Building a Scenic Pond for Tabletop Battles

TotalCon 40 was held in Marlborough, MA in February 2026. I ran 8 games there. I envisioned one of them as a battle between Archive Miniatures Star Ducks (from Star Rovers) and F.R.O.G. Critter Commandos. What would they fight over?

Yes, a pond!

Not just any pond, but one they both claimed as part of their cultural and historical heritage. I would run the game with Buck Surdu’s Combat Patrol: WWII rules modified for retro sci-fi skirmish.

With that said, I needed a suitable pond for the tabletop. I did not have a lot of time to build it. The period from the end of Cold Wars on February 8th to the start of TotalCon on February 19th was short. It did not allow for much preparation.

This is the story of that pond build! There are a lot of WIP shots. Additionally, you will find a few videos. They will give you a better flavor of the project.

My flyer for the game – now I needed a pond!

Like most of my projects, I think a good deal about it, design it and plan it, then get it done. I wanted the pond to be big enough to really be a spectacle on the tabletop – and to be very functional for a game.

I sketched out a concept on February 9th – the pond would have several islands for the players to fight to control. Additionally, I needed to have a plan to use Vallejo “Still Water” on the pond. Those initial design concerns that I had were:

  1. Dealing with the effective application depth of “Still Water”. The depth is supposed to be less than 3mm per application. How would I make that work?
  2. What type of pond “structure” would hold the “Still Water”?
  3. I read online that “Still Water” could be acidic and/or destructive to acrylic paint, even a primer. I did not want to get to a stage in the project where I needed to restart or acquire more supplies. How could I deal with this issue?
  4. How could I build island structures onto the pond and how could I integrate them into it?

As is my habit, I got out the graph paper and drew an initial concept with 6 islands. I did end up building 8 islands in the end. The size I wanted was approximately 36″ x 24″.

Initial design drawing of the pond as it would sit on a 6′ x 10′ tabletop on February 9th.

I chose to use foam board as the base. However, the foam board from Michael’s is 30″ x 20″. I added extra pieces of foam board to augment the base. I hot-glued them to the main board as you see below.

The foam board with the extra pieces before gluing.

Once the glue had cooled, I shaped the base irregularly with an Exacto knife.

At this point, the base would not have a lot of strength in resisting any shearing forces. To solve that, I hot-glued thin polystyrene sheets to the base to conform to its shape. These sheets would be on the bottom of the terrain piece.

The base showing the polystyrene sheets hot-glued to the bottom.

Once that cooled, I flipped it over. I cut out pieces of foam board and made 8 islands of different sizes. As the foam board thickness is .47 cm, I believed that they would not get inundated by any of the “Still Water” later on. They did act usefully as guides to depth application, helping to deal with concern #1. These were hot glued to the base.

Islands affixed to the base.

Regarding concern #2, I decided to go with Apoxie Sculpt to build around the islands and to make the pond’s edge. Once cured, I had my basic structure to hold the pond.

Early edging around the pond.
After all the Apoxie Sculpt was applied by February 10th. Note the entire base is covered except for the islands.

I did not want any white edges to show underneath the terrain piece. So, I flipped it over and primed the bottom edges brown.

Priming the bottom.

I flipped it over again so that it rested normally on its bottom. Concern #3 still loomed. My solution was to mix equal parts of wood glue and primer and paint the piece with that slurry. I used four different primers and the glue to paint the pond bottom and island edges. This helped to create a shoreline to depth look. Then I flocked the pond’s edge with Woodland Scenics blended turf and the wood glue.

My mixing supplies to seal the pond base.

The primed structure is shown below. I hoped that this would work and protect against the “Still Water”.

Apoxie sculpt painted with the primers and wood glue mix – on February 11th.

Once it all dried, I reapplied a coating of wood glue over the pond’s edge flocking. This helped to harden it up. It also kept loose flocking from contaminating the future water surface. I then added all-purpose sand to the islands with the wood glue. I let that dry before I extensively vacuumed the surface and edges of the pond. This was to remove all loose materials, again to protect the water.

Applying the sand and extra wood glue.
And more drying time!
The islands sand is dry here on February 14th – and the edges would continue to darken (thankfully).

It was time to apply the cattails into the base. Luckily, it was easy to use an awl to punch holes through the Apoxie Sculpt and into the foam core board underneath. I did that, and used more wood glue to secure the cattails. Then I had more drying time to wait out…

Cattails inserted.
Close up of the cattails in the base.

