For all of the factions that I have in the game of Wars of Ozz, I want similar types of troops. That is, all should have access to infantry, cavalry, artillery, and magic users. Additionally, I want all factions to have at least some access to flying units. While I can add my Great Owls to any faction (as they belong to none and exist as potential allies), I wanted the Great Land of Harvest to have their own flyers – and they do – SKU #OZZ-526, “Great Flying Eagles”. I recently aquired this unit and wanted to get it battle-ready for upcoming club and convention games. And assembling them and painting them is the best way that I know of to acccomplish just that!
In OZZ-526, there are 10 figures – with no regimental commander. All of these are cast in metal and 28mm in size. Despite the fact that they are fliers, they are treated as infantry in the game. The eagles are based 2 apiece to a 2″ square base – so five bases for the 10-figure regiment.
Similar to the Great Owls figures, the figures come in three pieces. The eagles, a flight stand, and a log flight base. After some minor assembly, the unit was ready to prime and paint. I also bent the wings to provide them with a more movement-like appearance.
WIP Shots
As received – note the bases and flight stands.The Great Flying Eagles (as opposed to the walking kind I guess), assembled and mounted for painting. You can see the bends I made in the wings.
Painting went fairly smoothly – I did deviate from the American Bald Eagle in terms of eye coloration – as all of my Great Land of Harvest troops have haunting green eyes – so would these birds. I also gave the bases more color with regards to the mushrooms, moss, and mold on the tree branch bases. My flocking approach was to have them resemble more of a woodland ground scheme (with no flowers) than a field.
After painting and awaiting varnish and flocking.
A Great Flying Eagle regiment has excellent mobility with a base movement of 4″. Plus, like all flyers, they can fly over an enemy and hit them from the rear. The regiment has a solid Melee value of 7/10, and a good Elan value of 6/10 as well. Where they are average is at Resolve (not running away from a fight) – with value of 5/10. The unit costs 4 points which is pretty cheap, and they can serve as allies to another faction per the rules.
Now, I for a brief show of some flying eye candy. As the figures are pretty uniform, I am sticking with larger group shots for this post.
Eye Candy
Group shot from the front.Side shot of the eagles in column formation.A top view of the eagles in column.
As with many Ozz units, these birds were fun and very quick to do.
As a bonus shot, last weekend they saw their tabletop debut on the side of the Impkins as an ally. They routed a Gillikin Infantry Regiment – shown below routing from the eagles. The Gillikins were driven fom the field of battle by the eagles.
Even with a base loss, these eagles decimated this Gillikin Regiment.
Next up will be some thing new for my Ozz armies – lot’s of individual figures for leadership and magic!
And yes, I still have more Ozz to come…
Miscellaneous details and references for those interested in that sort of thing:
For all of my previous posts on Wars of Ozz games, figures, units, and other related projects – please see this page.
PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THE FIGURES FOR THIS GREAT FLYING EAGLE REGIMENT:
Gorilla Glue
Everlast 3/4″ steel washers
War Games Accessories 2′ square steel bases (#21)
Poster tack
Vallejo Premium White Primer
Vallejo “Flow Improver”
Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
Battlefront “Sherman Drab”
Vallejo “Thinner Medium”
Battlefront “German Camouflage Black Brown”
Vallejo Model Color “White”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Garaghak’s Sewer”
Citadel “Contrast Medium”
Reaper MSP Colors “Pure Black”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Bad Moon Yellow”
Citadel “Ushabti Bone”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Ghillie Dew 2.0”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Burnt Moss 2.0”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Malignant Green 2.0”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Familiar Pink 2.0”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Raging Sea 2.0”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Purple Swarm 2.0”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Poppy Red 2.0”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Imperial Fist”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Brownish Decay 2.0”
Army Painter “Speed Paint Medium 1.0”
Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” (wash)
Citadel “Tesseract Glow” (technical)
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Apothecary White”
Elmer’s PVA Glue
Army Painter “Battlefield Field Grass” (flocking)
Pendraken 12mm dice frames
Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Gloss Varnish”
Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Matte Varnish”
Citadel “Stirland Battlemire” (texture)
Gamer’s Grass “Strong Green XL” (flocking)
Gamer’s Grass “Green Moss 2mm” (flocking)
Again, as you may want to check out the Wars of Ozz figures’ range – there are two places to get them (and I make no money from this btw). The game rules and the figures are available from the following two places:
In the game of Wars of Ozz, there are skeletons that can be part of Winkie brigades. They can be part of other types of brigades as well as allies, though they must be purchased at a higher point cost. There are additional nuances to their use as well.
During my last few games of Wars of Ozz, I had GM’d games with Arella the Witch, the Gillikin Leader. She acted as both a witch and a leader. As a witch, she has a “Raise the Dead” spell that according to the Wars of Ozz rulebook:
When successfully cast, this spell creates one base of skeletons that touches the witch or wizard’s base. This skeleton base gets its own command die. The skeleton base may be combined with other skeleton bases in contact with the wizard or witch to create a “regiment” of skeletons. The witch or wizard may not have more than 5 skeleton bases in the game at the same time.
Other witches or wizards (such as lesser ones) may also possibly get this spell when they are set up at the beginning of the game. So, anyone could have skeletons in their forces.
Additionally, as part of the game there is a “Summoning Bell” that could be owned by either Arella or her sister, Evora the Witch, the Empress of the Winkies (but not both). Evora does not have the “Raise the Dead” spell that Arella has in her spell list, but could use the bell. The rules discuss the history of the bell in section 2.2.2.2 on page 24. Its use is more fully described in the Winkies section 4.3.1 as follows:
Evora the Witch created the Summoning Bell. The Winkies and Gillikins often wrestle for control of the bell…the Summoning Bell is led by ‘the Taskmaster’ and is pulled by skeletons…as long as (it is) within command radius of Arella or Evora (it) may execute the equivalent of the ‘Raise the Dead’ spell…
Wars of Ozz rulebook, page 82, Section 4.3.1, The Summoning Bell
The section goes on to describe that if Arella has the Bell she can both attempt to throw the “Raise the Dead”spell and have the bell generate even more skeletons as well.
I do not yet have my Summoning Bell painted, but you can see it on the website here. It’s in my painting queue but not likely next up.
However, I do have Arella and I did need to have skeletons for her in case that she did throw the “Raise the Dead” spell in one of my games. I also knew that having a regiment of skeletons would work to expand my available forces – but also that having two regiments would be even better!
