Sound the Trumpets and Bang the Drums! 4 Regiments of Temujican Infantry have mobilized (Wars of Ozz)

The first question that I am sure that you have is – “what the hell is a Temujican?“!

To answer that, let’s ponder the wild and wonderful world of the Wars of Ozz for a minute. Recently, my posts have shown the mighty Whim Whim and their leader, Sultan Whim. While the Whim Whim are indeed a force to be reckoned with in the Great Impassable Desert of the South- they do face a rival force in the Temujicans. These green-skinned desert nomads are cousins of the Gillikins (and are somewhat goblin-like).

Map of Ozz

As for the name “Temujicans”, it has an origin, and I had a hand in it. When the force was launched they were called “Eastern Desert” nomads. Rather mundane to be sure. The great Buck Surdu challenged several of us to come up with a better name that would evoke a historical reference for a cavalry-based force that could sweep across plains and deserts. My first thoughts went to considerations of the history of Genghis Khan:

Genghis Khan

Genghis Khan[a] (born Temüjin; c. 1162 – August 1227), also known as Chinggis Khan,[b] was the founder and first khan of the Mongol Empire. After spending most of his life uniting the Mongol tribes, he launched a series of military campaigns, conquering large parts of China and Central Asia.

From Wikipedia, “Genghis Khan”, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genghis_Khan

Now you see. As he was born “Temujin”, and the Gillikins were their cousins, I came up with the name “Temujicans”. Thus this was adopted as the official name of the faction! I contributed!

In any case, I decided to start building my Temujican army with the four infantry regiments I had. While in the game they are more cavalry-oriented – I decided that starting with infantry was a reasonable way to get going on the faction. Like the Whim Whim, the Temujicans do not have artillery or musketry.

As cousins of the Gillikins, they do have access to units of “Mercenary Gillikin Longbows”, which are SKU OZZ-409. I had two of these regiments to paint. I also had two other infantry regiments of “Infantry with Command – Unknown Immortals”, which are SKU OZZ-533. All four regiments have 21 figures each for a total of 84 figures for this post. All are metal and 28mm – though both Gillikins and Temujicans are somewhat diminutive in stature. They are bigger than Munchkins though. The Unknown Immortals, have their faces hidden, and all have the same pose except for the leader, drummer and regimental commander. The MGL’s have multiple poses.

Both types are armed with bows, but the Mercenary Gillikins have longbows (regiments hereafter referred to as MGL). An advantage for the MGL’s is that longbows can fire over intervening troops. The Unknown Immortals have bows and spears.

The MGL’s cost 5 points apiece – and have values for Marksmanship, Melee, Resolve, and Elan of 6/10, 5/10, 6/10, and 5/10. Each brigade can have up to two of them. The Unknown Immortals cost 6 points and have similar values for Marksmanship, Melee, Resolve, and Elan of 6/10, 5/10, 5/10, and 6/10. There can be up to two regiments of Unknown Immortals in a Temujican brigade.

So why are Temujicans green skinned? In Wars of Ozz, all races, to include Gillikins and Temujicans, were affected by the viruses and mutagenics released in the Last Great War. One of those effects was mutation of humans (and others) into different races. Another was the effect of “color mania” – with different factions being affected differently. While the Army lists (found here) describe the Temujicans as being outfitted in different sandy and brown shades, I thought they must have some residual affinity for purples as the Gillikins do. Hence, I decided to use some magenta and purple colors on them. I also used some darker bronze for some of the metallics like buttons and badges. You will also notice some neon colors like yellow and yellow/orange as liners and shield colors. Additionally, like I did with the Whim Whim, I tried to have common colors among the units designated as 1st or 2nd. I did this so as to manage to make sense on the tabletop as I deploy brigades. This will be more clear after you see some photos, so let’s start with WIP shots and discussions

WIP Discussion and how the Project Progressed

I started back on October 14th, and finished all on November 2nd. In between all this I had several golf events plus a costume party! More on those in a bit. While there were 84 figures in total – the Immortals had each a shield, a bow holder, and a quiver.

First, I needed to do lots of filing!

The Unknown Immortals regiments in prep.
Close up of the sprue that held the Immortal’s bow holder/sword handle combination, and a quiver with arrows.

Then it was on to washing and organizing it all:

All pieces for this Temujican infantry project filed, washed, and ready for assembly/painting on October 15th.

By October 24th I had made some progress on the accouterments and the figures.

As I mentioned, there was golf and Halloween too. I did end up shooting an 84 on my home course – which was a personal best – plus coming in tied for first in the year-long contest at my club – but I digress…

Plus for Halloween we had a nice visit from Elsa (aka Tabitha my granddaughter):

My daughter Ellen, Tabitha (as Elsa), and my wife Lynn

Then our Halloween party saw this couple (us) as Gru and a Minion:

Gru and his minion

Back to the Temujicans!

By October 29th, I was nearly finished with initial painting and assemblies:

Basing work on the figures followed:

Gluing the figures down AND SURGICALLY covering the bases with the sand paste and rocks took some time. I did not want a mess on the paint jobs, so typically I glued down 3 out of 4 of the figures first, then applied the paste, then added the final figure. Below you’ll see that after the paste dried, I added pigments to the bases. One regiment has no pigments as a comparator. I really like the effect of the three pigments I use on the sand paste – and recommend their use if you want a desert look.

Bases showing 3/4 with pigments.

Then I varnished the lot with an airbrush, and once that dried I added flocking tufts and rocks.

All the paints that I used are listed at the end of this post – but let’s share some…

Eye Candy

1st Mercenary Gillikin Regiment

1st Gillikin Mercenary Longbow Regiment in line formation. Their coats are reddish brown with a sallow yellow/orange liner.
1st Gillikin Mercenary Longbow Regimental Commander. Note the magenta bicorne hat.
Typical stand of the 1st Gillikin Mercenary Longbow Regiment.
Command stand of the 1st Gillikin Mercenary Longbow Regiment.
1st Gillikin Mercenary Longbow Regiment in column formation.

2nd Mercenary Gillikin Regiment

2nd Gillikin Mercenary Longbow Regiment in line formation. The coats are a sandy brown with neon yellow/greenish lining.
1st Gillikin Mercenary Longbow Regimental Commander. Note the purple bicorne hat.
Typical stand of the 2nd Gillikin Mercenary Longbow Regiment.
Command stand of the 2nd Gillikin Mercenary Longbow Regiment.
2nd Gillikin Mercenary Longbow Regiment in column formation.

1st Temujican Unknown Immortals Regiment

1st Temujican Unknown Immortals Regiment in line formation. Their coats are greenish brown. Their shields have alternating chevron colors of green (for Temujicans flesh color) and sallow yellow/orange.
1st Temujican Unknown Immortals Regimental Commander. Note the magenta bicorne hat.
Typical stand of the 1st Temujican Unknown Immortals Regiment.
Command stand of the 1st Temujican Unknown Immortals Regiment.
1st Temujican Unknown Immortals Regiment in column formation.