The sand on the islands dried and was ready for adding pigments, so I did that. Meanwhile, I washed my plastic foliage for the islands. This removes any residual oils. This step allows me to throw some brown ink on them as a wash to add realism and some depth.

Pigments added and drying on February 14th..

Here is a short video showing my progress at this stage on Valentine’s Day:

It was time to add the foliage to the pond – as I wanted the water to be added close to the end. The process of adding the foliage was the same as adding the cattails, except that I needed to also go through the sand.

February 15th – foliage added, short view angle…
…and long angle.

Finally, it was time for the “Still Water”! I mixed it with two different inks. I continued mixing until I got the color that I wanted for a somewhat swampy pond (shown on list at the end of the post). The pond took two full 200 ml bottles of “Still Water” (not including ink). To maneuver it evenly around the pond without swamping the islands was like the ball maze game where you try to get a ball to fall in a hole on a table. Until it dried I was a bit anxious.

Setting up on February 15th!

Concerns #3 and #4 dealt with!

The slow set up of the “Still Water”.

You can see in the next video from February 16th that I needed to ball-maze-move the “Still Water” around. I did this for a while before it finally set. I did look out for bubbles as well and popped the ones I saw.

I did not use the lily pads that you saw in the video. When I tried to drill out to place them, the water surface gripped the bit. It started to torque a bit, so that was a no-go. Besides, these lily pads are basically wound wire and come apart when you try to clip them shorter. Instead, I went with adding some other swampy tufts from Green Stuff World.

Once this set up on February 17th, I was very happy with the result.

I now needed a box to transport this big piece! Luckily, I had earlier ordered a large rotating cutting mat from Amazon and saved the box that it came in. I used some foam board and hot glue to make a decent travel box that would protect the pond on the way to conventions.

February 17th – got a box!
And it fits!

I will be posting about TotalCon soon. Before doing that, I wanted to write this WIP post about the pond. From concept to travel box it took 8 days!

Hopefully, the lessons I shared here will help you if you are considering a similar project. My main takeaways are clear (I hope!).

Below I will list the materials I used in the project as well as some links that you might want to explore, but first a sneak preview of what the pond looked like on the tabletop on a 6′ x 4′ mat:

Next up, hopefully, will be a TotalCon 2026 recap.

References:

Check these out!

For a consolidated list of links for any of my previous scratch-building blog posts, please see this page: https://markamorin.com/scratch-building-projects/

For a consolidated list of links for any of my previous terrain project posts, please see this page: https://markamorin.com/terrain-projects/

For a consolidated list of links for any of my previous sci-fi/retro sci-fi posts, please see this page: https://markamorin.com/sci-fi-retro-sci-fi-projects/

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THIS POND:

  1. Foam Board – 20″ x 30″ x 3/16″ (50.8 cm x 76.2 cm x 0.47 cm)
  2. Sibe-R Plastic Supply℠ (10 Pack) .030″ X 8.5″ X 11″ White Styrene Sheets
  3. Hot Glue
  4. Apoxie Sculpt “White/Stone White”
  5. Titebond Wood Glue
  6. Citadel “Ryza Rust” (Dry)
  7. Vallejo Surface Primer “German Green Brown”
  8. Vallejo Surface Primer “Russian Green”
  9. Vallejo Primers “USA Olive Drab”
  10. Vallejo Primers “NATO Green”
  11. PVA Glue
  12. Gorilla Glue
  13. Vallejo Surface Primer “German Green Brown”
  14. Vallejo “Natural Umber” (pigment)
  15. Vallejo Surface Primer “Leather Brown”
  16. Woodland Scenics “Blended Turf”
  17. AK Terrains Muddy Ground Acrylic Diorama
  18. AK Terrains Wet Ground Acrylic Diorama
  19. All-purpose sand
  20. JTT “Cattails”
  21. Vallejo “Burnt Umber” (pigment)
  22. Vallejo “Natural Umber” (pigment)
  23. Vallejo “Light Sienna” (pigment)
  24. Vallejo “Natural Sienna” (pigment)
  25. Vallejo “Faded Olive Green” (pigment)
  26. Vallejo “Green Earth” (pigment)
  27. Vallejo “Light Yellow Ochre” (pigment)
  28. Vallejo “Chrome Oxide Green” (pigment)
  29. Vallejo Thinner
  30. Secret Weapon Washes “Sewer Water”
  31. Liquitex “Burnt Umber” (ink)
  32. Army Painter “Strong Tone” (wash/shade)
  33. FOIMAS 100 pcs Miniature Plant Set – Mini Trees, Flowers, Shrubs for Fairy Garden, Diorama, Train Scenery, Sand Architecture Model Craft Supply
  34. Vallejo Diorama FX “Still Water”
  35. Liquitex Professional Acrylic Ink 30 ml Bottle – Phthalo Blue Green Shade (ink)
  36. Daler-Rowney® FW Acrylic Artists’ Ink “Sap Green” (ink)
  37. Gamers Grass “6mm Strong Green Tufts” (flocking)
  38. Gamers Grass “XL Strong Green Tufts” (flocking)