I had some experience in painting skeletons as seen in The Nightmare Legion (my first blog post way back in 2015) and in Grenadier Models Dart Thrower and Undead Crew (130), circa 1984 (from my blog in 2016). Painting skeletons is relatively straighforward, but this time I would try to add the new tool of speed paints to these. Basically, I airbrush primed the skeletons in black, then heavy dry brushed them in white. Then to get a sepia tone on the bones I went with Army Painter “Pallid Bone” Speed Paint 1.0 that I cut 50% with Army Painter “Speed Paint Medium 1.0”. This gave me the tone I wanted without getting too dark. Then I tried to rust up and age all the weapons. As is my habit, for those interested, I do list all of the paints and more that I used on this project at the end of the post.
For the SKU OZZ-314, there are 20 figures – with no regimental commander, so with two regiments that was 40 figures for this project – all cast in metal and 28mm in size. The skeletons are of course infantry and are less affected by musketry (but not cannon). The skeletons are based 4 apiece to a 2″ square base – so five bases for each 20-figure regiment.
The figures came in two pieces – and some minor assembly was required as there was an upper and a lower torso . Assembly was indeed facilitated by my having forceps that could stay clamped down for a brief time on the figures while the Gorilla Glue set.
A skeleton regiment is better than average with a Melee value of 6/10, and an Elan value of 6/10 as well. Where they really shine is at Resolve (not running away from a fight) – with value of 9/10. The unit costs 5 points for the Winkies, and 6 points for everyone else (Winkies get a discount). They are armed with an assortment of swords, hatchets, axes, and pole weapons – all of which I aged and/or rusted up, as you will see shortly. You will also see how I based them so as to mix and match the poses and the warriors’ weapons and the figure types such that no two bases in each regiment were identical.
For basing, I wanted to differentiate between the two regiments for the tabletop. As the Gillikins are purple-oriented, and the Winkies are yellow-oriented, I went with these colors as themes with the flocking. I also incorporated some spikey green flora to hide the middle of the bases where there was a depression between the figures’ bases after early flocking. On one base of each regiment, I affixed two Pendraken 12mm dice frames – one on top of the other – to hold activation dice. Now I’ll share some WIP shots showing what I just discussed.
WIP Shots
As received.Each of the two regiments ready for assembly after filing off any mold lines and flash and a giveing the figures a good washing to remove any oils.Thank you Mr. Forceps! No sticky fingers!Airbrush primed in black.Dry brushed in white.Example of an individual skeleton after being dry brushed.After the 50% Pallid Bone Speed Paint.
You can see three examples of the Speed Paint effect below. Yes, this is 1.0 and I do have 2.0 as well – but I thought the “Pallid Bone” looked better on swatches.
After varnishing the regiments with my airbrush, and letting that cure, it was basing time. Given the figures are mounted on 2″ square bases, the flocking needed to be done sequentially for best results.
First, I needed determine which types of figures were EXACTLY the same. Many of these had to be differentiated by the placement of the feet on the bases (as differences were slight). The figures did bend easily so between that and affixing different heads it was simple to create unique bases for each regiment.Then it was time to mock these up on bases before gluing them down. I also needed to find space for the dice frames on one base.As you can see, I traced out the approximate positions for each figure then glued two at a time to each base. After that had dried, I then flocked the areas outside the two glued figures and the open spaces on the bases. When that had dried, I mounted the remaining two figures per base and continued flocking. I needed to wait for each step of gluing to dry.The regiments flocked with their final glued flocking in the process of drying.
Now, I will throw you, my readers, a bone – or rather several bones – it’s time for…
Eye Candy
Regiment 1
Base 1A
Base 1B
Base 1C
Base 1D
Base 1E
Skeleton Regiment 1 Group Shot
Regiment 2
Base 2A
Base 2B
Base 2C
Base 2D
Base 2E
Skeleton Regiment 2 Group Shot
Both Regiments Group Shot
These were fun and very quick to do – I started on Sunday November 12th and took the photos of the finished regiments on November 16th. I’m still working on the right combination of lights for my photo booth but am getting a bit better.
Like other units I have shared, these skellies will make excellent allies to other brigades on the tabletop.
My next post will be a surprise to us all as I have actual gaming to do now!
And yes, I still have more Ozz to come…
Miscellaneous details and references for those interested in that sort of thing:
For all of my previous posts on Wars of Ozz games, figures, units, and other related projects – please see this page.
PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THE FIGURES FOR THESE TWO SKELETON REGIMENTS:
Gorilla Glue
3/4″ steel washers
Poster tack
Vallejo Black Surface Primer
Vallejo “Flow Improver”
Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
Vallejo Model Color “White”
Army Painter “Speed Paint Medium 1.0”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Pallid Bone 1.0”
Vallejo Model Color “Dark Sea Grey”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Runic Grey 1.0”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Gravelord Grey 1.0”
Vallejo Model Air “Bright Brass”
Vallejo Model Air “Black Metallic”
Vallejo Model Air “Steel”
Vallejo Mecha Color “Dark Steel”
Citadel “Nuln Oil” (wash)
Battlefront “Tommy Green”
Vallejo “Thinner Medium”
Vallejo Mecha Weathering “Rust Texture”
Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Matte Varnish”
Vallejo Mecha Weathering “Dark Rust Wash”
2″ square steel bases from Wargames Accessories (#21)
Again, as you may want to check out the Wars of Ozz figures’ range – there are two places to get them (and I make no money from this btw). The game rules and the figures are available from the following two places:
The 2023 HMGS Fall In!® was held in Lancaster, PA from November 2-5. I attended and was fortunate to run 2 Wars of Ozz games by myself, plus be a co-GM on 1 with Chris Palmer, play in one run by Dave Wood, and assist Dave in his Wars of Orcs and Dwarves game. All of these were run in the H.A.W.K.’s (Maryland’s Harford Area Weekly Kriegspielers) room. As always, I am appreciative of their adoption of a wandering New Englander like myself!
So, how am I to post all of the photos and links related to my experiences at the convention – given that the convention was spread out all over the convention center? This is especially challenging as I was pretty much lucky to find any time to hit the vendor’s hall, let alone be an effective photographer. I have decided to break out these photo sections and video links by game and by category. I hope it makes more sense this way. Just enjoy the eye candy – and I thank all who played in my games, collaborated with me, or helped me in any way. Special thanks go out to Chris Palmer, Dave Wood, Russ Dunaway, Buck Surdu, and all of the H.A.W.K.’s. So, let’s start!