2nd Temujican Unknown Immortals Regiment

2nd Temujican Unknown Immortals Regiment in line formation.
2nd Temujican Unknown Immortals Regimental Commander. Note the purple bicorne hat.
Typical stand of the 2nd Temujican Unknown Immortals Regiment.
2nd Temujican Unknown Immortals Regiment in column formation. I thought this showed the command stand pretty well.

Group Shots

Here are some group shots of all of the 4 regiments:

Video

Lastly, here is a very short video I took of all 4 regiments that is nice:

Alternatively, I did post the same video on Instagram with some music from Thin Lizzy:

I did think about how many “points” IRO or Wudugast would have given me for these 84 goblinoids for their “Orktober” painting extravaganza (if I was in it), but that’s more curiosity than anything else. Plus I really took until November 2nd to finish. Given that my 1984 West Point class was having our 40th reunion during that (last) weekend (which I did not attend) AND that Army beat Air Force in football too (which I did watch) – I did get to remember my 84 class with finishing these 84 figures.

So next I am on to the Temujican cavalry. I have two regiments of heavy and three of light, plus three brigade commanders to do. Onwards!

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THE TWO REGIMENTS OF MERCENARY GILLIKIN LONGBOWMEN:

  1. Square MDF Brigade Leader bases from Wars of Ozz Miniatures (used as regimental commander bases)
  2. Wargames Accessories number 21 bases (2″ square steel bases)
  3. Wargames Accessories number 17 (1.5″ X 1″ steel bases)
  4. Pendraken 12mm dice frames
  5. Elmer’s PVA Glue
  6. Paper clip wire
  7. Gorilla Glue
  8. Vallejo Game Ink “Brown”
  9. Popsicle sticks
  10. Alligator clip painting base
  11. Vallejo Mecha Primer “White”
  12. Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
  13. Army Painter “Dark Tone” (wash)
  14. Green Sharpie pen
  15. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Doomfire Magenta”
  16. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Luxion Purple”
  17. Vallejo Model Color “Wood Grain”
  18. Vallejo Model Color “Off White”
  19. Vallejo “Thinner Medium”
  20. Vallejo Model Air “Wood”
  21. Hataka “Beige”
  22. Battlefront “Military Khaki”
  23. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Hardened Leather 1.0”
  24. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Contrast Medium”
  25. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Aged Hide 2.0”
  26. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Sand Golem 1.0”
  27. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Gore Grunta Fur”
  28. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Dusk Red 2.0”
  29. Vallejo Model Air “Black” (metallic)
  30. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Hoard Bronze 2.0”
  31. Vallejo Model Color “English Uniform”
  32. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Gravelord Grey 1.0”
  33. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Apothecary White”
  34. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Ghoul Green 2.0”
  35. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Pallid Bone 1.0”
  36. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Bony Matter 2.0”
  37. Vallejo Game Ink “Yellow”
  38. Army Painter “Light Tone” (wash/shade)
  39. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Desolate Brown 2.0”
  40. Citadel “Ushabti Bone”
  41. Hobby talus
  42. Small stones
  43. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Aggaros Dunes”
  44. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Ratling Grime”
  45. Citadel “Runefang Steel”
  46. Poster tack and specimen jars
  47. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures Earth Works Dirt Colors “Sand Dust” (texture/basing paste)
  48. Vallejo “Dark Yellow Ochre” (pigment)
  49. Vallejo “Light Yellow Ochre” (pigment)
  50. Vallejo “Desert Dust” (pigment)
  51. Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Gloss Varnish”
  52. Vallejo “Flow Improver”
  53. Vallejo Premium Color Airbrush Varnish “Matte”
  54. Army Painter “Battlefield Rocks” (flocking)
  55. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “4mm Badlands Tufts” (flocking)
  56. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “6mm Scorched Earth Tufts” (flocking)
  57. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “6mm Nightmare Tufts” (flocking)
  58. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “6mm Pink Sunset” (flocking)
  59. Black Sharpie pen
  60. Brown Sharpie pen
  61. Temujican flag designs from Wars of Ozz Facebook page (printed on card stock)
  62. Card stock

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THESE TWO TEMUJICAN UNKNOWN IMMORTALS REGIMENTS:

  1. Square MDF Brigade Leader bases from Wars of Ozz Miniatures (used as regimental commander bases)
  2. Wargames Accessories number 21 bases (2″ square steel bases)
  3. Wargames Accessories number 17 (1.5″ X 1″ steel bases)
  4. Pendraken 12mm dice frames
  5. Elmer’s PVA Glue
  6. Paper clip wire
  7. Gorilla Glue
  8. Alligator clip painting base
  9. Popsicle sticks
  10. Poster tack and specimen jars
  11. Vallejo Game Ink “Brown”
  12. Vallejo Mecha Primer “White”
  13. Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
  14. Army Painter “Dark Tone” (wash)
  15. Green Sharpie pen
  16. Vallejo Model Color “Off White”
  17. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Doomfire Magenta”
  18. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Luxion Purple”
  19. Vallejo Model Color “Wood Grain”
  20. Vallejo “Thinner Medium”
  21. Vallejo Model Air “Wood”
  22. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Striking Scorpion Green”
  23. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Contrast Medium”
  24. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Zealot Yellow 1.0”
  25. Vallejo Model Air “Brown”
  26. Vallejo Model Air “Black” (metallic)
  27. Army Painter “Warpaints – Neon Yellow Air Fluorescent”
  28. Hataka “Beige”
  29. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Hardened Leather 1.0”
  30. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Sand Golem 1.0”
  31. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Gore Grunta Fur”
  32. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Hoard Bronze 2.0”
  33. Battlefront “Black”
  34. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Ruddy Fur 2.0”
  35. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Bony Matter 2.0”
  36. MSP “Brown Liner”
  37. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Ochre Clay 2.0”
  38. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Gravelord Grey 1.0”
  39. Citadel “Ushabti Bone”
  40. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Ghoul Green 2.0”
  41. Hobby talus
  42. Small stones
  43. Battlefront “Military Khaki”
  44. Battlefront “Worn Canvas”
  45. Citadel “Runefang Steel”
  46. Army Painter “Light Tone” (wash/shade)
  47. Citadel “Seraphim Sepia” (wash/shade)
  48. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Ratling Grime”
  49. Poster tack and specimen jars
  50. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures Earth Works Dirt Colors “Sand Dust” (texture/basing paste)
  51. Vallejo “Dark Yellow Ochre” (pigment)
  52. Vallejo “Light Yellow Ochre” (pigment)
  53. Vallejo “Desert Dust” (pigment)
  54. Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Gloss Varnish”
  55. Vallejo “Flow Improver”
  56. Vallejo Premium Color Airbrush Varnish “Matte”
  57. Army Painter “Battlefield Rocks” (flocking)
  58. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “4mm Badlands Tufts” (flocking)
  59. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “6mm Scorched Earth Tufts” (flocking)
  60. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “6mm Nightmare Tufts” (flocking)
  61. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “6mm Pink Sunset” (flocking)
  62. Black Sharpie pen
  63. Brown Sharpie pen
  64. Temujican flag designs from Wars of Ozz Facebook page (printed on card stock)
  65. Card stock

If you want to check out the excellent Wars of Ozz figures’ range – there are two places to get them and to get the rules (and I make no money from this btw). The game rules and the figures are available from the next two places:

In the US Old Glory has a site – Wars of Ozz Miniatures.

