From eBay Wreck to Warbot: My Second Archive Roberker Build

Back in 2018, I was lucky enough to receive a very rare “Roberker” figure. It is an Archive Miniatures figure circa 1978. It comes from the “Star Rovers” line.

Roberker is a giant flame-throwing robot (Archive #2010). It is nearly 3½”/85mm tall, and was supposedly one of the largest robots on the market back then. Its arms end with flamethrower nozzles. Archive’s creator, Nevile Stocken, commented on FaceBook that it was his creation, and inspired by Fred Saberhagen’s Berserker novels. I wrote about it back in 2018 here and you can check it out.

I did not think I would ever see another one – but thanks to an open search on eBay, I managed to see an incomplete one that I bought in 2024.

I’ll describe how I built the model and share some finished photos and a video link.

Work in Progress Shots

The photo from the eBay listing

It was missing an upper arm, and I knew that like the last one I built, that this would be a challenge of construction more than painting. The build would be the tough part – specially as this one was incomplete. The photo below shows the pieces I got plus the old Roberker that I had previously completed. I needed to look at it often to remember how to rebuild this one.

The old Roberker looks plaintively at the remains of an incomplete kit.
The model’s base underside showing its date and SKU number.

Of course, green stuff, paper clip wire, and polystyrene can be shaped in many ways. To rebuild the upper arm, I took polystyrene tubing, and sized up the appropriate length using the one other upper arm piece that I did have. I sculpted green stuff for a shoulder, as well as to thicken and strengthen the PS arm.

Green stuff was a big part of the project. On the new arm, I needed to let it cure, then I could drill it out for the paper clip wire pinning attachments. Meanwhile, I took some small brass collars I had and added them to the ends of the arms to better approximate nozzles. I also repaired many depressions and gaps in the old lead. Lastly, I sculpted over the body parts so that later I could have better structural integrity with this bad boy.

Once all that had cured, I drilled out pin holes for the legs, shoulders, and arms. I used a combination of Gorilla Glue and green stuff to assemble the model. First, I used glue to get an initial bond, then green stuff to firm that up.

Of course, then more curing time.

The green stuff modifications are clear here – but the right arm kept drooping. To remedy, I affixed it to the right hip.

To keep the model upright, I then used two 2″ steel fender washers as a base.

Here the right arm is affixed to the hip – and the model is well-bonded to the steel fender washers.

I hand-primed the model with Vallejo Primers “Black” because the airbrush was on its last legs and clotting a bit.

Primed black.

The Createx “Wicked Aluminum” airbrush paint I had dated from 2017 – and definitely was not useable in my airbrush after 9 years. Luckily, while the name of the product had changed from “Wicked Aluminum” to “Wicked Aluminum – Medium”, the SKU was still the same (W354). The new bottle worked well. After the aluminum paint had dried, I decided that this Roberker needed differently-colored flames coming out of his head versus the previous model’s orange. A nice plasma-green seemed appropriate. Similarly, I painted the eye with a metallic yellow eye to better match the green flames. I tried to match the previous model’s base with a reddish combination of Citadel “Martian Ironearth” and “Martian Ironcrust”. Once that dried sufficiently, I shaded up the model.

All painted up and awaiting final varnish.
Another view of the unvarnished figure.
Varnished!

I removed the figure from the poster tack-covered specimen jar. Below some comparative shots of both Roberkers.

Eye Candy

Here are some eye candy shots on a moon landscape.

And a shot of the pair:

Oh yeah, I did promise you a video!

I love the old J. Geils Band song, “Flamethrower” – which I chose as a theme here. I did see the band in 1982 at Eisenhower Hall at West Point before they broke up at the height of their success.

Inspirations and Motivations

Once again, I have to say that my inspiration to work on retro-sci fi stuff again came by way of the Combat Patrol WWIITM Retro Sci-Fi games that I ran at 4 conventions earlier this year. You can see those games at the following blog links: Cold Wars 2026, TotalCon 2026, and Huzzah 2026. They are really fun and a nice return to a genre that I really enjoyed.

Background Information on the Figure

Archive stopped producing figures in the early 1980’s and sold off its molds. According to Lost Minis Wiki:

Archive was probably run by Barbara and Nevile Stocken [1], this American company produced a wide variety of figures, many of which have been kept in production through other companies down the years. In the early 1980s they closed up and were superseded by R*kiiv.