I arrived on Thursday afternoon after a 6-hour drive. I set up my game on Thursday night. On Friday morning, I ran my Wars of Ozz “Battle for Toto” scenario – the first iteration of two. Sign up was light, so I needed to play the Munchkin defenders as well as GM.
Bruce (Gillikin commander), Allen (Winkie commander), and Peter (Harvest commander) at the start. I acted as the Munchkin commander.Winkies and Harvest move up towards the Munchkin defenses.On the defender’s left, the Gillikin’s ally, the Great Menacing Hammerheads, breach a fenceline for a following light battery. In the rules, the Hammerheads don’t have that ability – but as a GM and former combat engineer, I had to give them to ability to destroy a fence. I mean, their heads are…hammers…The two “bad guys” advance – and at this point are collaborating against the Munchkins.Allen ponders his next move for his Winkies – can he trust the Gillikins not to stab him in the flank? In the event, he became the stabber!Bruce, not trusting the Winkies – turns his Gillikin longbowmen to face the Winkies…he said it was to make deployment room, but the Winkies felt threatened…No fighting between the bad guys yet – the advances continue. I GM the game. Photo from Chris PalmerAnother shot from Chris Palmer as I GM.Allen moves against the Winkies Lesser Apes with his Gillikin Goat Rider Cavalry. Photo by Chris Palmer.Colonel Tik-Tok faces an assaulting group of Carrot Creatures. Photo by Chris Palmer.The Carrot Creatures are held at bay, while the Munchkin Light Cavalry is disordered and routs from the field of battle. Photo by Chris Palmer.The two attackers turn on each other as the trust is over – or the need for victory points drove them to it! Gillikins and Winkies turn on each other along their flanks – and the Munchkins feel a sense of relief watching their enemies fight each other and not them.Not involved in the Winkie scrum – the Gillikin Beast Brigade (Dire Wolves, Dire Lions, Dire Tigers, and Dire Bears) move up to assault the Munckin Guard on their left so as to try to get into the town and search for Toto. Gillikin artillery and musketry begin to take a toll on the Munchkin Guard, who nevertheless hold as the Beast Brigade tries to get to the town.The scene at the end of the game. Toto remained safely in the town controlled by the Munchkins.The scorecard I used for the Friday morning game – Munchkins win!
Then, on Friday afternoon, I got a chance to get to the vendor hall – and I was excited because Russ Dunaway had previously asked me for some photos of my Great Pumpkinhead models. I took a few in my photo booth – and he used them for T-shirts! When you have a t-shirt with one of your own favorite painted minis, well, that’s a no-brainer – got to get some! Russ did gift me with some as well – thanks Russ! They are available for purchase on the Wars of Ozz miniatures web site as well.
My Great Pumpkinhead life-size and his bigger image on my T-shirt!A fashion trend! Chris Palmer, Dave Wood, and myself, sporting the latest haute Ozz couture…
For Friday night, Chris Palmer and I combined forces (and figures) for a massive 8-player game of the Wars of Ozz. I acted as a player and a co-GM with Chris. Chris made some excellent posts on the Wars of Ozz Facebook page (CHECK IT OUT!) on this game – and with his permission I’ll share the photos and his descriptions of the game that he posted in the next section:
Saturday Night – A Wars of Ozz scenario – “The Vegetables are Revolting” – photos and write up by Chris Palmer
A birds eye view from the Munchkin Balloon gives us an overview of the table before the game began.Quadling troops linger around one of the Sweetie Carts at the game’s start.Harvest troops charge forward into the Munchkin right flank.Great Pumpkinheads prepare to march through a mushroom patch to get at the enemy.Another shot of the action on the left wing of the Harvest attack.On the defenders’ left flank The Quadlings quickly deploy into line to meet the oncoming enemy; as the Munchkins in the center take up a position on a nearby hill.Munchkin Light Cavalry bravely charge at the Great Pumpkinheads.Meanwhile, in a patch of woods on the defenders’ left, the Quadling Lancers discover a hidden group of Savage Apple Trees.Quickly forming their banquet tables into a barricade, a unit of Munchkin Landwehr attempts to fight off a charge by some Dire Lions.Another unit of Great Pumpkinheads charge at some Quadling Infantry.Assistant Gamemaster Mark Morin, helps two players work through a melee combat.A view of the battle lines midway through the game.Munchkin Light Cavalry charges the remnants of a unit of Corn Creatures.
That finished off Friday night. I can’t say enough about this game – so much fun, thanks Chris! My table for Saturday morning’s Battle for Toto was adjacent to this one – so I just brought over the figures that fought in this scenario, and I was ready for Saturday.
Saturday Morning – The Battle for Toto – My Pictures
View from the GM set up side.
I had a full table for Saturday morning – which was excellent!
Professor Nitpick and his Mechanical Tin Axemen and the Munchkin Light Cavalry in reserve behind the main Munchkin defenses.A view of the game start – lots of terrain, yes? Some from our Aussie buddy Guru!The attackers move forward – have not fought each other yet.The attackers – Terry with the 2 Gillikin Brigades, Allen with the Winkie Brigade, and Geoff with the Harvest Brigade. Photo by Chris Palmer. Here you can see my Munchkin players – one on the right with his daughter and Mark and Charlie on the left. Photo by Chris Palmer.I brief the scenario. Photo by Chris Palmer.Gillikin forces. Photo by Chris Palmer.The dad (sorry that I forgot your names) and his daughter on the Munchkin side discuss strategy. Geoff prepares for war. Photo by Chris Palmer.Allen came back for a second try with the Winkies – while Geoff took over the Harvest Brigade in this game. I had two Munchkin players.I remove a fence section after the Great Menacing Hammerheads breach it. Photo by Chris Palmer.Harvest forces menace the Munchkin Medium Battery – supported by the Light Cavalry. Meanwhile, the Winkies deploy into line to hit Colonel Tik Tok’s infantry.The Corn Creatures make a devastating melee attack and overrun the Munchkin artillery and send them running for home.As the Corn Creatures overrun The Munchkin battery, Harvest tries to get to the the town. Mark and Charlie hold off the attackers as I assist the gamers. Photo by Chris Palmer.Mid-game action. Photo by Chris Palmer.Professor Nitpick moves up to support the Munchkins against the Gillikin assault. Photo by Chris Palmer.Savage Apple Trees show up unexpectedly in the Munchkin rear! They were too slow to affect the battle though.The Munchkin Guard loses discipline and abandons their wall for a charge at the Gillikin infantry. The Munchkin Aerostat provides covering fire, but the Winkies and the Gillikins are at the town – and the Gillikin Bears would seize Toto. The ballon would then fire at them, and they would run away. Still, the Dire Tigers would refind Toto and take possession of the little dog. While the Gillikins did get Toto for 10 points, they were light on taking out enemy as casualties. The Winkies/Harvest did take out a lot of Munchkins, but took just one Gillikin base. The Munchkins were victorious having made their enemies pay with 23 base losses. Had the game continued (time ran out) I believe that the game could have gone in any direction.