In the UK go to Sally 4th.

Thanks again for looking and hope to get more stuff done soon!

Lions, & Tigers, & Bears…OH MY! (Wars of Ozz)

I have not painted any Ozz figures since last month – and while I did run a Wars of Ozz game at the Hobby Bunker, and finished my Frost Ogres for WOOD, it was time to jump back on my Ozz stuff. I wanted to finish off my last Gillikin units – which are not really Gillikins but are aligned to them in the game as allies. These would be the Dire Lions (OZZ-500), Dire Tigers (OZZ-501), and Dire Bears (OZZ-502), all large intelligent beasts that normally fight alongside the Gillikins. They are listed in the “Allies and Mercenaries” section on the website, and in the rules are listed under the Gillikins as well as in the “Allies and Mercenaries section”.

These figures are all large enough to fit 1 figure apiece on a 2″ square base. They come 5 to a unit, are 28mm in scale (for giant beasts that is) and are resin and metal – and most needed some minor assembly and prep. Each grouping of five had two types of poses – one with the animals on their rear haunches in an attack position and one with three or four paws on the ground. After cleaning them, I used a blow dryer to heat the legs of the lunging ones and bend them so as to make them even taller. I also assembled those with metal heads in various and slightly different positions so they would be facing forward somewhat askew from each other.

A big difference with what I did with these figures versus my normal painting process was that I resolved to use my three airbrushes as much as possible. For priming and varnishing I used my Iwata Eclipse HP-CS with a 0.5mm needle. For large areas, I used my Iwata Neo with a 0.35mm needle. And for detail, I used my Iwata Custom Micron CM-B with a tiny 0.18mm needle. At the end of this post, I’ll share all the different paints, and other supplies that I used. I also did some detail work with regular brushes. My goal here was to airbrush as much of the figures as possible to achieve fur blending and a different level of detail.

As with all Ozz infantry units, they are based on 2″ square bases – so five bases for each regiment. There is no regimental commander for any of the units, but I did add a Pendraken dice frame to one base of each unit.

As one would expect, in the game,they are good melee troops across the board, with Melee values of 6/10, 6/10, 8/10, Resolve values of 5/10, 5/10, and 6/10, and Elan values of 6/10, 7/10, and 6/10 for the Dire Lions, Dire Tigers, and Dire Bears respectively. The Dire Lions are cheapest at 4 points, with the Dire Tigers and Dire Bears costing 5. All can move sideways or backwards with no movement costs, and all can pass through woods without any penalty.

I started these on September 4th and completed them on the 26th. I’ll share some WIP shots and then some eye candy pics below.

WIP Shots…

My first step was to have a decent painting plan – so I downloaded some photos of the animals as guides. Of course, the models differed slightly as befits Ozz, but a good start nonetheless. I primed the models all in white.

The figures primed in white and surrounded by the photos that I used as painting guides.

I initially decided to go with the painting order of “Lions, and Tigers, and Bears” for some reason…but I did apply a base coat to the bears before the tigers. When I painted the tigers, I kept hearing “Eye of the Tiger” in my head…

Early airbrush work on the lions and bears.

As for order of work though, I primarily stayed with the order with the lions first and the bears last with the tigers in the middle.

The Dire Lions mostly painted – less some highlights and washes.

Then, it was on to the Dire Tigers, where getting the right mix of orange, black, and white on the fur was really made easier with my airbrushes. They were also saber-toothed, which was a cool aspect of the sculpts.

First, I applied a base of orange with the Iwata Neo airbrush then white details with the Iwata Custom Micron airbrush – multiple coats were needed for blending.
Added white…
…then some black tiny stripes with the Micron.
Ready for faces!
Faces added with both brushwork and airbrush.

Next, I moved on to the Dire Bears. Here I wanted a brownish blended paint job – which sounds easier than it was.

I painted the mouths by hand, then proceeded to try to blend the fur on the Dire Bears to resemble grizzly bears.
After painting, this and the gallery below show the results before varnishing.

At that point, I could begin to finish the bases. The models’ bases on the steel bases were raised up and in some cases overlapping the 2″ steel bases. To level it all out, I used up an umopened box of black Milliput that I had hanging around -and ended up running out of it on my last Lion – so I used green stuff there on the last lion.

Base work time!
Bases all leveled out and ready for a coat of green to go under future flocking. Guess where the black Milliput ran out…
After varnishing with the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and ready for flocking!

Before I get to the eye candy – a brief and happy segue. I had a fun chat with Dave – (aka Guru from Guru PIGS blog down under in Australia). A wonderful package from Dave subsequently made the 10,470 mile trip to my home. What, pray tell, was in the package? Well, just a great collection of whimsical hand-made stuff! The most wonderfully Ozz-appropriate terrain, a “Mouse Metropolis”, along with a fun golf book (for you know I love golf). Thanks so much Dave, I look forward to incorporating this great collection into my games! I just have to figure out a boxing solution (which I will of course!). You can see Dave’s blog post on the Mouse Metropolis here. So much appreciated Dave, thank you! You are a gentleman and a scholar!

Wonderful!

Back to the dire beast models at hand – and the flocking. As Gillikins love purple, I added some purple flowers to each base, along with different grass ans grassy tufts to give an “beast in ambush mode” feel to the miniatures. Without further ado, let’s look at some…

Eye Candy

Dire Lions

Base 1

Base 2

Base 3

Base 4

Base 5

Dire Lions Group Shot

Dire Tigers

Base 1

Base 2

Base 3

Base 4

Base 5

Dire Tigers Group Shot

Dire Bears

Base 1

Base 2

Base 3

Base 4

Base 5

Dire Bears Group Shot

Dire Beasts Group Shots

I now have 2 regiments of Dire Bears, and one each of Dire Wolves, Dire Lions, and Dire Tigers – a Dire Beast Brigade!

All of my Dire Beasts in a Really Useful Box!

I hope that you found this somewhat post as interesting as I found painting these figures. I do have another Harvest unit to do, then some terrain and then maybe the Quadlings. I have 394 painted Ozz figures to date, and 200 this year alone.

And yes, I still have more to come…

Miscellaneous details and references for those interested in that sort of thing:

For all of my previous posts on Wars of Ozz games, figures, units, and other related projects – please see this page.

