several islands for the players to fight to control. Additionally, I needed to have a plan to use Vallejo “Still Water” on the pond. Those initial design concerns that I had were:

  1. Dealing with the effective application depth of “Still Water”. The depth is supposed to be less than 3mm per application. How would I make that work?
  2. What type of pond “structure” would hold the “Still Water”?
  3. I read online that “Still Water” could be acidic and/or destructive to acrylic paint, even a primer. I did not want to get to a stage in the project where I needed to restart or acquire more supplies. How could I deal with this issue?
  4. How could I build island structures onto the pond and how could I integrate them into it?

As is my habit, I got out the graph paper and drew an initial concept with 6 islands. I did end up building 8 islands in the end. The size I wanted was approximately 36″ x 24″.

Initial design drawing of the pond as it would sit on a 6′ x 10′ tabletop on February 9th.

I chose to use foam board as the base. However, the foam board from Michael’s is 30″ x 20″. I added extra pieces of foam board to augment the base. I hot-glued them to the main board as you see below.

The foam board with the extra pieces before gluing.

Once the glue had cooled, I shaped the base irregularly with an Exacto knife.

At this point, the base would not have a lot of strength in resisting any shearing forces. To solve that, I hot-glued thin polystyrene sheets to the base to conform to its shape. These sheets would be on the bottom of the terrain piece.

The base showing the polystyrene sheets hot-glued to the bottom.

Once that cooled, I flipped it over. I cut out pieces of foam board and made 8 islands of different sizes. As the foam board thickness is .47 cm, I believed that they would not get inundated by any of the “Still Water” later on. They did act usefully as guides to depth application, helping to deal with concern #1. These were hot glued to the base.

Islands affixed to the base.

Regarding concern #2, I decided to go with Apoxie Sculpt to build around the islands and to make the pond’s edge. Once cured, I had my basic structure to hold the pond.

Early edging around the pond.
After all the Apoxie Sculpt was applied by February 10th. Note the entire base is covered except for the islands.

I did not want any white edges to show underneath the terrain piece. So, I flipped it over and primed the bottom edges brown.

Priming the bottom.

I flipped it over again so that it rested normally on its bottom. Concern #3 still loomed. My solution was to mix equal parts of wood glue and primer and paint the piece with that slurry. I used four different primers and the glue to paint the pond bottom and island edges. This helped to create a shoreline to depth look. Then I flocked the pond’s edge with Woodland Scenics blended turf and the wood glue.

My mixing supplies to seal the pond base.

The primed structure is shown below. I hoped that this would work and protect against the “Still Water”.

Apoxie sculpt painted with the primers and wood glue mix – on February 11th.

Once it all dried, I reapplied a coating of wood glue over the pond’s edge flocking. This helped to harden it up. It also kept loose flocking from contaminating the future water surface. I then added all-purpose sand to the islands with the wood glue. I let that dry before I extensively vacuumed the surface and edges of the pond. This was to remove all loose materials, again to protect the water.

Applying the sand and extra wood glue.
And more drying time!
The islands sand is dry here on February 14th – and the edges would continue to darken (thankfully).

It was time to apply the cattails into the base. Luckily, it was easy to use an awl to punch holes through the Apoxie Sculpt and into the foam core board underneath. I did that, and used more wood glue to secure the cattails. Then I had more drying time to wait out…

Cattails inserted.
Close up of the cattails in the base.

The sand on the islands dried and was ready for adding pigments, so I did that. Meanwhile, I washed my plastic foliage for the islands. This removes any residual oils. This step allows me to throw some brown ink on them as a wash to add realism and some depth.

Pigments added and drying on February 14th..

Here is a short video showing my progress at this stage on Valentine’s Day:

It was time to add the foliage to the pond – as I wanted the water to be added close to the end. The process of adding the foliage was the same as adding the cattails, except that I needed to also go through the sand.

February 15th – foliage added, short view angle…
…and long angle.

Finally, it was time for the “Still Water”! I mixed it with two different inks. I continued mixing until I got the color that I wanted for a somewhat swampy pond (shown on list at the end of the post). The pond took two full 200 ml bottles of “Still Water” (not including ink). To maneuver it evenly around the pond without swamping the islands was like the ball maze game where you try to get a ball to fall in a hole on a table. Until it dried I was a bit anxious.

Setting up on February 15th!

Concerns #3 and #4 dealt with!

The slow set up of the “Still Water”.

You can see in the next video from February 16th that I needed to ball-maze-move the “Still Water” around. I did this for a while before it finally set. I did look out for bubbles as well and popped the ones I saw.

I did not use the lily pads that you saw in the video. When I tried to drill out to place them, the water surface gripped the bit. It started to torque a bit, so that was a no-go. Besides, these lily pads are basically wound wire and come apart when you try to clip them shorter. Instead, I went with adding some other swampy tufts from Green Stuff World.