Thanks so much to all of the players. Mark and Charlie from Mark’s Game Room did play in this game as you see from the pictures. They also did a wonderful video recap of the ENTIRE convention (with a minor mention of this game at 8:48). Well worth a view – and a subscribe – CHECK IT OUT!:
Saturday Afternoon – Dave Wood’s Wars Of Ozz Game: Munchkins and Winkies
After a quick break, it was time for a Saturday afternoon game with Dave Wood – anothe Ozz game! I did not get many pictures, but here is one (yes just one):
I played on the defending Harvest side – and we on the Munchkin side achieved a minor victory over the attacking Winkies, Impkins and Gillikins. Dave did a nice job with 8 players!
Saturday Night – Dave Wood’s Wars of Orcs and Dwarves Game: The Elves against the army of the Professor of Post-Mortem Communications (formerly called the Necromancer)
Glad Dave chose a short scenario title for a meeting engagement! Anyways, I was not able to initially play in this game as it was sold out. So, I helped him out as an assistant GM until late in the game when one of the Elven players left. It was a narrow bad guys victory – and to my teammates mea culpa as my unnecessary attacks cost us the one base loss. Hey, it was late!
View of the game tabletop as Dave briefs the scenario.Mid-game action.Warg cavalry (old Ral Partha I think) facing Ratlings with crossbows.
I wish I took more photos – but I did not. Anyways, that’s the wrap for me on HMGS Fall In!® 2023. For me, it’s wargame season again as golf opprotunities have dwindled. Thanks so much to HMGS for a great convention!
For all of my previous posts on Wars of Ozz games, figures, units, and other related projects – please see this page.
Here, as promised in my last post, is the second Wars of Ozz unit that I finished in October 2023 in preparation for HMGS Fall In!®. It is OZZ-511, Professor Nitpick & His Mechanical Tin Axemen. According to the Wars of Ozz rulebook, in the world of Ozz, there is the “Industrial City”, a “haunted ruin”, inhabited by one man – Professor Nitpick. The section from the rules that describe him and the Industrial City are superb – just a short excerpt:
Before…this unnamed city was a powerhouse of production, one of the last great cities of the world. Now it is an unknown ruin, bombed into ruins…no building remains untouched, the result of a terrible vengeance for a crime of the citizens here. Some claim they started the Last Great War, others claim they invented the Madness bombs that stilll infect the land…no historical mention of the city survives…only one person…might know the crime that earned the city such punishment – the reclusive Professor Nitpick…
The Professor is a legend. According to him, he was born before the Last Great War, more than 300 years ago…the witches suspect Nitpick was actually created by the science-wizards of that time, an experiment to create a superman…(but) Nitpick is frail and certainly no superman…
…he is, however, a mad and ruthless genius…(who) remembers the old technology and…has created…his Auto-Mechanical Axemen. With them as his army, he has claimed the Industrial City as his private estate…
Wars of Ozz rulebook, section 2.6.2, page 43
The section goes on to describe how Professor Nitpick has been previously attacked by Evora the Witch, the Empress of the Winkies. Despite their martial prowess, her Winkies were trounced by Nitpick’s forces. Since then, no one has dared to approach the Industrial City to steal its secrets while Nitpick has his army on guard. Yet, in exchange for devices or artifacts, the Professor can be persuaded to join other armies in Ozz with his Mechanical Tin Axemen.
For the SKU Ozz-511, there are 11 figures – with Professor Nitpick as the regimental commander and 10 Axemen. All are metal and 28mm in size. The axemen look like very cool steampunk robots. In the game, they are infantry that, due to their sturdiness, lowers an attacking unit’s melee value by one – reflecting their armored nature.
In the game, the axemen are based 2 apiece to a 2″ square base – so five bases for the Mechanical Tin Axemen regiment plus Nitpick on his own regimental commander MDF base. Some minor assembly was required for the unit other than the basing – such as choosing and affixing which heads you prefer for the axemen (and there are several extra in the kit). The Professor Nitpick figure has an oil can and an oversized wrench. The regiment is exceptionally superb at combat with their axes – with a Melee value of 8/10, a Resolve value of 8/10, and an Elan value of 8/10 as well. The unit costs 6 points.
They are armed with a motley assortment of axes. As I have with other units, I based them so as to mix and match the poses and the figure types such that no two bases of the five were identical. I gave the Axemen the shaded metallic look similar to my Archive Warbots.
I definitely wanted them to appear as if they were truly in the ruined Industrial City in accordance with the Ozz canon (as opposed to the Oz of Baum). While that means that their bases will differ visually on the tabletop from grassland terrain and other typical Ozz terrain, I thought it appropriate to their origin and nature. To that end, as shown below, I added broken bricks, wooden debris, rusted pipes, and twisted rebar to this regiment’s bases. It was fun to do these bases with this theme as it’s been a while since I painted anything even close to it.
Let’s see some WIP shots and some more pics below!
WIP shots…
The unit is shown here getting cleaned up – you can see that there are several heads to choose from on the metal sprues.After assembly, I primed them in black so as to accentuate any recesses down the line. I primed the Professor in white.Simple dry brushing brought out the base metallic colors over the black primer.
As for the bases, I had some bricks that I saw on The Imperfect Modeller’s blog. At least that is my memory – Dave may have just told me about them at some point. I bought some of these Juweela® 1:48/1:50 scale terracotta bricks a few years ago on Noble Knight games – in anticipation of a future need that I might have for rubble. And here the need for rubble had indeed arrived!
The box of 1,000 little bricks.
I took one of my old specimen jars that I use for mounting figures to paint the bricks (and btw contrary to any other assertions (Guru), my specimen jars are never used for actual specimens!!).
I dumped all of the 1,000 bricks in (no I did not count them) and added in red ink. I then swirled the bricks around in the jar before dumping them all out helter skelter on plastic plates. After having spread the bricks out, I let them dry – and they were indeed clumped together in a very rubble-like fashion. Perfect – and later I would give them a red-black ink treatment to boot to age the bricks and vary their color a bit.