Italian Armored Cars and Tank Destroyers for “Il Duce’s Desert Gamble”

In WWII, the Royal Italian Army was heavily engaged in the North African Campaign starting in June 1940. They fought first alone against the British and then in concert with Nazi Germany’s Afrika Korps after February 1941. The tide of battle ebbed and flowed across North Africa. The Italians and the Germans formed the Panzerarmee Afrika. They battled the British 8th Army in Egypt, Libya, and eventually Tunisia. There, along with US and UK troops from Operation Torch, Axis forces were driven from North Africa in May 1943. Shortly afterwards, in early July of 1943, Operation Husky – the invasion of Sicily – occurred. By the end of that month, Mussolini was ousted. Italy then requested a separate armistice and was out of the war. German forces seized any available Italian war materiel and continued to fight in Italy. Italy then was really in a state of civil war. Some Italian forces fought with the Allies. Others sided with the Germans. Partisan attacks were common – and continued even after the German surrender in April 1945.

I have found the Royal Italian Army and its equipment interesting. At HAVOC I had run a big North Africa What a Tanker game back in 2019. At this year’s HISTORICON, discussions with one of the players intrigued me. We talked about a “what if” scenario for a “What a Tanker” game where I could have the French defending against the Italians. Mulling that over the summer, I decided to do it! I call it “Il Duce’s Desert Gamble“.

It’s 1942 or 1943. Here, the Allies do not launch Operation Torch. Instead, with the USSR on the verge of collapse, they make the disastrous decision to launch Operation Sledgehammer . It fails miserably. The USSR seeks a separate peace with Germany. The British 8th Army is routed and German forces advance towards the Middle East and its oil fields. The US and UK are in no position militarily or logistically to try any invasion anywhere in Europe for years. The US refocuses on Japan and the Pacific.

Meanwhile, Mussolini sees an opportunity to further his vision of a new Roman Empire that would dominate the Mediterranean. He sees France’s colonies as ripe for the taking, and gains Hitler’s assent to take them. This sets up my desert battle scenario between Vichy French armor and the Italians.

In preparation for the game – I have enough French from my Operation Torch game. I did however need to augment the Italians.

My Italian armor before this project.

Specifically, I wanted to give them some armored cars. These include the Autoblinda Fiat-Ansaldo 41, also known as AB 41. I also wanted to provide another newer and more powerful tank destroyer, the Semovente 90/53. I use 15mm/1:100 scale models for these games. I acquired a 4-vehicle platoon of the AB 41’s. Simultaneously, I bought a 4-vehicle battery of the Semovente 90/53’s. Both kits are from Battlefront (Flames of War).

The AB 41 had a 20mm Breda autocannon – similar to the Panzer II- with decent anti-armor penetration capabilities. Its armor was effective against infantry small arms. 667 were built, and served everywhere the Royal Italian Army fought. It served also post-war until the mid-1950’s.

The Semovente 90/53 was built too late and in too few a quantity (only 30 were ever built) to see much WWII action. It had some (not much) experience in North Africa and Sicily under Italian control. The Germans also used seized examples. It’s design was inspired by the Italian experience on the Eastern front. The Italians there found that they had no way of stopping T-34’s or other more modern armor. It took a 90mm cannonne da 90/53 anti-aircraft gun and put it on an M14/41 tank chassis. The gunners would be exposed as they were behind a mantlet. It also needed an L6 tank modified to carry its ammunition. It’s armor penetration was impressive and any Allied tank it faced was vulnerable even at long range. I have decided to forego using any L6 tanks as ammo carriers for the game. I’ll just assume they are there. I’m also assuming that these would have been available in sufficient numbers for my game scenario in the absence of the Italian Armistice. Just one survives to this day at Fort Sill here.