Once this set up on February 17th, I was very happy with the result.

I now needed a box to transport this big piece! Luckily, I had earlier ordered a large rotating cutting mat from Amazon and saved the box that it came in. I used some foam board and hot glue to make a decent travel box that would protect the pond on the way to conventions.

February 17th – got a box!
And it fits!

I will be posting about TotalCon soon. Before doing that, I wanted to write this WIP post about the pond. From concept to travel box it took 8 days!

Hopefully, the lessons I shared here will help you if you are considering a similar project. My main takeaways are clear (I hope!).

Below I will list the materials I used in the project as well as some links that you might want to explore, but first a sneak preview of what the pond looked like on the tabletop on a 6′ x 4′ mat:

Next up, hopefully, will be a TotalCon 2026 recap.

References:

Check these out!

For a consolidated list of links for any of my previous scratch-building blog posts, please see this page: https://markamorin.com/scratch-building-projects/

For a consolidated list of links for any of my previous terrain project posts, please see this page: https://markamorin.com/terrain-projects/

For a consolidated list of links for any of my previous sci-fi/retro sci-fi posts, please see this page: https://markamorin.com/sci-fi-retro-sci-fi-projects/

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THIS POND:

  1. Foam Board – 20″ x 30″ x 3/16″ (50.8 cm x 76.2 cm x 0.47 cm)
  2. Sibe-R Plastic Supply℠ (10 Pack) .030″ X 8.5″ X 11″ White Styrene Sheets
  3. Hot Glue
  4. Apoxie Sculpt “White/Stone White”
  5. Titebond Wood Glue
  6. Citadel “Ryza Rust” (Dry)
  7. Vallejo Surface Primer “German Green Brown”
  8. Vallejo Surface Primer “Russian Green”
  9. Vallejo Primers “USA Olive Drab”
  10. Vallejo Primers “NATO Green”
  11. PVA Glue
  12. Gorilla Glue
  13. Vallejo Surface Primer “German Green Brown”
  14. Vallejo “Natural Umber” (pigment)
  15. Vallejo Surface Primer “Leather Brown”
  16. Woodland Scenics “Blended Turf”
  17. AK Terrains Muddy Ground Acrylic Diorama
  18. AK Terrains Wet Ground Acrylic Diorama
  19. All-purpose sand
  20. JTT “Cattails”
  21. Vallejo “Burnt Umber” (pigment)
  22. Vallejo “Natural Umber” (pigment)
  23. Vallejo “Light Sienna” (pigment)
  24. Vallejo “Natural Sienna” (pigment)
  25. Vallejo “Faded Olive Green” (pigment)
  26. Vallejo “Green Earth” (pigment)
  27. Vallejo “Light Yellow Ochre” (pigment)
  28. Vallejo “Chrome Oxide Green” (pigment)
  29. Vallejo Thinner
  30. Secret Weapon Washes “Sewer Water”
  31. Liquitex “Burnt Umber” (ink)
  32. Army Painter “Strong Tone” (wash/shade)
  33. FOIMAS 100 pcs Miniature Plant Set – Mini Trees, Flowers, Shrubs for Fairy Garden, Diorama, Train Scenery, Sand Architecture Model Craft Supply
  34. Vallejo Diorama FX “Still Water”
  35. Liquitex Professional Acrylic Ink 30 ml Bottle – Phthalo Blue Green Shade (ink)
  36. Daler-Rowney® FW Acrylic Artists’ Ink “Sap Green” (ink)
  37. Gamers Grass “6mm Strong Green Tufts” (flocking)
  38. Gamers Grass “XL Strong Green Tufts” (flocking)

Epic Battles at Cold Wars 2026: A Recap

Back in early February, I attended the 2026 HMGS Cold Wars convention in Lancaster, PA. The theme was “Wild, Wild, West”. this is not one of my usual game themes, but as you’ll see shortly I adapted for one game anyways. As I write this now it is already mid-March, so I thought it was about time to finally got around to sharing some of the games I played in and ran in the H.A.W.K.’s room.

The H.A.W.K.’s are a great club from Harford County, Maryland. Two of my good West Point buddies (Buck Surdu USMA ’85 and Dave Wood fellow USMA ’84) have been members for years, and I have been fortunate enough to be their New England carpetbagging GM for a few years now.

Buck, yours truly, and Dave

Prelude to Austerlitz (Wars of Eagles and Empires)

Thursday night I jumped into a Napoleonic 28mm game run by Buck, “Prelude to Austerlitz”. It used his Wars of Eagles and Empires rules.

It was a fun game and I was on the Austrian side with two other young players (they were young anyways). The French players were not as aggressive as they probably had wanted to be, which allowed us to successfully defend the town.