The bricks after the first red ink application.The bricks are shown here after they got the red-black ink aplication. Note how they stuck together. Pigment additions would come later.
Then, I moved onto making some twisted rusty rebar and crushed and rusty pipes. I took some paper clip wire for the former and some plastic tubing for the latter, bending aand crushing both as needed. I then swirled the both of them in a specimen jar with some iron paint (Army Painter Warpaints “Rough Iron”) and some rust washes (Vallejo Mecha Weathering “Rust Texture” and Vallejo Mecha Weathering “Dark Rust Wash”). As with the bricks, I dumped them out on a plastic plate to dry – moving them around so that they did not stick to the plate. As before, pigment additions would come later. For those interested, I do list all of the paints and more that I used on this project at the end of the post.
The rebar and pipes after the iron paint swirling.The same materials after a rust wash swirl, plus a good application of rust pigments, after drying on a plate.
The last materials I wanted to add to my bases were pieces of broken and burned wood. For this I went with shards cut from popsicle sticks. Yet another swirl was done with a dark grey ink (Secret Weapon Washes “Stone”). I let these dry and again, pigments would come later, mainly soot and ash.
The broken and shattered lumber shards.
During this process, I continued to paint the figures – adding various lights and LED-like buttons to the axemen. I did not want to overwhelm the axemen figures with color – so the little lights were nice highlights. I gave Nitpick a somewhat “Willy Wonka” look with a white lab coat. For the bases, I used Citadel “Astrogranite Debris” on them as a base for the addition of all of the rubble in the future.
Professor Nitpick with a base of wet “Astrogranite Debris”.An 2″ steel axemen base with mostly dried “Astrogranite Debris”.
Now it was time to add the rubble in a haphazard way – as ruined-looking as possible. I did this by adding and gluing the brick clumps, individual bricks, wood shards, rebar, and rusty crushed pipes sequentially with PVA and letting them dry. I subsequently used pigments to make the wood look burned and ashy, as well as adding ashes and soot on the base with attention to the rubble of bricks, wood, pipes, and rebar.
Professor Nitpick on his ruined base with his oil can in his left hand. I put the massive wrench on the base to his right on a piece of burned wood. I added a Pendraken 12mm dice frame on the side for game use. This would all get an airbrush matte varnish application as well to knock down any shine. Similar to the previous shot, here you see an axemen base prior to varnishing, but with the base having been treated with rust, soot, and ash pigments.
Now, I can’t wait to share…
Eye Candy
Professor Nitpick
Base 1
Base 2
Base 3
Base 4
Base 5
Group Shots
A group shot with a better view of Professor Nitpick.A group shot from a slightly higher angle showing the bases and the axemen a little bit better.A top view showing the full bases as well as the Wars of Ozz leader ability placard I used for the regiment at Fall In. That placard can always be changed to another ability depending on what is drawn by chance. The slot in the MDF base allows for this.
I enjoyed painting and building this unit a lot – and am hopeful that more will be coming for Professor Nitpick’s forces in the future – perhaps even enough to be a faction in and of themselves. In the meantime, the regiment will make excellent allies to other brigades on the tabletop.
My next post will cover some photos from my games and experiences at HMGS Fall In!®.
And yes, I still have more Ozz to come…
Miscellaneous details and references for those interested in that sort of thing:
For all of my previous posts on Wars of Ozz games, figures, units, and other related projects – please see this page.
PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THE FIGURES FOR PROFESSOR NITPICK AND HIS MECHANICAL TIN AXEMEN REGIMENT:
Gorilla Glue
3/4″ steel washers
Poster tack
Vallejo White Surface Primer
Vallejo Black Surface Primer
Vallejo “Flow Improver”
Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
Vallejo Model Air “Steel”
Vallejo Model Air “Armour Brown”
Reaper MSP Core Colors “Blackened Brown”
Vallejo Model Color “Wood Grain”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Dark Wood”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Enchanted Steel”
Vallejo Mecha Color “Dark Steel”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Broadsword Silver”
Vallejo Model Air “Gun Metal”
Citadel “Nuln Oil GLOSS” (wash)
Vallejo Game Air “Dead White”
Secret Weapon Washes “Blue” (ink)
Secret Weapon Washes “Just Red” (ink)
Vallejo Mecha Color “Green Fluorescent”
Secret Weapon Washes “Sunshine” (ink)
Vallejo Model Air “Fluorescent Red”
Vallejo Game Ink “Red” (ink)
Citadel Technical “Tesseract Glow”
2″ square steel bases from Wargames Accessories (#21)
MDF base from Wars of Ozz miniatures
Citadel “Astrogranite Debris” (texture)
Pendraken 12mm dice frame
P3 “Brown” (ink)
Secret Weapon Washes “Heavy Body Black” (wash)
Paper clip wire
Small polystyrene tubing pieces
Popsicle stick shards
Juweela® 1:48/1:50 terracotta bricks
Army Painter Warpaints “Rough Iron”
Vallejo Mecha Weathering “Rust Texture”
Vallejo Mecha Weathering “Dark Rust Wash”
Secret Weapon Washes “Stone” (wash)
Elmer’s PVA Glue
Vallejo “Pigment Binder”
Vallejo “Carbon Black” (pigment)
Vallejo “Old Rust” (pigment)
Vallejo Model Color “Black”
Battlefront “Dark Leather”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Battleship Grey”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Crusader Skin”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Brazen Copper”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Purple Swarm”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Satchel Brown”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Holy White”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Cloudburst Blue”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Aztec Gold”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Hoplite Gold”
Vallejo “Titanium White” (pigment)
Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Matte Varnish”
Again, as you may want to check out the Wars of Ozz figures’ range – there are two places to get them (and I make no money from this btw). The game rules and the figures are available from the following two places:
It’s been a while since I posted anything about painted figures. As I mentioned in my last post, October 2023 found me busier than I have been for quite some time. In addition to finishing up my Ozz terrain and a storage box for it, I managed to finish off two Wars of Ozz units for use at HMGS Fall In!®. This post is about the first one – the Savage Apple Trees.
In the 1939 Movie, The Wizard of Oz, most of us may remember Dorothy and the scarecrow being assaulted by grumpy apple trees as they picked apples.
The apple trees attack – from the 1939 MGM movie, The Wizard of Oz.Close up of a grumpy apple tree- from the 1939 MGM movie, The Wizard of Oz.
