Creating Realistic Ruined Buildings and Wreckage for Wargaming

Followers of this blog have seen several posts showing my “rusty” preparations. I have been getting ready for my numerous games at 2026 tabletop wargaming conventions. That preparation involves painting up figures and terrain for scenarios that involve a good amount of ruins and wreckage.

In a previous post, I shared how I built transmission towers and rusty walls for a Wars of OzzTM game involving Professor Nitpik’s Industrial City (the Robotic Sanctum). I ran that game at Cold Wars and will share more about that convention shortly. The theme for Cold Wars this year was “The Wild West”, so I also had planned to run a game involving Space Cowboys (technically Archive Texican Space Rangers” from Star Rovers).

I don’t run western games, but I could cobble together a retro sci-fi game using Buck Surdu’s Combat Patrol:WWIITM gaming system (with my modifications). In my game Archive “Space Cowboys”, and uplifted kangaroos  (“Space ‘Roos” ) combat blue-skinned “Retrovians” (from War Games Supply Dump). Both armies are searching for hidden ancient robots in the apocalyptic ruins of a long-dead civilization on a newly-colonized world called Dust.

To really make the ancient ruined industrial panorama that I wanted, I needed more buildings and structures than just my transmission towers, rusty walls, rusty generators and ruined chemical plant. I also wanted a lot of wreckage strewn about as terrain.

To those ends, I ended up making two ruined factory buildings, two industrial structures, and 61 scatter bases of industrial wreckage. These were all built at the same time. This enabled me to work around issues like drying and curing times as time was short. Oh yeah, and we had a few snow storms here in Massachusetts along the way that ate up some hobby time (not helpful at all).

I wanted to share my project and all its components here with you. As these were simultaneous efforts, you will see multiple project stages here. You may notice that I used a lot of repurposed bits of metal and plastic and Juweela products. The lists will be at the end of this post as is my habit. My concept was to achieve a Stalingrad-like look.

For the two buildings, I converted an iPad 16 box top and bottom. I used Apoxie Sculpt, steel washers, sand, multiple pieces of plastic, desiccant cylinders, and a lot of Juweela items to make the 61 scatter bases. And for two flat industrial structures, I reused two pieces of packing materials to repurpose them as flat rusted structures.

I started out with this iPad 16 box. I would use the top and bottom of this. It is plastic and cardboard.

I sawed out windows and doors on both box pieces and made each a bit differently in terms of architectural arrangement. I then hot-glued foam board to make rooms. For flooring, I broke up old popsicle sticks. These I had used previously to mount figures for painting on other projects. Lastly, I drilled out holes in the walls to simulate old bullet holes.

Cutting out the windows and doors on the first building.
Adding the walls, bullet holes, and flooring.

Then it was on to sculpting the outside walls. I did each building separately from here on so as to handle both curing times and to learn as I went as to best practices. Apoxie Sculpt and a Green Stuff World brick roller worked well.

Sculpting the walls. I used an awl to create and shape shell and bullet impacts on the outside.
Using the windows as gripping spots made the sculpting easier. I did need to then wait for curing.

While the walls cured, I worked on the wreckage bases – also using Apoxie Sculpt. I made the bases differently in terms of both size and shape. It helped to use one or more steel washers underneath the base sculpts. Using different sizes helped to make the shapes varied.

The biggest washer that I used and a base covered with Apoxie Sculpt.
Examples of the other sizes and shapes – all with steel washers underneath.

As the corrosion texture paint takes time to dry as well, I started adding that to various pieces of debris that I had saved up. I like to use a cheap old brush that could serve no other purpose – especially as it usually destroys it. The corrosion paint needed to dry and then got a second application.

Using the AK Corrosion Texture paint. Here I am using it on desiccant cylinders (from pill bottles), crushed plastic straw sections, and rubber inserts from a drain plug replacement.

After a day, the Apoxie Sculpt on the first building had cured. But I wanted there to be a small outside rim to it that could hold wreckage and brick debris. While a sheet of polystyrene was gluing to its bottom, I worked on the second building.

First building cured.
Bottom view – I needed more here underneath…but before that I finished the second building’s outside.
Second building outside sculpting…
….and second building flooring installation.

As the first building had cured, I started to paint it. Then I was able to glue a polystyrene base to building number 2.

Building number one with early paint work, and building number two being glued to the PS sheet under a heavy textbook.

As I was again dealing with drying and curing times, I went back to work on the wreckage bases. I used up some white sand on the Apoxie Sculpt bases and applied with PVA. Once that had dried, I added as much wreckage as I could to each.