The Wicked Witch is Still Trying to Get Dorothy’s Slippers (Feudal Patrol using Wars of Ozz figures)

This was a fun opportunity to jump in a Feudal Patrol game with my old USMA roommate Dave. Dave does a great job as a GM and even won a PELA award at Cold Wars for his Zulu game. Dave uses 28mm Wars of Ozz figures in a skirmish game using Feudal Patrol rules. I played on the Winkie side and we were able to take Dorothy down and get those valuable slippers!

After this game, I hit the vendors hall and got some lunch. Then I took the rest of the afternoon time to set up my Friday evening Wars of Ozz game. – “The Great Munchkin Heist“.

The Great Munchkin Heist (Wars of Ozz)

This was an epic back and forth Wars of Ozz battle, which really was great to see! Three brigades were on the attack (two Munchkin, one allied brigade, and an army reserve). The allied brigade was composed of two regiments of Jinjur female pirates, an Impkin slingshot battery, and a regiment of Frost Ogres (that Dave Stone will recognize!). The reserve came from the Land of Harvest – Great Pumpkinheads and regiments of eagles and owls. these allies hoped to share the loot with the Munchkins. Technological “secrets” were hidden in buildings throughout.

Three small but potent Nitpik mechanical men brigades and a small reserve force defended the formidable rusty steel walls of the Robotic Sanctum – a.k.a. the Industrial City. A small infantry reserve remained in the city, and there were rumors of a Nitpik relief force coming…

The Munchkin 1st Brigade advances on the left.
The Munchkin 2nd Brigade advances in the center.
The Allied Brigade ready for battle.
In the center was the Munchkin Army Reserve of Harvest troops under the command of Zoraster the Wizard.
The Nitpik Medium Artillery defends the left flank, with Elite Axemen behind ready to deal with any penetrations of the walls by the allied brigade.
Defending the Nitpik center against the Munchkin 2nd Brigade was the Lemon Drop Legionnaires at the wall (also with napalm blasters) and the axe-wielding Jade Automata.
Defending the Nitpik right was the 3rd Nitpik Brigade. They had Morin’s Monsters with napalm blasters and a mechanical mini-swarm.
A side view of the start of the battle behind the Nitpik lines. The Mechanical mini-swarm is in the foreground, while the sole regiment in the Nitpik reserve – the Pink Nightmares – is in the back left.
The battle begins.
The Allied Brigade moves up on the right.
The Nitpik Artillery prepares to fire at the Frost Ogres…
….who take casualties and rout in the face of withering fire.
Overzealous Lemon Drop Legionnaires take fire from the balloon and an unlucky reaction test causes them to jump over their protective walls towards the enemy!
This unlucky reaction subjected the Lemon Drop Legionnaires to Munchkin musketry at short range.
Morin’s Monsters hold the line.
Munchkin Light Cavalry and Landwehr move up on the left flank..
The Munchkin 1st Brigade moves towards the gate – somewhat stymied by the ominous rusty steel walls – their solution…
…climb the wall !! Assault Munchkins! (or Ranger Munchkins?)…they were soon in the town searching for technological secrets.
The Munchkins commit the Great Pumpkinheads and Great Owls and bypass Morin’s Monsters.
A female pirate regiment breaches the right wall and faces the Elite Axemen.
The Munchkin Center is breached as well.

The Munchkins searched in vain for any technological secrets. They did manage to inflict slightly more casualties on Professor Nitpik’s forces, resulting in a narrow 18-15 point victory.

Little Wars TV actually showed a snippet this game on their Cold Wars video – you can see it at minute mark 12:31. My players look happy!

That wrapped up Friday – and Saturday I had two games scheduled. The first was a What a Tanker “what if” scenario between Vichy French and Italian armor. I had to cancel it due to lack of players. That allowed me more time to set up my evening game and to play in another Feudal Patrol game run by Buck. It was a scenario based on a William Tell TV show from the ’60’s that I have no memory of! It was fun, we freed the good guys from the Austrians, and had a good time.

Tell Me the Truth! (Feudal Patrol/William Tell)

Buck prepping at the game start. I spent a lot of time in the game moving that bee hive on the hill!

At last it was time for Saturday night’s game.

High Noon at the Cyber Ruins (Combat Patrol:WWII – modified for retro Sci-fi)

This was my “western-themed” game.

I was really looking forward to this one as I got to use all of my rusty wreckage and ruined buildings that I have posted about here in this blog. It did not disappoint. The battle was full of action, with jet-packing cowboys (Texican Space Rangers) and Space ‘Roos engaging the Retrovians (Roger’s own). (More about Roger here.) Ancient robots were found and lost, some even getting violent when found. Buck got to play and channeled his inner paratrooper in the attack.