In the Ozz world, these apple trees are part of the forces of the Great Land of Harvest. They are listed on the Wars of Ozz miniatures site as OZZ-523, Savage Apple Trees. In the game, they have both melee abilities and missile attacks (thrown apples of course). Additionally, they have the opportunity for secret deployment on the tabletop on a predetermined section of woods. This does give them the advantage of showing up unexpected on an enemy rear or flank.
Another advantage is that they are less affected by musketry (but not cannon). Their main disadvantages are twofold. First, the ranges for thrown apples is slightly worse than carbines – with only 4″ for short range with a maximum of 6″ for long range. Second, they also move relatively slowly as befits a tree unit. They are listed in the “Allies and Mercenaries” section on the website, and in the rules are listed under the Great Land of Harvest.
In the game,they are average melee troops, with Melee values of 5/10, Resolve values of 6/10, and Elan values of 6/10. They are even just average apple throwers, with a marksmanship of only 5/10. On the plus side, the unit is relatively inexpensive at only 4 points. As trees, they can pass through woods without any penalty, though still are slow.
The figures are all large enough to fit 1 figure each on a 2″ square base. They come 5 to a unit, are 28mm in scale, and are metal. All needed assembly and foliage attachments. There are two types of branches that can be added, plus the branches on the main trunk. Additionally, there is a base for each tree and 50 apples that can be mounted on the trees or scattered on the bases. Each figure, once assembled, can have its branches bent to allow both nesting of the completed figures in a formation (without hitting a neighboring tree base) as well as to give some degree of individuality. There are no faces on the trees.
WIP Shots…
As received.The Savage Apple Trees after cleaning up of any mold lines and a good washing.
The challenge of their assembly needed a bit of planning on my part. Initially, I decided to assemble the trees, then paint them fully, then add foliage. For attachment of the limbs and bases, I first went with green stuff – but that proved to be ineffective – as the subsequent act of bending the tree branches for nesting detached a few trunks and branches. Ugh! So, I went back to drilling out and pinning the component branches and bases and gluing with trusty Gorilla Glue. I was also able to mount the trees onto their steel 2″ bases for painting – which helped with my validating their nesting arrangements to a large degree.
The next step was to paint the assembled trees on their bases and the extra apples on a plate, which was pretty straightforward.
Early painting. The extra apples are on the plate.Later painting – I found that I needed to bend the limbs and branches here much more than shown here to facilitate nesting in a game formation. Even though the green stuff had cured, that bending led to repair and pinning!WIth the branches and apples rebent and repaired for nesting prior to the addition of foliage.
After painting, it was on to varnishing and adding foliage and flocking. As for the foliage, I had gotten some good experience with the repair of the Impkin Artillery (slingshot) that I discussed in my last post.
Impkin Artillery before foliage……and after adding foliage and apples.
Based on what I learned from IRO, and what I saw in this You Tube video, I ended up using three types of glue/adhesive. First, I applied Woodland Scenics “Hob-e-tac” to the painted branches and let that dry clear per the instructions. Then I added small bits of mid-green foliage clumps one at a time by pinching them onto the Hob-e-tac. I then let that dry, then followed that step with more Hob-e-tac on the nearby branches. As the foliage grew, I added sprays of Woodland Scenics “Spray-Tac” as well as sprinking little apples from Woodland Scenics “Fruit Apples and Oranges”, and let that dry. In between, I’d also add a few lines of PVA onto the foliage clumps so as to create stronger bondsand “bridges” between the foliage clumps that I was building up. This was tedious as I needed to let the different glues on the foliage dry and harden before moving on to another step. Also, when you use the Spray-Tac, you need to wash out the nozzle and its assembly. As a side note, my nozzle assembly came apart during this process which was a pain to reassemble – so beware! I still do like the Spray-Tac as it dries matte.
The last step was to flock the bases. For this, I added some grass, some scattered random metal and Woodland Scenics apples, some pieces of clump foliage, and some twigs. I have been adding Pendraken 12mm dice frames to my units as well (just one as any unit only needs one).
Eye Candy
The Savage Apple Trees as completed.
They saw their tabletop combat debut last weekend at HMGS Fall In!®. I hope to share some photos of that convention in an upcoming post. I can even see using these in mass fantasy battle games of Wars of Orcs and Dwarves.
I hope that you found this somewhat post interesting and maybe even helpful. Most diorama builders are probably laughing a bit at my challenges here – as they are more used to using the foliage and associated glues than I was.
Next up is Professor Nitpick and his Mechanical Tin Axemen, then a Fall In recap!
And yes, I still have more to come…
Miscellaneous details and references for those interested in that sort of thing:
For all of my previous posts on Wars of Ozz games, figures, units, and other related projects – please see this page.
PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THESE SAVAGE APPLE TREE FIGURES:
Savage Apple Trees
2″ square steel bases from Wargames Accessories (#21)
Green Stuff (kneadatite)
Poster tack
Gorilla Glue
Vallejo Grey Surface Primer
Citadel “Contrast Medium”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Wyldwood”
Vallejo Model Color “Wood Grain”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Poppy Red”
Vallejo Model Air “First Light”
Citadel “Warpfiend Grey”
Citadel “Skrag Brown”
Battlefront “Firefly Green”
Battlefront “Tommy Green”
Vallejo “Flow Improver”
Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
Vallejo “Thinner Medium”
Vallejo Varnish “Matte Varnish”
Pendraken 12mm dice frame
Elmer’s PVA Glue
Woodland Scenics “Hob-e-Tac Adhesive”
Woodland Scenics “Clump Foliage-Medium Green”
All Game Terrain “Foliage Clumps-Medium Green”
Woodland Scenics “FS645 Spray-Tac”
Woodland Scenics “Fruit Apples and Oranges” (just used the apples)
Army Painter “Battlefield Field Grass” (flocking)
Gamer’s Grass “Red Flowers” (flocking)
Small twigs
Again, as you may want to check out the Wars of Ozz figures’ range – there are two places to get them (and I make no money from this btw – I just love this stuff).
The game rules and the figures are available from the following two places:
Now that is a pithy title! Indeed, October saw me having a number of projects happening – almost simultaneously – in preparation for the HMGS Fall In! convention this week. It was nearly overwhelming, especially given that I was also involved in multiple golf tournaments as a player and as an organizer/committee member, plus a number of big events that were nice – but I’ll spare you those details for now.
So much terrain!