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THESE FIGURES:

Dire Lions

  1. 2″ square steel bases from Wargames Accessories (#21)
  2. Green Stuff (kneadatite)
  3. Poster tack
  4. Vallejo Mecha Surface Primer “White”
  5. Vallejo “Flow Improver”
  6. Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
  7. Vallejo Game Air “Beastly Brown”
  8. Vallejo Model Air “Wood”
  9. Citadel “Balor Brown Air”
  10. Vallejo Game Air “Black”
  11. Vallejo Game Air “Dead White”
  12. Createx “Pearl Copper”
  13. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Murder Scene”
  14. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Familiar Pink”
  15. Citadel “Ushabti Bone”
  16. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Volupus Pink”
  17. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Black”
  18. Vallejo Model Air “Light Brown”
  19. Vallejo “Thinner Medium”
  20. Vallejo “Glaze Medium”
  21. Army Painter “Light Tone” (wash/shade)
  22. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Basilicanum Grey”
  23. Citadel “Lamenters Yellow” (glaze)
  24. PS Model Color “British Brown Drab”
  25. Black Milliput
  26. Vallejo Varnish “Satin Varnish”
  27. Vallejo Varnish “Gloss Varnish”
  28. Vallejo Varnish “Matte Varnish”
  29. Elmer’s PVA Glue
  30. Army Painter “Battlefield Field Grass” (flocking)
  31. Pendraken 12mm dice frame
  32. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “12mm Jungle Tufts” (flocking)
  33. Gamer’s Grass “6mm Dense Green” (flocking)
  34. Army Painter “4mm Wilderness Tufts” (flocking)
  35. Gamer’s Grass “Autumn XL” (flocking)
  36. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “Dark Forest Plum Flowers” (flocking)
  37. Army Painter “Battlefield Field Grass” (flocking)

Dire Tigers

  1. 2″ square steel bases from Wargames Accessories (#21)
  2. Green Stuff (kneadatite)
  3. Poster tack
  4. Vallejo Mecha Surface Primer “White”
  5. Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
  6. Vallejo “Flow Improver”
  7. Vallejo Model Air “White Grey”
  8. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Murder Scene”
  9. Vallejo Game Air “Hot Orange”
  10. Vallejo Game Air “Black”
  11. Vallejo Game Air “Dead White”
  12. Vallejo Game Air “Beastly Brown”
  13. Createx “Pearl Copper”
  14. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Volupus Pink”
  15. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Familiar Pink”
  16. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Ironjawz Yellow”
  17. Army Painter “Light Tone” (wash/shade)
  18. PS Model Color “British Brown Drab”
  19. Black Milliput
  20. Vallejo Varnish “Satin Varnish”
  21. Vallejo Varnish “Gloss Varnish”
  22. Vallejo Varnish “Matte Varnish”
  23. Elmer’s PVA Glue
  24. Army Painter “Battlefield Field Grass” (flocking)
  25. Pendraken 12mm dice frame
  26. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “12mm Jungle Tufts” (flocking)
  27. Gamer’s Grass “6mm Dense Green” (flocking)
  28. Army Painter “4mm Wilderness Tufts” (flocking)
  29. Gamer’s Grass “Autumn XL” (flocking)
  30. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “Dark Forest Plum Flowers” (flocking)
  31. Army Painter “Battlefield Field Grass” (flocking)

Dire Bears

  1. 2″ square steel bases from Wargames Accessories (#21)
  2. Green Stuff (kneadatite)
  3. Poster tack
  4. Vallejo Mecha Surface Primer “White”
  5. Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
  6. Vallejo “Flow Improver”
  7. Vallejo Model Air “Dark Brown”
  8. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Murder Scene”
  9. Vallejo Game Air “Dead White”
  10. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Familiar Pink”
  11. Vallejo Model Air “Armour Brown”
  12. Vallejo Model Air “First Light”
  13. Vallejo Mecha Color “Brown”
  14. Vallejo Model Air “Light Brown”
  15. Vallejo Game Air “Black”
  16. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Ironjawz Yellow”
  17. Army Painter “Mid Brown” (wash/shade)
  18. Army Painter “Light Tone” (wash/shade)
  19. PS Model Color “British Brown Drab”
  20. Black Milliput
  21. Vallejo Varnish “Satin Varnish”
  22. Vallejo Varnish “Gloss Varnish”
  23. Vallejo Varnish “Matte Varnish”
  24. Elmer’s PVA Glue
  25. Army Painter “Battlefield Field Grass” (flocking)
  26. Pendraken 12mm dice frame
  27. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “12mm Jungle Tufts” (flocking)
  28. Gamer’s Grass “6mm Dense Green” (flocking)
  29. Army Painter “4mm Wilderness Tufts” (flocking)
  30. Gamer’s Grass “Autumn XL” (flocking)
  31. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “Dark Forest Plum Flowers” (flocking)
  32. Army Painter “Battlefield Field Grass” (flocking)

Again, as you may want to check out the Wars of Ozz figures’ range – there are two places to get them (and I make no money from this btw). The game rules and the figures are available from the following two places:

In the US Old Glory has a site – Wars of Ozz Miniatures.

In the UK go to Sally 4th.

Gillikin Mounted Officers on Goats (Wars of Ozz)

With regards to my available troops for Wars of Ozz games, I have pretty much gotten some of the main factions. I have Munchkins, Winkies, and a lot of Harvest. This is fine – except for the Gillikins and the Quadlings. I do have an unpainted Quadling Brigade that I got from Greg Priebe that is in my painting queue. What I did not have – until recently, was a Gillikin Brigade.

Gillikins soldiers and forces are more known as “the Imperial Gillikin Army”. Gillikins are humans who have mutated into the goblin-like inhabitants of Ozz after the Last Great War.

They serve under Arella the Witch, also known as the mistress of Beasts. She is the witch sister of Evora, the ruler of the rival Winkies. Theirs is indeed a fierce rivalry. Arella has subjugated multiple tribes of Gillikins, and created her Army. It is composed of four branches: Infantry, Cavalry, Beast, and Sorcerer League. The Infantry Branch is composed of units fashioned mostly after those of the Munchkins. The Munchkins had previously defeated Arella’s attempt at conquest, hence Arella’s desire to up her conquest game by copying her rival. The Cavalry Branch is made up of goat-riding Gillikins. The Beast Branch is composed of giant allied (or subjugated) intelligent animal units – such as Dire Lions, Dire Tigers, Dire Bears, (oh my)…as well as Dire Wolves. The Sorcerer League is made up of various lesser witches and wizards.

I have the Lions, the Dire Tigers, and the Dire Bears in my painting queue. And, as discussed on two of my previous game posts, here and here, I have been lucky enough to have been able to borrow Gillikins from my good friend Chris Comeau. But, I really needed to have some of my own. However, my current unpainted Ozz lead hill is already at nearly 400 figures – and I did not want to increase its size – or wait to get Gillikin troops.

Enter eBay. Several quite decently painted units – and really whole armies have come up on eBay for Wars of Ozz in the last few months. It is my understanding that they are part of an estate sale – but I could be mistaken. In any case, I was lucky enough to win the auction for the forces (7 regiments) below:

  • 2 Gillikin infantry regiments
  • 1 Gillikin longbow regiment
  • 1 Gillikin goat-rider cavalry regiment
  • 1 Gillikin light battery
  • 1 Dire Wolf regiment
  • 1 Dire Bear regiment
My new Gillikin army! (photo from eBay)

They are painted quite nicely, and despite the fact that they were sent from the UK, arrived in pretty good shape. I did need to repair a couple, and the bears needed a bit of a rehab paint job, but they were what I needed…

EXCEPT…

I had no brigade commanders or an Arella figure! Back to help from great friends, Greg Priebe had an extra OZZ-405 “Gillikin Mounted Officers on Goats” – and offered it to me as he did not plan on painting them in the near term. There were three officers mounted on goats and suitable for use as brigade commanders. The figures are metal, 28mm in scale, and came in two pieces. As for Arella, I would borrow that from Chris and then he gifted it to me! More on her in a future post.