The game set up for action. Retrovians are moving into the ruined city from the left, and Space Cowboys from the opposite side. Space ‘Roos come in as reinforcements.
Players ready for action.
Skip maneuvers his troops in the background while Bruce deftly had his sniper climb the transmission tower. Obviously the figure would not stay, so we used a rubber band.
Retrovian Heavy Weapons Squad.
Movement into the city.
My friend Ken Howe snapped this shot!
Retrovian “Garkon” section.
Moving into the city – what to do?
Space Cowboys and Retrovians search for ancient robots.
Retrovian fire team mounts the wall.
Space Cowboys huddle in the wreckage from Retrovian fire.
The tripod “Bra’sheers” had a difficult tome getting over the walls. They did at points and instantly decapitated a few Space Cowboys with their claws.
A “Bender” robot was found – but was hostile and killed a cowboy and needed to be subdued.
Some of Leif’s Space Cowboys got on the wall in a conga line only to take Bra’sheer machine gun fire.
The conga line of death before machine gun fire…
Retrovians getting into the city in any way they could.
The battle rages.
Urban fighting!
Lots of combat in the city.
Buck jet-packs his Space ‘Roos and ambushes Bruce’s Retrovians, wiping them out. He was practically giddy in this game with how successful his tactics were.
Retrovians seek revenge with sonic cannon and sniper fire.
Space Cowboys and Space ‘Roos continue the search.

In the end, the Space Cowboys and Space ‘Roos alliance found 3/4 robots and successfully held on to them. All casualties mounted. But the victory was clearly in the hands of the Space Cowboys and Space ‘Roos!

After the game, with help, I was able to pack the car for a Sunday morning drive home. The temperature was well below zero Fahrenheit! With the wind chill it was -13 degrees Fahrenheit (or -25 Celsius for you metric types!).

Thank you to all at HMGS who made Cold Wars possible!

That wraps up this post – I still have a few that are in the queue , and I hope they are of interest.

I will be running these games again so see you at the next convention!

Next up? Some more terrain I think!

References:

Check these out!

For a consolidated list of links for any of my previous convention/club/game battle report blog posts, please see this page: https://markamorin.com/club-convention-games/

For a consolidated list of links for any of my previous Wars of Ozz posts, please see this page: https://markamorin.com/miniatures/wars-of-ozz/

For a consolidated list of links for any of my previous sci-fi/retro sci-fi posts, please see this page: https://markamorin.com/sci-fi-retro-sci-fi-projects/

Creating Realistic Ruined Buildings and Wreckage for Wargaming

Followers of this blog have seen several posts showing my “rusty” preparations. I have been getting ready for my numerous games at 2026 tabletop wargaming conventions. That preparation involves painting up figures and terrain for scenarios that involve a good amount of ruins and wreckage.

In a previous post, I shared how I built transmission towers and rusty walls for a Wars of OzzTM game involving Professor Nitpik’s Industrial City (the Robotic Sanctum). I ran that game at Cold Wars and will share more about that convention shortly. The theme for Cold Wars this year was “The Wild West”, so I also had planned to run a game involving Space Cowboys (technically Archive Texican Space Rangers” from Star Rovers).

I don’t run western games, but I could cobble together a retro sci-fi game using Buck Surdu’s Combat Patrol:WWIITM gaming system (with my modifications). In my game Archive “Space Cowboys”, and uplifted kangaroos  (“Space ‘Roos” ) combat blue-skinned “Retrovians” (from War Games Supply Dump). Both armies are searching for hidden ancient robots in the apocalyptic ruins of a long-dead civilization on a newly-colonized world called Dust.

To really make the ancient ruined industrial panorama that I wanted, I needed more buildings and structures than just my transmission towers, rusty walls, rusty generators and ruined chemical plant. I also wanted a lot of wreckage strewn about as terrain.

To those ends, I ended up making two ruined factory buildings, two industrial structures, and 61 scatter bases of industrial wreckage. These were all built at the same time. This enabled me to work around issues like drying and curing times as time was short. Oh yeah, and we had a few snow storms here in Massachusetts along the way that ate up some hobby time (not helpful at all).

I wanted to share my project and all its components here with you. As these were simultaneous efforts, you will see multiple project stages here. You may notice that I used a lot of repurposed bits of metal and plastic and Juweela products. The lists will be at the end of this post as is my habit. My concept was to achieve a Stalingrad-like look.

For the two buildings, I converted an iPad 16 box top and bottom. I used Apoxie Sculpt, steel washers, sand, multiple pieces of plastic, desiccant cylinders, and a lot of Juweela items to make the 61 scatter bases. And for two flat industrial structures, I reused two pieces of packing materials to repurpose them as flat rusted structures.

I started out with this iPad 16 box. I would use the top and bottom of this. It is plastic and cardboard.

I sawed out windows and doors on both box pieces and made each a bit differently in terms of architectural arrangement. I then hot-glued foam board to make rooms. For flooring, I broke up old popsicle sticks. These I had used previously to mount figures for painting on other projects. Lastly, I drilled out holes in the walls to simulate old bullet holes.

Cutting out the windows and doors on the first building.
Adding the walls, bullet holes, and flooring.