I had been previously gifted a good number of some wonderful Acheson resin buildings from Russ Dunaway that were perfect for the Great Land of Harvest or the world of the Wars of Ozz. Also, as I mentioned here last month, I received a wonderful gift of some new terrain from Dave in Australia. His blog is Guru PIGS blog and it was a collection from his Mouse Metropolis project. I also got a gift of couple of glowing Mushrooms from Buck Surdu that I also loved! Also my purchase of some walls and fences from Pendraken showed up. Add to this at this point I had around 26 Fairy-style prepainted resin buildings I had gotten from the Dollar Tree store – including a tall one from Dave/Guru. Something had to be done – I could neither store, use, or transport all of this goodness effectively. Plus some of the Pendraken stuff and some of my own stone walls and fences needed an upgrade. Add to this, I got a new brigade of Impkins for Ozz from Buck – more on that shortly – let’s stay on terrain for the moment.
Aussie Dave’s Mouse Metropolis giftBuck’s cool glowing mushrooms – and an appropriate cozy he got for me at an HMGS South convention in Florida.All the terrain I had – minus walls and fences…
My first solution to this issue was to share the bounty. I shipped off half of the Acheson resin buildings and half of my fairy buildings to my Tennessee buddy (and former West Point roommate) Dave Wood for use in his Wars of Ozz games. My next step was to finish the resin buildings, fences, and walls so that I could craft a storage and transport solution for them. I also wanted to repaint/upgrade my remaining haphazardly prepainted Dollar Tree buildings. So on to what I managed to do with all of that…
Here are some of the Acheson buildings that I kept. I also kept a tall gourd building that is not shown here. I decided to assemble them and attach the roofs permanently.
After a LOT of scuffing and sandpapering the surfaces of the resin buildings (for proper primer adhesion), I assembled them with green stuff. You can see the gourd building here left of the black Sharpie pen.Here are all of the ones that I kept – here assembled and awaiting a priming – which I did twice. The buildings are nice, but resin is so fickle.
As shown above, the priming took a couple coats (plus some more touch up) as resin is, well, resin. I tried to minimize the lines where the roofs met the model bottoms – but they still showed up a bit. Still as tabletop terrain, it think its ok, especially as the roofs won’t come off.
Here below are how they came out after painting:
Three pumpkin buildings.The two apple buildingsA tall gourd building.All of the resin – done!
Then I had some Pendraken MDF snakerail fences to assemble and paint
28mm snakerail fences.
I also got some plastic walls and plastic fences from Pendraken that I flocked and gave some minor washes to in order to make them look a bit better. I also repeated this process with some older used 3″ walls and fences that I already had that were in desperate need of an upgrade. Next, I repainted my remaining 13 Dollar Tree Store Fairy buildings (to varying degrees depending on what could be done).
Now, I was ready for a storage solution. I went with a 64-liter Really Useful Box, and built and installed three custom-made levels to transport and store all of this goodness. Serially, I mocked up each level on sheets of foam board, and used hot glue and toothpicks to secure walls of foam board on each level. The underneath supports were square wooden dowels. I also incorporated empty golf ball boxes for storage on the top level. (very useful too). It’s maybe good I lose golf balls from time to time…
The bottom level was easy – as I only needed to fit the Mouse Metropolis pieces down there. Then it was on to the middle layer – where all the taller pieces like the bigger buildings would be housed.
The middle level as constructed.Mocking up the top level. Here you can see some of the fences and walls that I upgraded with washes and flocking.The top level as completed.
Below you’ll see all three levels and how compact it all is in the 64-L box – which weighs about 5-7 pounds full.
All three levels separate……and all three layers safely stored.
As terrain was the order of the day for my Fall In preparation, I also ordered two Cigar Box Battles 4′ x 6′ + Grassland Battle Mats as I needed a bigger tabletop area. The terrain will go on this mat for my upcoming game of The Wars of Ozz – the scenario is The Battle for Toto – but I have upgraded it as well. Herebelow are some shots as a sneak preview of what I will start with at Fall In.
Overview of my approximately 12′ x 4″ battlefield for “The Battle for Toto”.A view from the attackers’ side.A view of the town the Munchkins are defending – which holds Toto. But where?
The terrain gifts that I got were not the only ones I got. Buck Surdu had painted up an entire brigade of Impkins – and asked our little group on our group text if there was any interest. I of course jumped at the chance to get some wonderful Buck Surdu originals! In the discussion, it came out from someone that they reminded somebody of “creepy fighting baby dolls”. I suggested to Greg Priebe, that sounded like an 80’s metal band – and could he put that into AI somehow? He could, and without further ado, and with a bit of hilarity, here is the CFBD’s in concert:
The Creepy Fighting Baby Dolls
Ah Greg, they definitely make me laugh! A band worthy of IRO for sure down under – at least image-wise!
Anyways, in the midst of all else that I had happening in October, this VERY complete brigade arrived in the mail in two packages. The painting was fantastic – Buck’s painting work is always amazing. There were two regiments of infantry, two of cavalry (one riding roosters, and one riding St. Bernard dogs), one Border Swamp Guardian Fairy (flying) regiment with bows, a cool slingshot light artillery battery, two leaders, and a sorceress:
There was minor damage to the units in the mail, and most was easy to fix with some glue. The biggest challenges were twofold. One, I wanted to add some flocking to the bases for tabletop differentiation – and two, I wanted to upgrade the slingshot unit. By upgrade, I mean that the base was not magnetized for the placement of crew, and the trees supporting the slingshot had lost their foliage (see below). I was inspired by – again – IRO, who recently had a cool post about making model trees. He had advised me about the right glue to use and more – so I used that information as best as possible.
Without further ado, here is my….
Gift of Impkins
The first shipment came – and I was excited – the base with the slingshot and the fairies came second.
The two infantry units looked a bit similar – even though one has a rooster-mounted commander and the other one on a St. Bernard. So in addition to adding a Pendraken 12mm dice frame, I added different flocking:
The Swamp Guardian Fairy (flying) regiment was really cool. I mainly had to drill out some of the wires that came loose and reattach a few wings.
There were two cavalry regiments:
I think those will be easy to differentiate!
There were the three individuals – King Kittcut, Queen Garee, and Sorceress Mother Ophelia and her Cats. I based all three on MDF bases and printed out placards for them.
Queen Gare, King Kittcut, and in the back Sorceress Mother Ophelia and her Cats on the MDF bases. Buck’s painting on all of these is phenomenal.