Wreckage bases – I started with the largest. The two buildings are shown in progress as are the next batch of sculpted bases curing.
Close up shot of the larger wreckage bases in progress. Glue must dry…
Close up of building one with insides primed.

At this point, I added the flat clear plastic packing material to two square pieces of polystyrene by clamping and gluing them in preparation for corrosion texture. Then it was back to the wreckage bases. I had run out of white sand, so the next batch of wreckage bases got a PVA/grey sand application. As I used a lot pigments later, this made zero difference. At the same time, I also dirtied up the interior building walls and flooring using a sponge and various dark washes. The rim outside the buildings got a sandy texture paint covering.

The dark sand drying on the next wreckage bases, the flat structures with first application of corrosion texture, other bases in progress, and the buildings in the back.
A second coat of corrosion paint has been applied to the flat structures here. I also sorted the wreckage bases by size before adding pigments.
The flat structures and some other rusty paints I would add before augmenting with pigments.

Below you can see the wreckage bases after I added pigments to them. I fixed the pigments with Vallejo Thinner applied with a spray from a lens cleaning bottle.

Smaller bases done!
Medium-sized bases and flat industrial structures done!
Largest wreckage bases done!

Next, I added rusty industrial wreckage and scattered bricks to the buildings’ interiors.

After adding industrial wreckage and bricks to building 1…
…and building 2.

Clearly, pigments were needed at this point to make the bricks and wreckage look older and dirtier. More pigments and dark washes to the rescue!

The buildings after adding the pigments and washes to dirty and rust up everything.
Top view of both buildings as completed.

I was now ready to mock up the tabletop with everything! But first, the flyer for the game – which I finished before this project:

Game flyer.

The wreckage (all 61 pieces and the buildings really helped complete my vision. There are 24 possible search locations for the 4 ancient robots, known only to the GM. The four ancient robots I used were: “Folder Bot 3000” (aka Bender) from Armorcast Terraform Terrain Ltd.’s “Robot Townies” collection; and “RT22” from old Archive miniatures Star Rovers line circa 1977; and two Archive Miniatures Robot Cooks also circa 1977 (also Star Rovers).

The four ancient robots! Folder Bot 3000, RT22, and the two Robot Cooks.

I randomly select the locations for the four robots (see numbers on the map below). My playtest worked well, and here are some shots of the mock-up tabletop.

The mock up of the tabletop for the game. The Retrovians three squads and command group are in the forefront. The Space Cowboys are at the opposite side.
A side view.
View from the Space Cowboy’s side.
Generator side view.

I did not use all of the wreckage in the mock-up. I will share a Cold Wars post soon. However, as a preview here are a couple of shots of the game set up at Cold Wars in all its glory:

Photo of the game in progress at Cold Wars with me as the GM. (photo courtesy of Ken Howe).
Space Cowboys and Retrovians start searching for the robots.
The shoot out starts – while one robot has been found in the upper right. This was Bender, and he was not happy to be found and attacked and killed a Space Cowboy.

More about Cold Wars soon in a future post.

I hope you enjoyed reading this and seeing my rusty panorama come to life – on the tabletop anyways. If this WIP post helps you in any way, that is great! I am including these terrain pieces in Dave Stone’s PAINT WHAT YOU GOT 2025/2026 Challenge as these were completed in early February. For now, that’s it, until next time!

329 miles to Lancaster, PA and Cold Wars!

The materials are listed below as a reference for me (and you maybe).

For all of my previous posts on terrain projects, please see this page. For all of my previous posts on sci-fi projects, please see this page…for any of my previous posts on scratch-building, see this page.

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THE TWO RUINED BUILDINGS:

  1. iPad 16 Box (top and bottom)
  2. Hot glue
  3. Foam Board
  4. Toothpicks
  5. Popsicle sticks
  6. Apoxie sculpt
  7. Vallejo Surface Primer “Grey”
  8. SIBE AUTOMATION “White Polystyrene 8″ X 12″ X 1/8″ Plastic Sheet”
  9. PVA
  10. Huge Miniatures “Brick Red”
  11. MSP “Brown Liner”
  12. Vallejo Game Color “Sepia” (wash/shade)
  13. Vallejo Wash FX “Dark Grey” (wash/shade)
  14. Liquitex “Burnt Umber” (ink)
  15. Secret Weapon Washes “Sewer Water”
  16. Vallejo Thinner
  17. Vallejo Surface Primer “German Green Brown”
  18. Vallejo “Light Slate Grey” (pigment)
  19. AK “Dry Ground” (texture)
  20. Vallejo “Carbon Black” (pigment)
  21. Juweela Metal Scrap Rusty Industry (23336)
  22. Juweela Debris Assortment (23316)
  23. Juweela Debris Brick Red (23315)
  24. Juweela Debris Assortment (23315)
  25. Juweela Bricks (23034)
  26. Juweela Metal Scrap Rusty Gear Wheels (23317)
  27. Army Painter “Red Tone” (wash)
  28. Secret Weapon Washes “Red Black” (wash)
  29. Secret Weapon Washes “Ruby” (wash)
  30. P3 “Red Ink” (ink)
  31. Vallejo Game Air “Red Terracotta”

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THE 61 WRECKAGE BASES/PILES:

  1. Play sand
  2. Apoxie sculpt
  3. PVA
  4. Various scrap plastic pieces
  5. Cylindrical desiccant holders
  6. Rubber sink stopper rim
  7. Juweela Metal Scrap Rusty Industry (23336)
  8. Juweela Debris Assortment (23316)
  9. Juweela Debris Brick Red (23315)
  10. Juweela Debris Assortment (23315)
  11. Juweela Bricks (23034)
  12. Juweela Metal Scrap Rusty Gear Wheels (23317)
  13. AK “Corrosion Texture” (texture)
  14. Vallejo Model Air “Rust” (71.080)
  15. Vallejo Model Air “Rust” (71.080)
  16. Vallejo Model Air “Rust” (71.069)
  17. Vallejo Model Air “Orange Rust”
  18. Citadel “Ryza Rust” (dry)
  19. Vallejo “Old Rust” (pigment)
  20. Vallejo “Pigment Binder”
  21. Vallejo Thinner
  22. Vallejo “Dark Slate Grey” (pigment)
  23. Vallejo “Dark Yellow Ochre” (pigment)
  24. Vallejo Game Color “Sepia” (wash/shade)
  25. Secret Weapon Washes “Sewer Water”
  26. Army Painter “Red Tone” (wash)
  27. Secret Weapon Washes “Red Black” (wash)
  28. Secret Weapon Washes “Ruby” (wash)
  29. P3 “Red Ink” (ink)
  30. Vallejo Game Air “Red Terracotta”

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THE 2 FLAT INDUSTRIAL STRUCTURES:

  1. SIBE AUTOMATION “White Polystyrene 8″ X 12″ X 1/8″ Plastic Sheet”
  2. Plastic packing material from a forgotten source!
  3. PVA
  4. AK “Corrosion Texture” (texture)
  5. Vallejo Surface Primer “German Green Brown”
  6. Vallejo Model Air “Rust” (71.080)
  7. Vallejo Model Air “Rust” (71.069)
  8. Vallejo Model Air “Orange Rust”
  9. Citadel “Ryza Rust” (dry)
  10. Vallejo “Old Rust” (pigment)
  11. Vallejo “Pigment Binder”
  12. Vallejo Thinner
  13. Vallejo “Dark Yellow Ochre” (pigment)

Creating More Mechanical Men for Professor Nitpik’s Army

Convention season has arrived! So, I needed to finish off a few regiments in anticipation of several games between now and June. This time, I needed to augment my forces of Professor Nitpik and his Mechanical Men. Click the link to learn his back story.

Luckily, my first group of mechanical men miniatures for 2026 is now done. By group, I mean 41 figures for my Wars of Ozz games.

The Mechanical Men would need help in 2026 defending against marauding Munchkins. They would also need help chasing them down as they attempt to steal technological secrets. I chose to build and paint up two regiments of axemen (OZZ-511). Additionally, I chose two regiments armed with napalm blasters (OZZ-539 – not sharing a link as the picture is incorrect on the website). I also had a mechanical wizard, Androit (OZZ-543).

Luckily Buck Surdu has changed the basing rules for these such that a regiment has 10 figures, not 20. They still do come in 20 figures though! This is why I was able to turn each SKU into two regiments of each!

These were completed in early January, 2026. Therefore, they all qualify for Dave Stone’s PAINT WHAT YOU GOT 2025/2026 Challenge.

I wanted to give these bad bots a colorful metallic shine. To that end, I experimented by mixing Vallejo “Metallic Medium” with Army Painter Speed and Citadel Contrast Paints. I even tried this with a few of the 1.0 versions that have a reputation for “bleeding”. I am happy to report that no bleeding occurred with this combination.