Then it was on to sculpting the outside walls. I did each building separately from here on so as to handle both curing times and to learn as I went as to best practices. Apoxie Sculpt and a Green Stuff World brick roller worked well.

Sculpting the walls. I used an awl to create and shape shell and bullet impacts on the outside.
Using the windows as gripping spots made the sculpting easier. I did need to then wait for curing.

While the walls cured, I worked on the wreckage bases – also using Apoxie Sculpt. I made the bases differently in terms of both size and shape. It helped to use one or more steel washers underneath the base sculpts. Using different sizes helped to make the shapes varied.

The biggest washer that I used and a base covered with Apoxie Sculpt.
Examples of the other sizes and shapes – all with steel washers underneath.

As the corrosion texture paint takes time to dry as well, I started adding that to various pieces of debris that I had saved up. I like to use a cheap old brush that could serve no other purpose – especially as it usually destroys it. The corrosion paint needed to dry and then got a second application.

Using the AK Corrosion Texture paint. Here I am using it on desiccant cylinders (from pill bottles), crushed plastic straw sections, and rubber inserts from a drain plug replacement.

After a day, the Apoxie Sculpt on the first building had cured. But I wanted there to be a small outside rim to it that could hold wreckage and brick debris. While a sheet of polystyrene was gluing to its bottom, I worked on the second building.

First building cured.
Bottom view – I needed more here underneath…but before that I finished the second building’s outside.
Second building outside sculpting…
….and second building flooring installation.

As the first building had cured, I started to paint it. Then I was able to glue a polystyrene base to building number 2.

Building number one with early paint work, and building number two being glued to the PS sheet under a heavy textbook.

As I was again dealing with drying and curing times, I went back to work on the wreckage bases. I used up some white sand on the Apoxie Sculpt bases and applied with PVA. Once that had dried, I added as much wreckage as I could to each.

Wreckage bases – I started with the largest. The two buildings are shown in progress as are the next batch of sculpted bases curing.
Close up shot of the larger wreckage bases in progress. Glue must dry…
Close up of building one with insides primed.

At this point, I added the flat clear plastic packing material to two square pieces of polystyrene by clamping and gluing them in preparation for corrosion texture. Then it was back to the wreckage bases. I had run out of white sand, so the next batch of wreckage bases got a PVA/grey sand application. As I used a lot pigments later, this made zero difference. At the same time, I also dirtied up the interior building walls and flooring using a sponge and various dark washes. The rim outside the buildings got a sandy texture paint covering.

The dark sand drying on the next wreckage bases, the flat structures with first application of corrosion texture, other bases in progress, and the buildings in the back.
A second coat of corrosion paint has been applied to the flat structures here. I also sorted the wreckage bases by size before adding pigments.
The flat structures and some other rusty paints I would add before augmenting with pigments.

Below you can see the wreckage bases after I added pigments to them. I fixed the pigments with Vallejo Thinner applied with a spray from a lens cleaning bottle.

Smaller bases done!
Medium-sized bases and flat industrial structures done!
Largest wreckage bases done!

Next, I added rusty industrial wreckage and scattered bricks to the buildings’ interiors.

After adding industrial wreckage and bricks to building 1…
…and building 2.

Clearly, pigments were needed at this point to make the bricks and wreckage look older and dirtier. More pigments and dark washes to the rescue!

The buildings after adding the pigments and washes to dirty and rust up everything.
Top view of both buildings as completed.

I was now ready to mock up the tabletop with everything! But first, the flyer for the game – which I finished before this project:

Game flyer.

The wreckage (all 61 pieces and the buildings really helped complete my vision. There are 24 possible search locations for the 4 ancient robots, known only to the GM. The four ancient robots I used were: “Folder Bot 3000” (aka Bender) from Armorcast Terraform Terrain Ltd.’s “Robot Townies” collection; and “RT22” from old Archive miniatures Star Rovers line circa 1977; and two Archive Miniatures Robot Cooks also circa 1977 (also Star Rovers).

The four ancient robots! Folder Bot 3000, RT22, and the two Robot Cooks.

I randomly select the locations for the four robots (see numbers on the map below). My playtest worked well, and here are some shots of the mock-up tabletop.

The mock up of the tabletop for the game. The Retrovians three squads and command group are in the forefront. The Space Cowboys are at the opposite side.
A side view.
View from the Space Cowboy’s side.
Generator side view.

I did not use all of the wreckage in the mock-up. I will share a Cold Wars post soon. However, as a preview here are a couple of shots of the game set up at Cold Wars in all its glory:

Photo of the game in progress at Cold Wars with me as the GM. (photo courtesy of Ken Howe).
Space Cowboys and Retrovians start searching for the robots.
The shoot out starts – while one robot has been found in the upper right. This was Bender, and he was not happy to be found and attacked and killed a Space Cowboy.

More about Cold Wars soon in a future post.