With a Mass Pikemen Gaming Club Ozz game in the near future, I wanted, no I NEEDED to finish at least two of the three for my newly acquired Gillikins. I’ll share below the WIP process that I took and some eye candy of the finished paint jobs.

WIP Shots…

The Gillikin officers as received from Greg – in the original packaging. I use the 3″ x 5″ card to record which paints I use so that I can share them with you on my blog posts – (and so I can recreate similar painting schemes on future projects).

For mounting, I went with popsicle sticks instead of my usual specimen jars with poster tack. This made painting each half easier – especially as the legs are already on the mounts. I brush primed them, then let that cure. The following day, I gave everything a dark wash, then after sufficient drying time, dry brushed over the wash with white.

The figures after dry brushing.
Early painting progress.

I assembled them as shown below.

Then, I assembled the three MDF bases from Wars of Ozz miniatures. I use the round-edged front bases for brigade commanders and the rectangular ones for the regimental commanders – though that is reverse of what is on the website catalog. I find it to be an improvement, as the rectangular bases match up better against the units with square bases.

The MDF bases gluing.

After the glue on the MDF bases were dry, I added a brown ink wash to the outside to minimize the cut marks. This worked very well as the MDF drinks that up. Then I mounted the figures and prepped them for flocking.

Mounted the Gillikin offices and more waiting for glue to dry!

As previously, I varnished these with a single coat of satin followed by one of matte and let them dry. Once the varnish dried overnight, I glued the figures to the assembled MDF bases. And waited for more drying. And once that dried, I began serial flocking work.

Without further ado, here’s some Gillikin Mounted Officer…

Eye Candy

Officer 1

Officer 2

Officer 3

Group shots

I just got two of these into an Ozz game last weekend, but that recap will be in a few posts as I am a bit behind. Yes, I blame golf. Or rather my addiction to golf…stay tuned, I’ll get there…

Thanks again to Greg Priebe and Chris Comeau…and to Russ Dunaway and Buck Surdu for bringing this all to life. I’ll still need to get some witches for a Sorcerer’s League in due time…

I hope that you found these fun. Up next…some creepy and scary scarecrows for the Great Land of Harvest Army!

And yes, I still have more to come…

Miscellaneous details and references for those interested in that sort of thing:

For all of my previous posts on Wars of Ozz games, figures, units, and other related projects – please see this page.

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THESE GILLIKIN MOUNTED OFFICER FIGURES:

  1. Green stuff (kneadatite)
  2. Popsicle sticks
  3. Vallejo Mecha Surface Primer “White”
  4. Secret Weapon Washes “Heavy Body Black”
  5. Vallejo Model Color “White”
  6. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Ghoul Green”
  7. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Ratling Grime”
  8. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Contrast Medium”
  9. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Black Legion”
  10. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Bony Matter”
  11. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Sand Golem”
  12. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Luxion Purple”
  13. Vallejo Mecha Color “SZ Red”
  14. Battlefront “Black”
  15. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Baal Red”
  16. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Charming Chartreuse”
  17. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Purple Swarm”
  18. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Imperial Fist”
  19. Vallejo Mecha Color “Green Fluorescent”
  20. Martha Stewart Crafts “Pale Bronze”
  21. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Hardened Leather”
  22. Citadel “Warpfiend Grey”
  23. Hataka “Gris Claire Neutre”
  24. Reaper MSP Core Colors “Blackened Brown”
  25. Citadel “Ushabti Bone”
  26. Vallejo Model Air “Ivory”
  27. Vallejo Model Air “Gun Metal”
  28. Army Painter “Speed Paint – Broadsword Silver”
  29. Vallejo Model Color “Black Green”
  30. Vallejo Game Ink “Black Green”
  31. Vallejo Model Air “Bright Brass”
  32. Vallejo Game Ink “Yellow”
  33. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Apothecary White”
  34. Citadel “Seraphim Sepia” (wash)
  35. Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” (wash)
  36. Gorilla Glue
  37. PS Model Color “USAAF Olive Drab”
  38. Paper clip wire
  39. P3 “Brown Ink”
  40. Vallejo “Flow Improver”
  41. Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
  42. Vallejo Varnish “Satin Varnish”
  43. Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Matte Varnish”
  44. MDF bases from Wars of Ozz miniatures
  45. Wargames Accessories Steel Bases FOW#1
  46. Elmer’s PVA Glue
  47. Army Painter “Battlefields Grass Green” (flocking)
  48. Army Painter “Battlefield Field Grass” (flocking)
  49. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “6mm Lavender Flowers” (flocking)
  50. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “6mm Dark Forest – Purple Flowers” (flocking)
  51. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “6mm Dark Forest Plum Flowers” (flocking)
  52. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “12mm Wild Tufts” (flocking)
  53. Army Painter “Lowland Shrubs” (flocking)
  54. Gamer’s Grass “Green Meadow” (flocking)
  55. Army Painter “Battlefields Green Grass” (flocking)
  56. Gamer’s Grass “Wild” (flocking)
  57. Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “6mm Light Blue Tufts” (flocking)
  58. Army Painter “Meadow Flowers” (flocking)
  59. Small stones (flocking)
  60. Small oak twigs (flocking

Again, as you may want to check out the Wars of Ozz figures’ range – there are two places to get them (and I make no money from this btw). The game rules and the figures are available from the following two places:

In the US Old Glory has a site – Wars of Ozz Miniatures.

In the UK go to Sally 4th.

Meeting Engagement Rematch (Wars of Ozz)

As you saw in my last battle report, there was a game of Wars of Ozz between the Munchkins and the Gillikins. Chris’ Gillikins won 21-15. I wanted a rematch, and Chris Comeau agreed to one. We agreed to again use the meeting engagement scenario with random deployment zones as before. This post will show how this game went this time, mostly with pictures and a bit of narrative. It had a lot of excitement to be sure! We ended up playing in my cellar as opposed to the nice garage – as my wife was not feeling well and I wanted to be nearby in case she needed me.

As a side note, yes, this is a late post, but my wife Lynn and I had a subsequent unwanted medical “adventure” the day after this game – which I will describe at the end.