Sculptors: Nevile Stocken, Steve Lortz

I don’t know how many Roberkers are still out there – but I have two!

As always, I would love to hear your thoughts on this rehab – reconstruction-resurrection project. What do you think or know about Roberker?

The comments section awaits your opinions! Join the conversation!

Finally, below are a list of some references and links that might also be of interest. I use them to refer to when I forget painting schemes that I want to replicate – like Roberker’s!

References:

For a consolidated list of links for any of my previous “Old School Miniatures” blog posts, please see this page here.

For a consolidated list of links for any of my previous sci-fi/retro sci-fi posts, please see this page: https://markamorin.com/sci-fi-retro-sci-fi-projects/

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THIS ROBERKER FIGURE:

  1. Specimen Jars
  2. Poster tack
  3. Evergreen Scale Models Plastic Tubing (1/8″), (SKU 224)
  4. Green stuff (kneadatite)
  5. Small brass collars
  6. Gorilla Glue
  7. Paper clip wire
  8. Makers Bolt 3/8″ x 2″ steel fender washers
  9. Vallejo Primers “Black”
  10. Createx Wicked Colors “Wicked Aluminum – Medium” (W354)
  11. Vallejo Model Color “Off White”
  12. Tamiya “Copper” (XF-6)
  13. Createx Candy 2o “Emerald Green” (4661)
  14. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Yellow” (W302)
  15. Army Painter Warpaints Fanatics “Data System Glow” (effects)
  16. Citadel “Nihilake Oxide”
  17. Army Painter “Green Tone” (wash/shade)
  18. Citadel “Martian Ironearth” (texture)
  19. Citadel “Martian Ironcrust” (texture)
  20. Citadel “Nuln Oil GLOSS” (wash/shade)
  21. Vallejo Thinner
  22. Vallejo Flow Improver
  23. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  24. Vallejo “Matte Varnish”

Until next time…

US Vehicles for Operation Torch: TANK DESTROYERS – M3 GMC’s and M6 GMC Fargo’s

The US Army had a lot of catching up to do at the start of World War II. This was true both in terms of vehicles and doctrine in the way of armored warfare. This included anti-tank units.

Initially, the US Army experienced internal squabbles about anti-tank troops and control. These were among the infantry, cavalry, and artillery branches. They disputed over which would control what were then-called “anti-tank battalions”. Interestingly, the Armor Branch (created in 1940) had little interest in that fight. It desired to stay focused on offensive operations.

The September 1941 Louisiana Maneuvers demonstrated the efficacy of anti- tank battalions. In June 1942, the Army created a new branch for this force. They also developed a doctrine to support their use (Field Manual 18–5, Tactical Employment, Tank Destroyer Unit). Tank destroyer battalions were then created and began to be fielded.

Developing doctrine is one thing – fielding self-propelled anti-tank equipment is another. When Operation Torch was launched, there were not any of the tank destroyers that you saw in later battles. No M10 Wolverines, M18 Hellcats, or M36 Jacksons – or even towed M1 57mm or M5 guns – took part in Torch.

Nope, at the start of the war, the US Army fielded just two models of tank destroyer. One was on an M3 half-track, which mounted the venerable 75mm Canon_de_75_modèle_1897. This combination was called the M3 Gun Motor Carriage (GMC). The other was the M6 Gun Motor Carriage (GMC). This was a Dodge Fargo truck with a rear-mounted M3 37mm gun. Defensively, needless to say, both of these types were not well-armored at all.

Offensively, while the 75mm gun could still pack an anti-armor punch, the 37mm was well on its way to complete obsolescence. Add to that the M6 GMC was rearward-facing. It would have to be turned around to fire, That would have been quite a challenge in combat. I imagine that it was inspired by the British use of portee anti-tank weapons. However, the main reason was probably the urgency of fielding something to fight in the anti-tank role. Add to that – US industrial might had not yet reached full production capacity seen later in the war.