I hope you enjoyed reading this and seeing my rusty panorama come to life – on the tabletop anyways. If this WIP post helps you in any way, that is great! I am including these terrain pieces in Dave Stone’s PAINT WHAT YOU GOT 2025/2026 Challenge as these were completed in early February. For now, that’s it, until next time!

329 miles to Lancaster, PA and Cold Wars!

The materials are listed below as a reference for me (and you maybe).

For all of my previous posts on terrain projects, please see this page. For all of my previous posts on sci-fi projects, please see this page…for any of my previous posts on scratch-building, see this page.

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THE TWO RUINED BUILDINGS:

  1. iPad 16 Box (top and bottom)
  2. Hot glue
  3. Foam Board
  4. Toothpicks
  5. Popsicle sticks
  6. Apoxie sculpt
  7. Vallejo Surface Primer “Grey”
  8. SIBE AUTOMATION “White Polystyrene 8″ X 12″ X 1/8″ Plastic Sheet”
  9. PVA
  10. Huge Miniatures “Brick Red”
  11. MSP “Brown Liner”
  12. Vallejo Game Color “Sepia” (wash/shade)
  13. Vallejo Wash FX “Dark Grey” (wash/shade)
  14. Liquitex “Burnt Umber” (ink)
  15. Secret Weapon Washes “Sewer Water”
  16. Vallejo Thinner
  17. Vallejo Surface Primer “German Green Brown”
  18. Vallejo “Light Slate Grey” (pigment)
  19. AK “Dry Ground” (texture)
  20. Vallejo “Carbon Black” (pigment)
  21. Juweela Metal Scrap Rusty Industry (23336)
  22. Juweela Debris Assortment (23316)
  23. Juweela Debris Brick Red (23315)
  24. Juweela Debris Assortment (23315)
  25. Juweela Bricks (23034)
  26. Juweela Metal Scrap Rusty Gear Wheels (23317)
  27. Army Painter “Red Tone” (wash)
  28. Secret Weapon Washes “Red Black” (wash)
  29. Secret Weapon Washes “Ruby” (wash)
  30. P3 “Red Ink” (ink)
  31. Vallejo Game Air “Red Terracotta”

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THE 61 WRECKAGE BASES/PILES:

  1. Play sand
  2. Apoxie sculpt
  3. PVA
  4. Various scrap plastic pieces
  5. Cylindrical desiccant holders
  6. Rubber sink stopper rim
  7. Juweela Metal Scrap Rusty Industry (23336)
  8. Juweela Debris Assortment (23316)
  9. Juweela Debris Brick Red (23315)
  10. Juweela Debris Assortment (23315)
  11. Juweela Bricks (23034)
  12. Juweela Metal Scrap Rusty Gear Wheels (23317)
  13. AK “Corrosion Texture” (texture)
  14. Vallejo Model Air “Rust” (71.080)
  15. Vallejo Model Air “Rust” (71.080)
  16. Vallejo Model Air “Rust” (71.069)
  17. Vallejo Model Air “Orange Rust”
  18. Citadel “Ryza Rust” (dry)
  19. Vallejo “Old Rust” (pigment)
  20. Vallejo “Pigment Binder”
  21. Vallejo Thinner
  22. Vallejo “Dark Slate Grey” (pigment)
  23. Vallejo “Dark Yellow Ochre” (pigment)
  24. Vallejo Game Color “Sepia” (wash/shade)
  25. Secret Weapon Washes “Sewer Water”
  26. Army Painter “Red Tone” (wash)
  27. Secret Weapon Washes “Red Black” (wash)
  28. Secret Weapon Washes “Ruby” (wash)
  29. P3 “Red Ink” (ink)
  30. Vallejo Game Air “Red Terracotta”

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THE 2 FLAT INDUSTRIAL STRUCTURES:

  1. SIBE AUTOMATION “White Polystyrene 8″ X 12″ X 1/8″ Plastic Sheet”
  2. Plastic packing material from a forgotten source!
  3. PVA
  4. AK “Corrosion Texture” (texture)
  5. Vallejo Surface Primer “German Green Brown”
  6. Vallejo Model Air “Rust” (71.080)
  7. Vallejo Model Air “Rust” (71.069)
  8. Vallejo Model Air “Orange Rust”
  9. Citadel “Ryza Rust” (dry)
  10. Vallejo “Old Rust” (pigment)
  11. Vallejo “Pigment Binder”
  12. Vallejo Thinner
  13. Vallejo “Dark Yellow Ochre” (pigment)

Creating More Mechanical Men for Professor Nitpik’s Army

Convention season has arrived! So, I needed to finish off a few regiments in anticipation of several games between now and June. This time, I needed to augment my forces of Professor Nitpik and his Mechanical Men. Click the link to learn his back story.

Luckily, my first group of mechanical men miniatures for 2026 is now done. By group, I mean 41 figures for my Wars of Ozz games.