An interesting aside note – 12 of the same type of anti-aircraft gun were taken from the Italian battleship Vittorio Veneto. These guns were awarded to Yugoslavia as war reparations. I remember playing with that ship’s token in Avalon Hill’s War at Sea game as a kid. That they ended up firing in 1991 is somewhat odd!

According to Wikipedia:

After the war, the twelve 90/53 guns from the Italian battleship Vittorio Veneto were assigned to Yugoslavia as a part of war reparations. They were mounted on a coastal artillery battery on island Žirje off Šibenik as a part of the Cold War defense strategy. These guns saw action in September 1991 during the Croatian War of Independence, deterring the Yugoslav People’s Army assault on Šibenik and blocking 34 Yugoslav Navy’s patrol boats and minesweepers which were later captured by Croatian forces in the inner harbor.

Reminiscing ended – back to the vehicles!

WIP Shots

The two kits as received.

As is my usual practice, I washed and scrubbed the components.

Ready for assembly.

I assembled and painted the tracks, wheels, crews, mantlets, and chassis separately. Battlefront has a page on assembling the Semovente which was helpful.

Screenshot

That model was not so easy to work on – mainly the crew and weapon mounting. I ended up using green stuff on the fiddly mantlets. I did paint the crew of the Semovente’s – though no one will ever see their faces! As for the commanders of the AB 41’s – I used three different poses plus one with the hatch shut.

I mounted the vehicles on their bases as shown below. Once painted, I applied decals for better tabletop recognition (for the players).

I shaded the AB 41’s. I applied decals on the vehicles and pigments to some texture paints on the bases. All paints and more that I used are listed at the end of this post.

I airbrushed the camouflage pattern on the Semovente’s.

At this point, the models were finished!

Let’s now see some eye candy of the models.

AB 41

AB 41 frontal view
AB 41 right side
AB 41 rear view

Lastly, close up shots of the 4. Note that they all have different decals on their turrets.

Semovente da 90/53

Semovente da 90/53 left view
Semovente da 90/53 frontal view
Semovente da 90/53 right side view
Semovente da 90/53 rear view showing gunners

Lastly, close up shots of the 4. Note that they all have different decals on their mantlets.

These will be on the tabletop at Cold Wars, TotalCon, and other upcoming conventions. Please let me know your thoughts and feedback in the comments section. Thanks in advance for your input. As always, thanks for reading.

For all of my posts on WWII games and projects, there is a consolidated list. You can find the posts and their links located here.

MATERIALS USED

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS AND FLOCKING USED ON THE FOUR BATTLEFRONT/FLAMES OF WAR AB 41 ARMORED CAR MODELS

  1. Green Stuff
  2. Gorilla Glue
  3. War Games Accessories Steel Bases Number FOW 3 (2″ x 2½”)
  4. Neodymium magnets (⅛”)
  5. Vallejo Primers “Desert Tan”
  6. Vallejo Surface Primer “Panzer Grey”
  7. Vallejo Model Color “Dark Sand”
  8. Vallejo “Thinner Medium”
  9. Vallejo Model Air “Tire Black”
  10. Vallejo Model Color “Dark Prussian Blue”
  11. Vallejo Model Air “Rust”
  12. P3 “Midland Flesh”
  13. P3 “Flesh Wash”
  14. Citadel “Tallarn Sand”
  15. Reaper MSP Core Colors “Pure Black”
  16. Vallejo Model Air “Dark Brown”
  17. Battlefront “Worn Canvas”
  18. FolkArt “Champagne”
  19. Vallejo Thinner
  20. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  21. Citadel “Armageddon Dust” (texture)
  22. Army Painter “Light Tone” (wash)
  23. Vallejo “Dark Yellow Ochre” (pigment)
  24. Vallejo “Light Yellow Ochre” (pigment)
  25. Vallejo “Light Sienna” (pigment)
  26. Vallejo “Pigment Binder”
  27. Microscale Industries “Liquid Decal Film”
  28. Flames of War Italian Decal Set (IT940)
  29. Microscale Industries “Micro Set”
  30. Microscale Industries “Micro Sol”
  31. Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Matte Varnish”
  32. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “6mm Pink Sunset” (flocking)
  33. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “4mm Badlands Tufts” (flocking)
  34. Gamers Grass “Tiny Beige 2mm Tufts” (flocking)
  35. PVA Glue
  36. Printed labels on card stock
  37. Small talus