Back to the game – the forces were the same as last game. I did, however, end up drawing excellent characteristics for my two infantry regiments. The Zoraster’s Guard Infantry Regiment (ZGIR) was already the best musketry unit on the table – and I the “Well-Drilled” attribute which gained me an additional 2″ of range to both my long and short firing ranges. For Colonel Tik-Tok’s regiment – I got the “Impatient” characteristic which gave me first hit capability in melee. My Munchkin cavalry got the “Charismatic” attribute which only affects routing distance. My brigade commander drew the “Magical Protection” attribute which helps when your enemy has a witch nearby. My opponent was slightly less fortunate – as one of his two regiments drew the “Blind” attribute which hurt his marksmanship. His other infantry regiment drew a good attribute, “The Fortunate”, which allowed a reroll of a bad result during the game. His goat riders got “The Impetuous” attribute which improved their elan. I don’t remember his brigade commander’s attribute, but it was moderately positive. By the way, artillery batteries, allied units (like skeletons), and witches and wizards don’t get these bonuses.

The deployments were as shown below. The Munchkins are on the left and the Gillikins are on the right. I had my two Munchkin infantry regiments at opposite ends of the tabletop – one near my wizard and my medium battery – and one next to my cavalry. My opponent had a skeleton regiment screening one of his Gillikin infantry regiments on one end and his goat riders, medium battery, and the other infantry regiment on the other end.

The start – Munchkins to the left and Gillikins to the right.
Chris again used his skeletons to screen his Gillikin infantry. Here they advance with Arella the witch close by.
This time, I moved closer to the enemy. Here the ZGIR advances to engage the skeletons with musketry. Normally, skeletons are less vulnerable to musketry – lacking, well, organs.
The Gillikin Medium battery unlimbered and faced both the Munchkin cavalry and Colonel Tik-Tok. The “blind” Gillikin infantry shouldered their muskets in column and moved up quickly, with the goat riders to their left flank.
The Gillikin infantry moved up and into line formation, while the goat-riders went into column trying to close with the Munchkins quickly.
Meanwhile, I moved both the Munchkin Light Cavalry and Tik-Tok into line.

Then I decided to try to improve the ZGIR’s marksmanship with an “Uncanny Marksmanship” spell from Zoraster. This would raise my already strong marksmanship from a 7 to a 9 out of 10 hit probability at short range (on top of the increased range bonus)! As you may remember, a spell needs to roll under a spell level on a D10. Zoraster, with a level of 8, needed only to roll anything but an 8, 9, or 10. A 10 is a critical failure (which last game caused his head to explode). Sometimes a critical failure has a bizarre result that can be positive. In this game, I rolled a 10 no less than 7 times out of 12. With different dice!!!!

Luckily, this time the critical failure did not cause a head explosion, and I even got some good results. Below, I rolled my first of 7 critical failures (the zero) and got a 17 for the following result roll. This let the spell work, but lowered my spell rating to 7 for the remainder of the game. Which, when you roll 10, is largely irrelevant! In any case, my ZGIR was even more deadly – even to the point of negating the skeletons’ advantage versus my musketry.

A critical spell failure with a positive result – my best unit now hit 80% of the time (70% versus skeletons).
My Munchkin cavalry attempts to hit the Gillikin cavalry on the flank – exposing their flank to the Gillikin “blind” infantry and the Gillikin battery. They get only one hit and disorganize the goat riders.
Overview of battle at this point. The Munchkin Medium Battery aims to take out the Gillikin battery. You can see the other two fights here as well.
The Gillikin cavalry reacts and turns to face the Munchkin cavalry, which shortly after this got hit by both flanking infantry “blind” fire and in the rear from the Gillikin artillery. Not good for me.
After firing, the Gillikin infantry then tried to hit the Munchkin cavalry in the flank – and they moved away to the left to escape the trap before it could close – however now the enemy medium battery had another flank shot – which succeeded in routing the Munchkin pony riders for the second game in a row. This left Tik-Tok alone on this end of the tabletop facing three enemy units (but in a ray of sunshine as an omen perhaps?).
Flanking fire hitting the cav…
…and Munchkin cavalry routs yet again…
Meanwhile, the ZGIR was doing massive damage to the skeletons with musket fire.
In response, Arella the Witch successfully cast a “Raise the Dead” spell and raised a new and separate base of skeletons (from the casualty pile) to engage the Munchkin Medium Battery before it could hurt their own battery.
Undeterred, the ZGIR continued to pour lead down range and routed the skeletons through the close-following Gillikins, disorganizing them.
An overview of the battle at this point. The new skeleton base damaged the Munchkin battery, but it was also wiped out in the melee attempt. Arella then hit the battery with successive fireballs, and the Gillikin battery also pivoted and hit the enemy battery. Shortly thereafter, the Munchkin Battery would be wiped out. Shown here routing away are the both the Munchkin cavalry and the skeletons on opposite ends of the tabletop.

At this point in the game, I was down to my two infantry regiments, plus my wizard. The Gillikins had two infantry regiments, plus a medium battery, a damaged goat-rider regiment, and a witch.

Then, the Gillikin infantry tried to engage the ZGIR in a firefight. The ZGIR sent the Gillikins high-tailing after the already routed skeletons. Both Gillikin units would then would leave the game for safer places. Then Arella moved in to throw a fireball at the ZGIR from the rear. The Munchkins activated and performed an about face. Arella then activated and threw her fireball and missed. The ZGIR returned fire and took her out with one volley.
Arella right before her demise. Zoraster tried to throw a “Poor Luck” spell on her and – yes – rolled a 10. However, this critical failure resulted in a the gaining of a new one-base unit for the Munchkins – a giant bear! The bear immediately turned towards the beleaguered Tik-Tok regiment which was holding but getting surrounded.
Colonel Tik-Tok’s regiment with Gillikin Infantry to the front and badly damaged goat riders to the rear. The bear would aim to engage the goat riders.
The bear is coming to the rescue, oh my!

This move took the pressure off of Tik-Tok. The Gillikin cavalry was in no shape to close with the bear, but decided that that was better than being hit in the rear and routed. In the end, the bear base did its job before being eliminated, but the Gillikin Goat Riders routed nonetheless – having had enough for the day. The two infantry regiments got into melee with Tik-Tik getting the better of the exchange (being “Impatient” and getting the first hits in help a lot too). The Gillikin infantry now routed as well. This left only the Gillikin Medium Battery on the battlefield facing the two Munchkin infantry regiments – which closed in on it.

Rout the “‘blind” Gillikins! Tik-Tok holds!
An overview of the battle at this point – all Gillikins are routing away except the battery – which has two Munchkin Infantry regiments on each side of it – and bent on revenge.

In the end, it was the ZGIR which wiped out and overran the Gillikin battery, and won the game 21-18.

The Gillikin battery is wiped out and overran.

It was a good game – and I feel I was lucky to pull out the victory. Certainly the magic critical failures had us both laughing. I will be running two games similar to this at HAVOC in late March/early April.

As for our adventure, I had travelled to Shrewsbury (45 minutes away) for a 7 AM car service – while Lynn got a 10 AM doctor’s appointment at UMASS (40 minutes away) to see why she was having shooting pains in her back. My car took a while. Around 11 AM she texted me that the doctor ordered a “blood clot test” for her as that was a worry for her lungs. By the way, I hate texting but the lab was too crowded for her to speak clearly with me at that point. With my knowledge and background, I texted to ask what the name of the test was (she was unsure) and to ask/tell her not to leave the hospital until she got her results. Unfortunately, when Lynn asked the phlebotomist how long the results would take, and was told maybe an hour, maybe a day. I knew that a potential blood clot in the lung was a STAT situation, and that likely the test was a d-dimer (which I have had myself). In any case, she left and drove home – as I did and we arrived at home about 5 minutes apart around 1 PM.