The group all cleaned up and ready for assembly and priming.
Here you see the two regiments of axemen in progress. These regiments would be “The Jade Automata” and “The Pink Nightmares”

The two napalm blaster regiments would be yellow-themed (“The Lemon Drop Legionnaires”) and orange-themed (Morin’s Monsters). Buck edited his flags for me and named that last one so I just had to give that moniker!

Below the axemen in progress:

They have gun metal arms and legs, but colorful torsos for Ozz! The Metal Medium and contrast/speed paint combination worked well.
The command bases of the 4 regiments with their nice new battle standards.
Top view.

I also painted up Androit, plus 4 crates as game markers for the games to come. These represent stores of Professor Nitpik’s technological secrets.

First Androit:

And the crates – I think I got these from Armorcast years ago.

Crates of unknown technological secrets from before the Last Great War…

How about some eye candy (they do already look quite sugary, no?)

Completed Eye Candy

Morin’s Monsters

The Lemon Drop Legionnaires

The Jade Automata

The Pink Nightmares

(Apologies to Ralphie.)

Androit The Mechanical Wizard

Group Shot

I also posted a short video on Instagram showing these mechanical men up close:

As I write this I have just returned from Cold Wars in Lancaster, PA. These miniatures debuted in their first game, “The Great Munchkin Heist”. In upcoming posts, I will share that game and some photos from Cold Wars.

Below is the flyer for that game.

The game went exceptionally well and I look forward to sharing it in a post in the near future. I also intend to share more apocalyptic terrain that I made it for this and another scenario. I also hope to do a 2025 roundup post as well…again, I said hope!

AND I hope to see some of you soon at conventions!

Final Notes and Links

Want to learn more about Ozz and its world? If you want to check out the excellent Wars of Ozz figures’ range, there are two places to get them. You can also get the rules there. (I make no money from this.) The game rules and the figures are available from the next two places:

In the US Old Glory has a site – Wars of Ozz Miniatures.

In the UK go to Sally 4th.

And the new Wars of Ozz Supplement is available as a PDF download from the next two websites:

As for the paints I used here – the list is extensive. But my memories are not always – so they are as much a resource to me as to you. Given that I have so much wreckage on the mechanical men’s bases, it does add to the variety.

If interested, here you go. If not, thanks for looking at these bots. Until next time…

Miscellaneous details and references for those interested in that sort of thing:

For my earlier posts on Wars of Ozz games, view this page. It includes figures, units, and other related projects.

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THE TWO REGIMENTS OF NITPIK AXEMEN:

  1. Polystyrene sheet
  2. Gorilla Glue
  3. PVA Glue
  4. Popsicle sticks
  5. 2″ Square War Games Accessories Steel Bases (21)
  6. Vallejo Surface Primer “Black”
  7. Vallejo Mecha Primer “White”
  8. Vallejo Thinner
  9. Army Painter Speed Paint 2.0 “Familiar Pink”
  10. Vallejo “Metal Medium”
  11. Citadel Contrast Paint “Striking Scorpion Green”
  12. Popsicle sticks
  13. PVA Glue
  14. Vallejo Model Air “Concrete”
  15. Vallejo Model Air “Tire Black”
  16. Vallejo Model Air “Bright Brass”
  17. Army Painter Warpaints Metallics “Gun Metal”
  18. Vallejo Mecha Color “Light Steel”
  19. Vallejo Mecha Color “Off White”
  20. Army Painter Speed Paint 2.0 “Polished Silver”
  21. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Red”
  22. Citadel Contrast Paint “Moon Yellow”
  23. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Blue”
  24. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Green”
  25. Vallejo Model Air “IDF Sand Grey”
  26. Reaper MSP Core Colors “Pure Black”
  27. Army Painter “Red Tone” (wash)
  28. Secret Weapon Washes “Red Black” (wash)
  29. Secret Weapon Washes “Ruby” (wash)
  30. P3 “Red Ink” (ink)
  31. Vallejo Game Air “Red Terracotta”
  32. Army Painter “Green Tone” (wash)
  33. Citadel “Nuln Oil GLOSS” (wash/shade)
  34. Citadel “Astrogranite” (texture)
  35. Citadel “Astrogranite Debris” (texture)
  36. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  37. Vallejo Flow Improver
  38. Vallejo “Satin Varnish”
  39. Juweela 1:35 Debris
  40. Juweela Metal Scrap Rusty
  41. Juweela 1:35 Bricks
  42. Wood shards
  43. Vallejo “Old Rust” (pigment)
  44. Vallejo “Carbon Black” (pigment)
  45. Vallejo “Light Slate Grey” (pigment)
  46. Vallejo “Titanium White” (pigment)
  47. Pendraken 12mm dice frames
  48. Nitpik flag design from Wars of Ozz Facebook page (printed on card stock)