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS AND FLOCKING USED ON THE FOUR BATTLEFRONT/FLAMES OF WAR SEMOVENTE DA 90/53 MODELS

  1. Green Stuff
  2. Gorilla Glue
  3. War Games Accessories Steel Bases Number FOW 3 (2″ x 2½”)
  4. Vallejo Primers “Desert Tan”
  5. Vallejo Surface Primer “Panzer Grey”
  6. Vallejo Model Color “Dark Sand”
  7. Vallejo “Thinner Medium”
  8. Vallejo Model Color “Dark Prussian Blue”
  9. Vallejo Mecha Color “Steel”
  10. Vallejo Mecha Weathering ” Dark Rust Wash” (wash)
  11. Vallejo Model Air “Gun Metal”
  12. P3 “Midland Flesh”
  13. P3 “Flesh Wash”
  14. Army Painter “Dark Tone” (wash)
  15. Vallejo Model Color “Japanese Uniform WWII”
  16. Citadel “Karak Stone”
  17. Citadel “Tallarn Sand”
  18. Battlefront “Worn Canvas”
  19. Army Painter Speed Paint 1.0 “Pallid Bone”
  20. Reaper MSP Core Colors “Pure Black”
  21. Battlefront “Boot Brown”
  22. Vallejo Model Air “Rust”
  23. Vallejo Thinner
  24. Citadel “Armageddon Dust” (texture)
  25. Army Painter “Light Tone” (wash)
  26. Wooden Blocks, steel bolts, steel washers, nails, magnets, steel screws
  27. Vallejo “Dark Yellow Ochre” (pigment)
  28. Vallejo “Light Yellow Ochre” (pigment)
  29. Vallejo “Light Sienna” (pigment)
  30. Vallejo “Pigment Binder”
  31. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  32. Vallejo “Light Sienna” (pigment)
  33. Vallejo “Pigment Binder”
  34. Microscale Industries “Liquid Decal Film”
  35. Flames of War Italian Decal Set (IT940)
  36. Microscale Industries “Micro Set”
  37. Microscale Industries “Micro Sol”
  38. Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Matte Varnish”
  39. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “6mm Pink Sunset” (flocking)
  40. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “4mm Badlands Tufts” (flocking)
  41. PVA Glue
  42. Printed labels on card stock
  43. Small talus

My 2024 “Life, Golf, Miniatures & Other Distractions” Roundup

It’s that time again – when I review the past year and reflect a bit and look towards 2025. I do like to see what I did versus the goals that I set out to accomplish for myself back in January of 2024. 

This post will also be where I set my 2025 goals for Life, Golf, Miniatures, & Other Distractions (after all that is the subject of this blog of mine since 2015). I use these goals to guide and motivate me, but I have seen that others can appreciate this type of post. 2023 was, like 2022, one very busy year on multiple hobby, golf, and life fronts. I did set some pretty aggressive goals for all aspects. Some were around gaming, some around hobby production, some were around golf, and more.

How did I do versus my 2024 goals?

Paint 365 figures or more

I thought that would be a stretch – but in the end I destroyed that particular benchmark, setting yet another personal high for the number of miniatures painted in one year ever. These were mostly figures for Wars of Ozz.  I managed to paint 556 miniatures – 126 more than I did in 2023!

2024 Production
2023 Production

Complete 2 brigades of Quadlings for Wars of Ozz

My Quadlings at HAVOC in 2024

I’ll give myself a B+ here, as I painted up all the Quadlings that I currently have – 3 regiments of infantry, 2 batteries of artillery, one witch, and 3 individuals that can be brigade or army commanders. That is 79 figures in total, 1.24 25-point brigades’ worth. At some point I’ll get the Quadlings some cavalry.