Within 5 more minutes, she got both an email and a call to go to the ER as the d-dimer test was elevated. So we drove together to UMASS Memorial in Worcester, arriving at 1:51 PM in the waiting room or the ER. It was SWAMPED. We did not get into the medical area of the ER and a bed for her until after 6 PM. We waited for a CAT scan until 11:30 PM, and then a read. It was not sure if she was going to be admitted or not but the diagnosis was pneumonia. At this time they started IV antibiotics – BUT as I recently had had a bad sinus infection I was on and needed to take my own antibiotic dose (which was of course at home). So I left her, drove home, got my own pills, then got a call from Lynn that she was being discharged. I then drove back to Worcester, got her, got her late night McDonald’s (she had not eaten since the morning). We got home about 3:30 AM, at which point I’d been up for nearly 24 hours.

So, good news, she’s already better! Not a fun story, but one I’m glad worked out.

Anyways, I hope you liked the battle report – I should have a couple more posts for you this week on a couple other playtests and some jungle terrain that I built for a Maya convention game.

Meeting Engagement – Munchkins vs. Gillikins (Wars of Ozz)

Last Saturday (January 14th) I was lucky to be able to have a game of Wars of Ozz with my friend Chris Comeau. We had each built brigades for the game – I had a Munchkin brigade of 27 points, and Chris had a Gillikin Brigade of 27 points. It was my first Ozz game outside of a convention, and it was Chris’ first ever. We decided to use the “Meeting Engagement” scenario on page 93 (section 6.1.4) with no terrain so that we could focus on playing the game and familiarizing ourselves with the rules. As I said, I have played several Ozz games with others who are more familiar with the rules, but I thought we could get more out of a simple set up. We had hoped to play in the new garage, but a nasty coating of ice on the stairs outside forced us into my cellar.

For scoring, each infantry or cavalry base lost would count as a point for the opposition, as would each artillery or individual figure taken out.

I will attempt here to provide a “cinematic” account of a pretty cool game – pictures do it best – though my cellar’s lighting was not optimal. Click on the pictures for a better view.

The Order of Battle

Chris’ Gillikin Brigade consisted of 5 units, 1 individual (Arella), and a Brigade Commander:

  1. Arella the Witch (individual figure) – 3 points
  2. Gillikin Brigade Commander (free)
  3. Less-Well Trained Gillikin Infantry Regiment – 4 points
  4. Less-Well Trained Gillikin Infantry Regiment – 4 points
  5. Gillikin Medium Artillery Battery – 5 points
  6. Gillikin Cavalry Riding Goats – 6 points
  7. Skeleton Infantry Regiment – 5 points

Mark’s Munchkin Brigade consisted of 4 units, 1 individual (Zoraster), and a Brigade Commander (Munchkin Mayor):

  1. Zoraster the Wizard – 3 points
  2. Munchkin Brigade Commander (Munchkin Mayor) – free
  3. Zoraster’s Guard Infantry Regiment – 8 points
  4. Colonel Tik-Tok’s Infantry Regiment – 6 points
  5. Munchkin Light Cavalry Regiment – 5 points
  6. Munchkin Medium Artillery Battery – 5 points

The deployment instructions call for each side to roll a die for each unit and individual, with the Brigade Commanders being placed in any desired zone. These units and individuals are then deployed on each side of the tabletop in six 10-inch deployment zones. The zones are centered on the middle of the tabletop, and no more than two units can be deployed in each zone (if you roll a number a thirds time you re-roll). We elected to have all of my units deploy first, then Chris’, but we could have also alternated our units. The results are seen below.

The initial deployment.

Both of our cavalry units by chance ended up on the far end of the tabletop. Munchkins are great marksmen, but not so great in melee – and they move somewhat slowly (short legs!). So, I decided to try to organize my forces around my firepower, but realigning my troops took a few turns as my two infantry regiments were in line and next to each other. Of course, there was no defensible terrain.

Chris decided to close on my positions while I reorganized.

This is the north end of the tabletop. On the left, one of Chris’ Gillikin Regiments moves up – it had luckily received a “Swift” characteristic at the game start – so it moved fast and Chris had them in column which gave them additional movement versus being in line. He moved up his medium battery to extreme range. His Skeleton Regiment moved up in front of his second Gillikin Infantry Regiment, which had his witch, Arella, close and behind the skeletons.
Meanwhile, I tried to align my forces on the north end to maximize firepower. My wizard, Zoraster, was on the far southern end with my light cavalry. This realignment went slowly.
The swiftly advancing Gillikin Infantry Regiment went straight for my artillery battery, while in the background, his battery prepared to fire at long range. I was not too concerned as at long range he needed to roll a “1” on each of his 5 D10 shots to hit me. My ease was misplaced as you’ll see.
Full view of initial movements.
The Gillikins charged my gun, but failed to have enough movement. This left them out of breath and disordered at close range. My gun was at this point however aimed at the Gillikin battery, but the prospect of disordered enemy infantry in column right in front of me was too tempting.
I rotated the battery and fired at the Gillikin infantry, immediately destroying one of its five bases (each base takes 4 hits before being destroyed). The Regimental Commander does not count as a combat base. That action only pushed them back and kept them disorganized.
I subsequently activated again, and this fire at the Gillikin infantry exacted three hits on another base.

On the southern end of the tabletop, a cavalry battle ensued. Chris similarly moved up his cavalry, while I kept mine ready to screen and engage with their carbines. I was able to fire at his approaching goat-riders, and that disrupted that effort.

My cavalry carbines disrupt the Gillikin goat-riders attack.

next

A mid-battle tabletop view. My forces are consolidating – if slowly. So far, I am holding my own.

Then, the Gillikins managed to reform their cavalry and with a good activation roll were able to charge my cavalry – my reaction test was to countercharge at reduced efficiency. The Gillikins lost another base, and damaged mine slightly, but as I was near the tabletop edge, I was in danger of having them eliminated. The Gillikins managed to hold it together, reform again on yet another activation, and hit my now-disorganized cavalry, routing them. They had one chance left to rally, but that would depend on the activation sequence of the dice. I had Zoraster nearby, and one of his spells was an automatic rally – I just needed him to act before the Gillikin goat riders hit the fleeing Munchkin cavalry…

That did not happen in time. The Gillikin cavalry hit the Munchkins, and my cavalry ran away and headed for greener and safer pastures. This left my right flank open to a weakened but still deployed Gillikin cavalry – that Chris kept at a safe distance from any of my remaining musketry for most of the rest of the game.

My cavalry is pushed back to the tabletop end.
The Munchkin Light Cavalry is routed – one chance to reform. Then the Gillikins drove them away.
The Gillikin cavalry is on the right. Zoraster, having been denied the chance to rally the Munchkin cavalry, moved to the safety of the rear of his remaining infantry and the medium battery.
I managed to get the infantry regiments in adjoining line formation facing the approaching skeletons. Unfortunately, Chris’ medium battery began hitting my battery, taking out one of its 5 bases (on left).