The Mechanical Men would need help in 2026 defending against marauding Munchkins. They would also need help chasing them down as they attempt to steal technological secrets. I chose to build and paint up two regiments of axemen (OZZ-511). Additionally, I chose two regiments armed with napalm blasters (OZZ-539 – not sharing a link as the picture is incorrect on the website). I also had a mechanical wizard, Androit (OZZ-543).

Luckily Buck Surdu has changed the basing rules for these such that a regiment has 10 figures, not 20. They still do come in 20 figures though! This is why I was able to turn each SKU into two regiments of each!

These were completed in early January, 2026. Therefore, they all qualify for Dave Stone’s PAINT WHAT YOU GOT 2025/2026 Challenge.

I wanted to give these bad bots a colorful metallic shine. To that end, I experimented by mixing Vallejo “Metallic Medium” with Army Painter Speed and Citadel Contrast Paints. I even tried this with a few of the 1.0 versions that have a reputation for “bleeding”. I am happy to report that no bleeding occurred with this combination.

The group all cleaned up and ready for assembly and priming.
Here you see the two regiments of axemen in progress. These regiments would be “The Jade Automata” and “The Pink Nightmares”

The two napalm blaster regiments would be yellow-themed (“The Lemon Drop Legionnaires”) and orange-themed (Morin’s Monsters). Buck edited his flags for me and named that last one so I just had to give that moniker!

Below the axemen in progress:

They have gun metal arms and legs, but colorful torsos for Ozz! The Metal Medium and contrast/speed paint combination worked well.
The command bases of the 4 regiments with their nice new battle standards.
Top view.

I also painted up Androit, plus 4 crates as game markers for the games to come. These represent stores of Professor Nitpik’s technological secrets.

First Androit:

And the crates – I think I got these from Armorcast years ago.

Crates of unknown technological secrets from before the Last Great War…

How about some eye candy (they do already look quite sugary, no?)

Completed Eye Candy

Morin’s Monsters

The Lemon Drop Legionnaires

The Jade Automata

The Pink Nightmares

(Apologies to Ralphie.)

Androit The Mechanical Wizard

Group Shot

I also posted a short video on Instagram showing these mechanical men up close:

As I write this I have just returned from Cold Wars in Lancaster, PA. These miniatures debuted in their first game, “The Great Munchkin Heist”. In upcoming posts, I will share that game and some photos from Cold Wars.

Below is the flyer for that game.

The game went exceptionally well and I look forward to sharing it in a post in the near future. I also intend to share more apocalyptic terrain that I made it for this and another scenario. I also hope to do a 2025 roundup post as well…again, I said hope!

AND I hope to see some of you soon at conventions!

Final Notes and Links

Want to learn more about Ozz and its world? If you want to check out the excellent Wars of Ozz figures’ range, there are two places to get them. You can also get the rules there. (I make no money from this.) The game rules and the figures are available from the next two places:

In the US Old Glory has a site – Wars of Ozz Miniatures.

In the UK go to Sally 4th.

And the new Wars of Ozz Supplement is available as a PDF download from the next two websites:

As for the paints I used here – the list is extensive. But my memories are not always – so they are as much a resource to me as to you. Given that I have so much wreckage on the mechanical men’s bases, it does add to the variety.

If interested, here you go. If not, thanks for looking at these bots. Until next time…

Miscellaneous details and references for those interested in that sort of thing:

For my earlier posts on Wars of Ozz games, view this page. It includes figures, units, and other related projects.

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THE TWO REGIMENTS OF NITPIK AXEMEN:

  1. Polystyrene sheet
  2. Gorilla Glue
  3. PVA Glue
  4. Popsicle sticks
  5. 2″ Square War Games Accessories Steel Bases (21)
  6. Vallejo Surface Primer “Black”
  7. Vallejo Mecha Primer “White”
  8. Vallejo Thinner
  9. Army Painter Speed Paint 2.0 “Familiar Pink”
  10. Vallejo “Metal Medium”
  11. Citadel Contrast Paint “Striking Scorpion Green”
  12. Popsicle sticks
  13. PVA Glue
  14. Vallejo Model Air “Concrete”
  15. Vallejo Model Air “Tire Black”
  16. Vallejo Model Air “Bright Brass”
  17. Army Painter Warpaints Metallics “Gun Metal”
  18. Vallejo Mecha Color “Light Steel”
  19. Vallejo Mecha Color “Off White”
  20. Army Painter Speed Paint 2.0 “Polished Silver”
  21. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Red”
  22. Citadel Contrast Paint “Moon Yellow”
  23. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Blue”
  24. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Green”
  25. Vallejo Model Air “IDF Sand Grey”
  26. Reaper MSP Core Colors “Pure Black”
  27. Army Painter “Red Tone” (wash)
  28. Secret Weapon Washes “Red Black” (wash)
  29. Secret Weapon Washes “Ruby” (wash)
  30. P3 “Red Ink” (ink)
  31. Vallejo Game Air “Red Terracotta”
  32. Army Painter “Green Tone” (wash)
  33. Citadel “Nuln Oil GLOSS” (wash/shade)
  34. Citadel “Astrogranite” (texture)
  35. Citadel “Astrogranite Debris” (texture)
  36. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  37. Vallejo Flow Improver
  38. Vallejo “Satin Varnish”
  39. Juweela 1:35 Debris
  40. Juweela Metal Scrap Rusty
  41. Juweela 1:35 Bricks
  42. Wood shards
  43. Vallejo “Old Rust” (pigment)
  44. Vallejo “Carbon Black” (pigment)
  45. Vallejo “Light Slate Grey” (pigment)
  46. Vallejo “Titanium White” (pigment)
  47. Pendraken 12mm dice frames
  48. Nitpik flag design from Wars of Ozz Facebook page (printed on card stock)