Complete a brigade of Whim Whim & Noobi for Wars of Ozz

Whim Whim infantry and cavalry engage King Jack and his Great Pumpkinheads at EllisCon 2024

I think I get an A+ here as I painted up all my Whim Whim and Noobi in 2024. That army now is made up of of 7 regiments of infantry (5 Whim Whim, 2 Noobi), 4 cavalry regiments (all Whim Whim), 3 wizards (2 Noobi, 1 Whim Whim), and 7 individuals/leaders. I painted all of these except for 1 bannerman which was a gift from Buck Surdu. That is 216 figures in total, nearly three 25-point brigades’ worth, making them the largest painted contingent in my collection at present.

Complete a brigade of Temujicans for Wars of Ozz

I think I get another A+ here as I painted up all my Temujicans in 2024. That army now is made up of of 5 regiments of infantry, 4 cavalry regiments, and 3 individuals/leaders. That is 142 figures in total, exactly two 25-point brigades’ worth, making them worthy opponents for the Whim Whim.

Continue to run and play more games – and continue tracking them too

I ran a total of 30 games (all Wars of Ozz) in 2024 as a GM(I think I get an A+ as that is nuts). As for games played, I get a C- as I only played in 6 games.

Attend and run games at conventions. This would include TotalCon38, HAVOC, COLD BARRAGE, MAYHEM, HUZZAH!, HMGS Fall In, EllisCon, and others…

2024 Dave Award winner!
2024 Best of Convention Award
Right after getting the HUZZAH! Award with happy players!

My 30 games that I GM’d came from these conventions. I was proud to have been awarded not one but TWO best of convention awards – one for HAVOC (the Award) and one for HUZZAH! So at least an A…ok A++😁

Complete one more scenario for my scenario booklet for Civilizations Collide

Total F here – never got to it.

Paint up a platoon from Wargames Supply Dump for Combat Patrol™ 

Total F here again – and sorry yet again Roger! With Ozz being a priority, I never got to it.

Try to get my Nomonhan WaT project off the ground. Note I said “try”. Again…

Same as last year…F. Maybe this year.

Get the Mass Pikemen more active

I have not been able to do this well at all. I do see many at conventions, which occupy a lot of my winter time. Once golf season starts, that takes precedence. I’ll try better this year.

Have another nice trip to Florida

I think A++ – our trip was amazing to Clearwater Beach and Orlando was a blast!

At the JW Marriott in Clearwater Beach
Great hotel – the previous photo was taken from the balcony in the middle.
Took the previous photo from Captain Memo’s Pirate Ship ride – was a LOT of fun.
Had a great time hanging out with Tod and Tara Jeffers in Clearwater Beach. This place had amazing seafood.
Then on to the Grande Vista in Orlando for golf lessons, golf, and relaxation!
Lynn’s “favorite”sign at Grande Vista
Action shot on the range! Hit the ball first then the turf!
Even got to visit with the Surdu’s. I joined Buck for a Napoleonic game.

Post on the blog 50 times or more – make them of good quality

I think I get a B- here, as I think my output dropped a bit. I made 32 posts in 2024. Quality – well I let the readers determine that!

Be a good blog follower – still a goal but one that I cannot measure!

Ditto on this grade-wise – trying my best.

Have multiple Zoom chats with fellow hobbyists

Probably a C. Could do more and hope to this year.

Go to a golf school and get my golf handicap down below 16

My 2024 Handicap Review from Massachusetts golf.

As shown earlier , I did go to a golf school in Orlando -AND benefited greatly from lessons there. But, I think I made more progress with our club pro, Jim LeBlanc at Quail Hollow Golf and Country Club. My handicap went down to 16.1, so I’ll give myself an A-.

Update the Tour of the Brookfields on my blog.

Tom Orszulak and Lynn Morin high-five at the Tour of the Brookfields!

This worked very well at sharing information with the players and documenting each of the six regular tournaments and the FINALS. I think A is appropriate.

Play golf (in season) at least twice a week – get in 80 rounds

A+ here – as you saw, I had 102 rounds posted (some were 9-hole rounds of course), plus around 10 other events of 18 holes (scrambles).

Win my flight in the Club Championship

Fell short here again, but I was more competitive than in 2023. Bad play on Day 2 sunk me.

Defend in the Club Derby

That definitely did not happen – my partner Tom Orszulak had an injury, and the virus finally got me and knocked me out of any possibility of playing.

No golf that weekend…and it SUCKED.

Be a competitive golfer

I’d say I was – I did tie Matt Stepanski for 1st place in the year-long quest for the Quail Hollow Sunday Sweeps “Fedex Cup” run by Dennis Rice. I think I was competitive overall – helped by a dropping handicap.