Seeing this, Chris reformed his infantry that had previously taken damage from my battery. Chris kept up his attacks with his medium battery – and despite being at long range, took out another two bases – leaving my battery nearly wiped out (2 out of 5 figures left). My medium battery gunners routed, abandoning the gun. The Gillikins sensed victory, and advanced, hoping to spike the gun and gain another victory point. They made it to the very front of the battery base.

The Munchkin gunners rout, abandoning the gun.

This time luck went on my side. Zoraster successfully threw a rally spell and the gunners were able to reman the gun and fire at point-blank range at the Gillikin infantry, sending them skedaddling!

Before the rally, the Gillikins hope to spike the gun…
…but the Munchkins rally, reman the gun, and drive off the Gillikins, who would flee the battlefield for good.

Then, unfortunately for me, the Gillikin Medium battery finished off my Medium battery with another hit.

Munchkin Medium Battery, RIP. Only the gun remains – while the Gillikin Infantry that it had dispatched run away.

I was down to two infantry regiments, plus a brigade commander and Zoraster. Zoraster successfully cast an “Uncanny Marksmanship” spell on Colonel Tik-Tok’s Infantry Regiment – which made their fire more effective against the advancing skeletons. Eventually, the skellies routed and disordered through the Gillikin Infantry Regiment following behind them.

After multiple musket volleys, Colonel Tik-Tok’s Infantry routs the skeletons.

Chris then moved Arella around and threw three fireballs at Zoraster’s Guard Infantry Regiment’s flank, finally inflicting two casualties on one base (the first two shots failed). Zoraster, with a “Heal” spell, then attempted to recover these losses.

Zoraster moves behind Zoraster’s Guard Infantry Regiment to try to cast a “Heal” spell.

On a D10, he needed a 7. He rolled a 10, which is a “catastrophic spell failure” 8 or 9 just fail). Then I needed to roll a D20 on the “Spell Failure” for the catastrophic failure (i.e. rolling a 10). I rolled a 14, with the result :

“The spell fails but a friendly unit of woodland creatures joins the player’s army at the beginning of the next turn”.

Page 109, Wars of Ozz Spell Failure table

I had no idea how to adjudicate this – and I phoned Chris Palmer – who also had no idea if it was a joke result or not. In any case, as I had no stats for any such unit, we treated the failure as benign.

But Huzzah! I got another activation, to try the same action again! Good!!

ARGH!!! I rolled ANOTHER 10!!! Catastrophic failure in a row!!!

Rolling on the “Spell Failure Chart”, I rolled a 20…the worst possible result..which said:

“Catastrophic failure: The spell-caster’s head explodes into a cloud of straw, bran, pins, and needles, killing him or her instantly. Remove the model from play.”

Page 109, Wars of Ozz Spell Failure table

Well, THAT was unfortunate!

The death of Zoraster.

The remaining Gillikin Infantry then charged into Colonel Tik-Tok’s Infantry Regiment in melee. After a couple of rounds, the casualties mounted on both sides. However, the Munchkins ended up taking too many casualties (including the now-attached Brigade Commander) and were wiped out. This left me with just Zoraster’s Guard Infantry, which tried to turn and avenge Tik-Tok’s loss.

Zoraster’s Guard Infantry (not well-named as now Zoraster was dead) tries to turn and hit the Gillikin Infantry.

It was not to be. Arella successfully hit the last regiment with another fireball in its rear and the resting goat riders finally made their move and charged into the rear of the regiment. This wiped out my last unit.

The games end – with my last regiment (Zoraster’s Guard Infantry) being driven down by goat riders.

Wow, what a game. It had more than a few twists and turns. In the end the score was 21-15, so the Gillikins were not unscathed. Still, it was a Gillikin victory over the Munchkins – nice job Chris! Hopefully we can throw down again soon and we can each get another brigade done too.

Postscript

After the game, I decided to take Dave Stone’s suggestion and add some blood to the wells of the artillery sabot bases for both the Munchkins (shown here in this game) as well as my Winkie Light Battery. The Citadel “Blood for the Blood God” paint did serve this purpose.

Munchkin Medium Battery with painted wells.
Winkie Light Battery with wells on sabot base painted for blood.

I hope you found this battle report fun!

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Toy soldiers, gaming, Imagi-Nations

Zauberwurfs Blog

Ein Blog über Tabletop und Miniature Wargames.

Frank Tank Rants

musings of a fat old bloke on tanks and wargames

Dragons of Lancasm

Games, miniatures, painting, books and more games

Tiny Painted Heroes

The Adventures of a lifelong Tabletop Gamer, Game Design hobbyist, and full-time Software Engineer

Steve's Paint Brush

Grimdark model making and mini painting

Wargamesculptors Blog

Life, Golf, Miniatures, & Other Distractions

Dead Dick's Tavern and Temporary Lodging

Life, Golf, Miniatures, & Other Distractions

Guru Pig - the gaming Guru

Guru's thoughts on wargaming, life, and the universe!

Wisely lead... without a head!

History, Miniatures and Wargaming

Kuribo's Painting

Fallout Wasteland Warfare, Warhammer, and Hellboy Painting, Terrain, Dioramas, and Battle Reports

Don't Give Greg Ideas

Seriously, just don't

War Across the Ages, and other dark horrors

A discussion of miniatures collecting, painting and gaming.

Classic Warhammer 40K

Painting diary focused on Warhammer 40K 2nd ed., 5th ed. WHFB, related GW games, and miscellaneous whimsy

Colonel Mustard

WW2 Modelling in 1/72 Scale

Bogenwald

Random painting and terrain making.

Pat's 1:72 Military Diorama's

Scale diorama tips and ideas

Arcade Dreams

Building the Arcade Dream

P.B.Eye-Candy

Phil's 20th century wargame pages

SP's Projects Blog

A futile fight against entropy or 'Every man should have a hobby'? Either way it is a blog on tabletop wargames, board games and megagames

30mmdave

Wargaming Plausible reality?

The Imperfect Modeller

Miniature Figure Painting and Diorama Modelling

Double Down Dice

Painting miniatures and rolling dice!

Just Needs Varnish!

My ongoing wargames projects!

miniaturepopcorns

Sculpting some worlds

Despertaferres

Wargaming with the ability of a dull nine year old

Dawn of the Lead

Miniature wargaming and the occasional zombie

Rantings from under the Wargames table

Wargames, Figures, Sculpting and Converting Miniatures

Simple as War

Miniatures & Terrains

Buck's Blog

Life, Golf, Miniatures, & Other Distractions

IRO aka Imperial Rebel Ork

- I model - therefore I am -

Azazel's Bitz Box.

Painting, Modelling, Miniatures, 1:6, Games... Whatever else I find interesting.

diggingforvictoryblog

Smallholding and Wargaming.......not always at the same time!

Shamutantis

Nørdblog numero uno