M3 GMC
M6 GMC

But you go to war with the Army you have. Tank Destroyer battalions were formed, consisting of a headquarters company, a reconnaissance company (including a pioneer platoon – Engineers!), and 3 twelve-vehicle tank destroyer companies. Each company fielded each one platoon of M6 Fargo GMC’s and two platoons of M3 GMC’s. Each M6 platoon had 4 vehicles, and each of both of the M3 platoons had 4. These would see combat starting in November 1942 during Operation Torch.

At that point, doctrinally, tank destroyers were by nature defensive forces. They were supposed to blunt any enemy armored attack or counterattack – obviously by destroying tanks. This would allow for counterattack by US tanks and infantry. Operation Torch would be the first test.

For my What a Tanker games for Operation Torch at HISTORICON 2025, I needed both types of tank destroyers. For the M3 GMC’s, I bought 6 from Old Glory (SKU CD-223A) and assembled and painted up just 3. I also found one Battlefront/FOW model (SKU US101) at HAVOC that joined the mix. Now I had 4 M3 GMC’s for gaming. M6 GMC were not easy to source – and I also had never heard of them. So my friend Greg Priebe agreed to 3D-print some for me. You may remember that Greg printed the French vehicles for me I previously wrote about here. He made Panhard 175 TOE’s and Berliet VUDB’s for me.

Thanks again Greg!

I was able to put together 3 M6 GMC’s with what Greg sent me. I worked on these in June as well.

June was a crazy month – and I was able to get these together before HISTORICON 2025. As for photos – well you’ll see what I have.

M3 GMC

The three Old Glory models are metal, while the FOW model is metal and resin. all are 15mm/1:100 scale. Painting the crews was challenging (and fun)!

Three Old Glory M3 GMC models are on the bottom, with the FOW model at the top of the photo.

I painted them up with both gold and white stars. The gold stars were unique to the North African campaign. I thought they gave a more authentic Operation Torch look. Apparently in November of 1942, standardization to white stars was not yet part of the US Army’s official painting scheme. Unlike my M3A1 Scout Cars, I freehand painted the stars. I found they looked better than my decals. For more variation, I either painted the stars on the hood or the grills. Also, each got a name – I used the decals that I had available. The names of these were:

  • BLOOD N GUTS
  • DESTRUCTION
  • HURRICANE
  • LUCKY
My 4 M3 GMC’s. From left to right, BLOOD N GUTS, HURRICANE, DESTRUCTION and LUCKY (the only FOW model).
Close ups of DESTRUCTION and HURRICANE.

M6 GMC (FARGO)

These were all 3D-printed resin in 15mm/1:100 scale. I wish that I had been able to add crew to these. They were already so fiddly and small, that I satisfied myself with just having a driver. Even at that I had to do a good amount of surgery to get him to fit in his seat!

The M6 GMC’s washed after putting in magnets and ready for assembly and painting. I added magnets to each M3 and M6 to allow brewed-up markers to stick to the vehicles on the tabletop.
The M6 GMC’s shown here painted staring at the back end of my Berliet VUDB’s. The M6’s are awaiting basing work and varnishing.

Like with the M3 GMC’s, I gave names to these as well. These names were the only differentiator for these models. The names were:

  • BUCK (for Buck Surdu)
  • DUKE
  • TEX
A close up of two completed models. Here, BUCK is maneuvering into a hide firing position. It would of course have to turn around to fire. Behind is DUKE moving up the road.
A closer view of BUCK.

While the M3 GMC was partially effective in North Africa, the M6 was not. Clearly, both were very vulnerable to direct and indirect fire. As time progressed, they were both replaced by self-propelled vehicles with turrets and better protection. The M3 GMC’s were converted back into half-tracks. The M6 GMC’s were stripped of their guns, and were later used as just trucks.

In conclusion, I had some tank destroyers for Operation Torch games of What a Tanker! I also hope that you enjoyed this post on my early war tank destroyers. All that I have left to share on this project are my 8 American M5 Stuart tanks. I will also share a bit about my games at HISTORICON.

What did you think of these tank destroyers? Did anything surprise you? Motivate you to get some for yourself? Please let me know your thoughts in the comments section!

Lastly, you can find all of my posts on WWII games and projects in one place. There is a consolidated list of posts and their links located here.

The next lists are what I used on these vehicles. I review these lists for my own uses on future projects. For some of you, they may also be helpful.