Be a good friend

I guess so. Always a work in progress!

Personal Highs in 2024

  1. Recovery from knee surgery.
  2. For the third year in a row – the Florida trip and golfing with my wife Lynn – and she continues to get better. Her teams actually did better in the Tour of the Brookfields than I did!
  3. Clearwater Beach, Florida. Wow!
  4. Getting together with the Jeffers and Surdus in Florida.
  5. Getting together with family especially my Mom, my daughter Ellen and my granddaughter Tabitha.
  6. Winning my first “Dave” award for my Wars of Ozz game “determined to be the best game at the HAVOC (Convention) that year. The criteria for the best game includes excellent concept and execution in game play, and player enjoyment.”
  7. Winning my first “Best in Convention” award for my Wars of Ozz games at the HUZZAH! Convention in Maine.
  8. Knocking out 556 figures for the Wars of Ozz!
  9. Having EXCELLENT wingmen in Brad Gosselin and Leif Magnuson at MULTIPLE conventions.
  10. Getting together with Dave Wood, Buck Surdu, Greg Priebe, Chris Palmer, and Duncan Adams, Eric Schlegel, and all of the other HAWKS in person.
  11. Getting together with Fitchburg High School buddies Bob McNamara, Phil Schoenig, Peter Collette, and St. Bernard’s HS pals Mike Sullivan, and Eddie Tarka (and Tom Orszulak) to honor our late friend Leo Thibault, who passed away way too young back in 2007. Best part was getting his widow Sandy there to surprise us all at the end.
  12. Being on the Committees for the Tour of the Brookfields tournaments and the New England Service Academy golf tournaments.
  13. Amazing Halloween Party at Quail Hollow!
  14. Great get together for an Army-Navy game watch party with amazing friends!
  15. As a team, tying for first place for the Fedex Cup at Quail Hollow.
  16. And again, being with my wife Lynn, every day (seriously, and she won’t likely read this).
  17. Retirement is GREAT!
Ed Tarka, Bob McNamara, Phil Schoenig, me, Sandi Thibault, Mike Sullivan and Peter Collette at “The Leo”
Halloween party!
Army-Navy Game Watch Party
Lynn and Tabitha – fun at Cracker Barrel!
Me, Lynn, my Mom, Tabitha, Ellen, and Nick

Personal Lows for 2024

  1. COVID. 
  2. Army losing to Navy…not personal, but always feels that way!
  3. Life’s been pretty good otherwise!

My goals for 2025

Well, its time to set my Life, Golf, Miniatures, & Other Distractions goals for 2025.

  1. Have a great Florida trip again.
  2. Paint 500 figures or more.
  3. Continue to run and play more games – and continue tracking them too.
  4. Attend and run games at conventions. This would include TotalCon, HAVOC, COLD BARRAGE, HMGS COLD WARS, MAYHEM, HUZZAH!, HMGS HISTORICON,HMGS FALL IN, EllisCon, and others…
  5. Get the Mass Pikemen more active.
  6. .Complete the Musculite faction for Wars of Ozz.
  7. Complete the Professor Nitpik faction for Wars of Ozz.
  8. Complete the Ix faction for Wars of Ozz.
  9. Complete the Noland faction for Wars of Ozz.
  10. Paint up a cavalry regiment for the Harvest and the Quadling factions.
  11. Complete one more scenario for my scenario booklet for Civilizations Collide.
  12. Paint up a platoon from Wargames Supply Dump for Combat Patrol™ .
  13. Try to get my Nomonhan WaT project off the ground. Note I said “try”. Again.
  14. Paint SOME tanks.
  15. Post on the blog 40 times or more – make them of good quality.
  16. Be a good blog follower – still a goal but one that I cannot measure!
  17. Have some Zoom chats with fellow hobbyists.
  18. Get my golf handicap down below 14.
  19. Update the Tour of the Brookfields on my blog.
  20. Play golf (in season) at least twice a week – get in 90+ rounds.
  21. Win my flight in the Club Championship.
  22. Win the Club Derby
  23. Be a competitive golfer.
  24. Be a good friend.

Of course, again I must say THANK YOU to all who make the time to read this blog and comment on my stuff, craziness, and madness – Have a Happy 2025!

And now – time to get on it Mark!

Oh yeah, need more of this…

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