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THE TWO REGIMENTS OF NITPIK MECHANICAL MEN ARMED WITH NAPALM BLASTERS:

  1. 2″ Square War Games Accessories Steel Bases (21)
  2. PVA Glue
  3. Popsicle sticks
  4. 2″ Square War Games Accessories Steel Bases (21)
  5. Vallejo Mecha Primer “White”
  6. Vallejo Thinner
  7. Army Painter Speed Paint 1.0 “Zealot Yellow”
  8. Vallejo “Metal Medium”
  9. Army Painter Speed Paint 1.0 “Fire Giant Orange”
  10. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Red”
  11. Createx “4011 Reducer”
  12. Vallejo Model Air “Tire Black”
  13. Vallejo Mecha Color “Light Steel”
  14. Vallejo Model Air “Bright Brass”
  15. Turbo Dork “People Eater”
  16. Army Painter Warpaints Metallics “Gun Metal”
  17. Vallejo “Thinner Medium”
  18. Vallejo Model Air “Black Metallic”
  19. Vallejo Mecha Color “Off White”
  20. Army Painter Speed Paint 2.0 “Polished Silver”
  21. Citadel Contrast Paint “Moon Yellow”
  22. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Blue”
  23. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Green”
  24. Vallejo Model Air “IDF Sand Grey”
  25. Secret Weapon Washes “Yellow Snow” (wash)
  26. Secret Weapon Washes “Sunshine” (wash)
  27. Army Painter “Red Tone” (wash)
  28. Secret Weapon Washes “Red Black” (wash)
  29. Secret Weapon Washes “Ruby” (wash)
  30. P3 “Red Ink” (ink)
  31. Vallejo Game Air “Red Terracotta”
  32. Citadel “Nuln Oil GLOSS” (wash/shade)
  33. Citadel “Astrogranite” (texture)
  34. Citadel “Astrogranite Debris” (texture)
  35. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  36. Vallejo Flow Improver
  37. Vallejo “Satin Varnish”
  38. Juweela 1:35 Debris
  39. Juweela Metal Scrap Rusty
  40. Juweela 1:35 Bricks
  41. Wood shards
  42. Vallejo “Old Rust” (pigment)
  43. Vallejo “Carbon Black” (pigment)
  44. Vallejo “Light Slate Grey” (pigment)
  45. Vallejo “Titanium White” (pigment)
  46. Pendraken 12mm dice frames
  47. Nitpik flag design from Wars of Ozz Facebook page (printed on card stock)

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON ANDROIT THE MECHANICAL WIZARD:

  1. War Games Accessories Steel Bases (FOW1)
  2. PVA Glue
  3. Popsicle sticks
  4. Army Painter Warpaints Metallics “Gun Metal”
  5. Vallejo Thinner
  6. Vallejo Mecha Color “Light Steel”
  7. Vallejo Model Air “Tire Black”
  8. Vallejo Model Color “Red Leather”
  9. Vallejo Mecha Color “Off White”
  10. Vallejo Model Color “Light Brown”
  11. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Red”
  12. Army Painter Speed Paint 2.0 “Aztec Gold”
  13. Turbo Dork “People Eater”
  14. Vallejo Model Air “Ivory”
  15. Army Painter “Soft Tone” (shade)
  16. Citadel “Nuln Oil GLOSS” (wash/shade)
  17. Citadel “Astrogranite” (texture)
  18. Citadel “Astrogranite Debris” (texture)
  19. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  20. Vallejo Flow Improver
  21. Vallejo “Satin Varnish”
  22. MDF Base
  23. Juweela 1:35 Debris
  24. Juweela Metal Scrap Rusty
  25. Juweela 1:35 Bricks
  26. Wood shards
  27. Vallejo “Old Rust” (pigment)
  28. Vallejo “Carbon Black” (pigment)
  29. Vallejo “Light Slate Grey” (pigment)
  30. Vallejo “Titanium White” (pigment)
  31. Pendraken 12mm dice frames
  32. MDF placard and printed label
Man of TIN blog two

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