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THE TWO REGIMENTS OF NITPIK MECHANICAL MEN ARMED WITH NAPALM BLASTERS:

  1. 2″ Square War Games Accessories Steel Bases (21)
  2. PVA Glue
  3. Popsicle sticks
  4. 2″ Square War Games Accessories Steel Bases (21)
  5. Vallejo Mecha Primer “White”
  6. Vallejo Thinner
  7. Army Painter Speed Paint 1.0 “Zealot Yellow”
  8. Vallejo “Metal Medium”
  9. Army Painter Speed Paint 1.0 “Fire Giant Orange”
  10. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Red”
  11. Createx “4011 Reducer”
  12. Vallejo Model Air “Tire Black”
  13. Vallejo Mecha Color “Light Steel”
  14. Vallejo Model Air “Bright Brass”
  15. Turbo Dork “People Eater”
  16. Army Painter Warpaints Metallics “Gun Metal”
  17. Vallejo “Thinner Medium”
  18. Vallejo Model Air “Black Metallic”
  19. Vallejo Mecha Color “Off White”
  20. Army Painter Speed Paint 2.0 “Polished Silver”
  21. Citadel Contrast Paint “Moon Yellow”
  22. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Blue”
  23. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Green”
  24. Vallejo Model Air “IDF Sand Grey”
  25. Secret Weapon Washes “Yellow Snow” (wash)
  26. Secret Weapon Washes “Sunshine” (wash)
  27. Army Painter “Red Tone” (wash)
  28. Secret Weapon Washes “Red Black” (wash)
  29. Secret Weapon Washes “Ruby” (wash)
  30. P3 “Red Ink” (ink)
  31. Vallejo Game Air “Red Terracotta”
  32. Citadel “Nuln Oil GLOSS” (wash/shade)
  33. Citadel “Astrogranite” (texture)
  34. Citadel “Astrogranite Debris” (texture)
  35. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  36. Vallejo Flow Improver
  37. Vallejo “Satin Varnish”
  38. Juweela 1:35 Debris
  39. Juweela Metal Scrap Rusty
  40. Juweela 1:35 Bricks
  41. Wood shards
  42. Vallejo “Old Rust” (pigment)
  43. Vallejo “Carbon Black” (pigment)
  44. Vallejo “Light Slate Grey” (pigment)
  45. Vallejo “Titanium White” (pigment)
  46. Pendraken 12mm dice frames
  47. Nitpik flag design from Wars of Ozz Facebook page (printed on card stock)

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON ANDROIT THE MECHANICAL WIZARD:

  1. War Games Accessories Steel Bases (FOW1)
  2. PVA Glue
  3. Popsicle sticks
  4. Army Painter Warpaints Metallics “Gun Metal”
  5. Vallejo Thinner
  6. Vallejo Mecha Color “Light Steel”
  7. Vallejo Model Air “Tire Black”
  8. Vallejo Model Color “Red Leather”
  9. Vallejo Mecha Color “Off White”
  10. Vallejo Model Color “Light Brown”
  11. Createx Wicked Colors “Pearl Red”
  12. Army Painter Speed Paint 2.0 “Aztec Gold”
  13. Turbo Dork “People Eater”
  14. Vallejo Model Air “Ivory”
  15. Army Painter “Soft Tone” (shade)
  16. Citadel “Nuln Oil GLOSS” (wash/shade)
  17. Citadel “Astrogranite” (texture)
  18. Citadel “Astrogranite Debris” (texture)
  19. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  20. Vallejo Flow Improver
  21. Vallejo “Satin Varnish”
  22. MDF Base
  23. Juweela 1:35 Debris
  24. Juweela Metal Scrap Rusty
  25. Juweela 1:35 Bricks
  26. Wood shards
  27. Vallejo “Old Rust” (pigment)
  28. Vallejo “Carbon Black” (pigment)
  29. Vallejo “Light Slate Grey” (pigment)
  30. Vallejo “Titanium White” (pigment)
  31. Pendraken 12mm dice frames
  32. MDF placard and printed label
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