MATERIALS USED

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS AND FLOCKING USED ON THE ONE BATTLEFRONT/FLAMES OF WAR RESIN M3 GMC MODEL AND THE THREE OLD GLORY M3 GMC MODELS:

  1. Green Stuff
  2. Vallejo Surface Primer “Black”
  3. Vallejo Surface Primer “USA Olive Drab”
  4. Gorilla Glue
  5. Battlefront “European Skin”
  6. Vallejo Thinner Medium
  7. War Games Accessories Steel Bases Number 23 (1½” x 2″)
  8. War Games Accessories Steel Bases Number 16 (½” x ½”)
  9. Green Stuff Wooden Blocks, steel bolts, steel washers, magnets, steel screws
  10. Neodymium magnets (⅛” and ¼”)
  11. Vallejo Surface Primer “German Green Brown”
  12. Army Painter “Mid Brown” (shade/wash)
  13. Reaper MSP Core Colors “Blackened Brown”
  14. Vallejo Model Color “USA Olive Drab”
  15. Army Painter “Flesh Wash” (shade/wash)
  16. Vallejo Model Color “Brass”
  17. Vallejo Model Air “Tire Black”
  18. Vallejo Model Color “Dark Sea Grey”
  19. Vallejo Primers “NATO Green”
  20. Army Painter “Military Shader” (shade/wash)
  21. Reaper MSP “Pure White”
  22. Citadel “Averland Sunset”
  23. Vallejo Mecha Color “Dark Steel”
  24. Army Painter “Dark Tone” (wash/shade)
  25. Citadel “Agrellan Badlands” (texture)
  26. Citadel “Agrellan Earth” (texture)
  27. Vallejo Mecha Weathering Effects “Dark Rust Wash”
  28. Vallejo “Mecha Varnish Gloss”
  29. Microscale Industries “Micro Set”
  30. Microscale Industries “Micro Sol”
  31. Microscale Industries “Liquid Decal Film”
  32. Gin Fritter US Army decals
  33. Battlefront US Army decals
  34. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  35. Citadel “‘Ardcoat”
  36. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  37. Vallejo Flow Improver
  38. Vallejo Thinner
  39. Vallejo “Matte Polyurethane Varnish”
  40. Printed labels on card stock
  41. Gamers Grass “Tiny Beige 2mm Tufts” (flocking)
  42. PVA Glue

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS AND FLOCKING USED ON THE THREE RESIN M6 GMC MODELS (FARGO’S):

  1. Gorilla Glue
  2. Green Stuff Neodymium magnets (⅛”)
  3. Wooden Blocks, steel bolts, steel washers, magnets, steel screws
  4. Vallejo Surface Primer “Black”
  5. Vallejo Surface Primer “USA Olive Drab”
  6. Battlefront “European Skin”
  7. Vallejo Thinner Medium
  8. War Games Accessories Steel Bases Number 23 (1½” x 2″)
  9. Vallejo Surface Primer “German Green Brown”
  10. Army Painter “Mid Brown” (shade/wash)
  11. Reaper MSP Core Colors “Blackened Brown”
  12. FolkArt “Champagne”
  13. Army Painter “Flesh Wash” (shade/wash)
  14. Vallejo Model Air “Tire Black”
  15. Vallejo Model Color “Dark Sea Grey”
  16. Vallejo Primers “NATO Green”
  17. Army Painter “Military Shader” (shade/wash)
  18. Citadel “Averland Sunset”
  19. Citadel “Agrellan Badlands” (texture)
  20. Citadel “Agrellan Earth” (texture)
  21. Vallejo “Mecha Varnish Gloss”
  22. Microscale Industries “Micro Set”
  23. Microscale Industries “Micro Sol”
  24. Microscale Industries “Liquid Decal Film”
  25. Battlefront US Army decals
  26. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  27. Citadel “‘Ardcoat”
  28. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  29. Vallejo Flow Improver
  30. Vallejo Thinner
  31. Vallejo “Matte Polyurethane Varnish”
  32. Printed labels on card stock
  33. Gamers Grass “Tiny Beige 2mm Tufts” (flocking)
  34. PVA Glue

Thanks for checking this out!

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