This leaves the Impkin “Artillery”. It’s a slingshot firing apples – that moves on the battlefield- somehow. So how, I don’t know, it just acts like a light artillery piece – so suspend belief – it’s Ozz! Anyways, I magnetized the base for the crew, and added some blood stains under the figures for when they are casualties. I also redid the foliage per IRO’s suggestions and added some Woodland Scenics apples for effect. It was fun and a bit messy, but good preparation for a subsequent project I hope to blog about soon – Savage Apple Trees (to come soon)
Here is the Impkin artillery base shorn of the foliage on the trees. I drilled out the base, added magnets for the crew and flocking. The dice square glue is shown drying here.After finishing up the re-foliage and the apples – voila! I was very happy.Side view.Rear view.The figures – once removed as casualties – display a blood stain on the grass.
Gifts also went from me! One more model that I worked on was a Pokemon Pikachu model that I assembled together with my 6-year old (nearly 7) grandaughter. It was fun, but the tail broke off easily. No worries, Papa repaired it and affixed to two points on the model such that it should not twist off again. She loves it, and it was a fun modeling experience for her.
The model.Love this kid!Guess who she was for Halloween?
Sending Guru Dave the Wars of Ozz & Wars of Orcs and Dwarves rulebooks, and a Mark 1 Sphere Tank Down Under
I did want to reciprocate Dave’s great selfless terrain gift – and I knew he loves rule books. So unbeknownst to Guru Dave, I sent him the rulebooks for both the Wars of Ozz and Wars of Orcs and Dwarves. As he was into Xenos Rampant, I also sent him a cast of my Mark 1 Sphere Tank Down that he could use there. You can read about his reactions in his post here.
Much thanks to Russ Dunaway, to Dave (Guru), to Buck Surdu , to Greg Priebe, to IRO, and to Chris Comeau for all that you did to make this all work! I appreciate you allso very much.
As I finish this post, I am about to pack for Fall In, with all the Ozz stuff you see. I do have a couple more units to post about once I have gotten back, as well as an October golf roundup. I’m sure that I will have a Fall In! post as well to do. My apologies to those whose blogs I am behind in catching up on – I will get there. I hope that this post was enjoyable for you and that maybe I can meet some of you at Fall In!
I have not painted any Ozz figures since last month – and while I did run a Wars of Ozz game at the Hobby Bunker, and finished my Frost Ogres for WOOD, it was time to jump back on my Ozz stuff. I wanted to finish off my last Gillikin units – which are not really Gillikins but are aligned to them in the game as allies. These would be the Dire Lions (OZZ-500), Dire Tigers (OZZ-501), and Dire Bears (OZZ-502), all large intelligent beasts that normally fight alongside the Gillikins. They are listed in the “Allies and Mercenaries” section on the website, and in the rules are listed under the Gillikins as well as in the “Allies and Mercenaries section”.
These figures are all large enough to fit 1 figure apiece on a 2″ square base. They come 5 to a unit, are 28mm in scale (for giant beasts that is) and are resin and metal – and most needed some minor assembly and prep. Each grouping of five had two types of poses – one with the animals on their rear haunches in an attack position and one with three or four paws on the ground. After cleaning them, I used a blow dryer to heat the legs of the lunging ones and bend them so as to make them even taller. I also assembled those with metal heads in various and slightly different positions so they would be facing forward somewhat askew from each other.
A big difference with what I did with these figures versus my normal painting process was that I resolved to use my three airbrushes as much as possible. For priming and varnishing I used my Iwata Eclipse HP-CS with a 0.5mm needle. For large areas, I used my Iwata Neo with a 0.35mm needle. And for detail, I used my Iwata Custom Micron CM-B with a tiny 0.18mm needle. At the end of this post, I’ll share all the different paints, and other supplies that I used. I also did some detail work with regular brushes. My goal here was to airbrush as much of the figures as possible to achieve fur blending and a different level of detail.
As with all Ozz infantry units, they are based on 2″ square bases – so five bases for each regiment. There is no regimental commander for any of the units, but I did add a Pendraken dice frame to one base of each unit.
As one would expect, in the game,they are good melee troops across the board, with Melee values of 6/10, 6/10, 8/10, Resolve values of 5/10, 5/10, and 6/10, and Elan values of 6/10, 7/10, and 6/10 for the Dire Lions, Dire Tigers, and Dire Bears respectively. The Dire Lions are cheapest at 4 points, with the Dire Tigers and Dire Bears costing 5. All can move sideways or backwards with no movement costs, and all can pass through woods without any penalty.
I started these on September 4th and completed them on the 26th. I’ll share some WIP shots and then some eye candy pics below.
WIP Shots…
My first step was to have a decent painting plan – so I downloaded some photos of the animals as guides. Of course, the models differed slightly as befits Ozz, but a good start nonetheless. I primed the models all in white.
The figures primed in white and surrounded by the photos that I used as painting guides.
I initially decided to go with the painting order of “Lions, and Tigers, and Bears” for some reason…but I did apply a base coat to the bears before the tigers. When I painted the tigers, I kept hearing “Eye of the Tiger” in my head…
Early airbrush work on the lions and bears.
As for order of work though, I primarily stayed with the order with the lions first and the bears last with the tigers in the middle.
The Dire Lions mostly painted – less some highlights and washes.Lunging pose.Three paws on the ground pose.
Then, it was on to the Dire Tigers, where getting the right mix of orange, black, and white on the fur was really made easier with my airbrushes. They were also saber-toothed, which was a cool aspect of the sculpts.
First, I applied a base of orange with the Iwata Neo airbrush then white details with the Iwata Custom Micron airbrush – multiple coats were needed for blending.Added white……then some black tiny stripes with the Micron.Ready for faces!Faces added with both brushwork and airbrush.Pose with paws on ground.Lunging pose.
Next, I moved on to the Dire Bears. Here I wanted a brownish blended paint job – which sounds easier than it was.
I painted the mouths by hand, then proceeded to try to blend the fur on the Dire Bears to resemble grizzly bears.After painting, this and the gallery below show the results before varnishing.Paws on the ground pose.Reared up pose.
At that point, I could begin to finish the bases. The models’ bases on the steel bases were raised up and in some cases overlapping the 2″ steel bases. To level it all out, I used up an umopened box of black Milliput that I had hanging around -and ended up running out of it on my last Lion – so I used green stuff there on the last lion.
Base work time!Bases all leveled out and ready for a coat of green to go under future flocking. Guess where the black Milliput ran out…After varnishing with the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and ready for flocking!
Before I get to the eye candy – a brief and happy segue. I had a fun chat with Dave – (aka Guru from Guru PIGS blog down under in Australia). A wonderful package from Dave subsequently made the 10,470 mile trip to my home. What, pray tell, was in the package? Well, just a great collection of whimsical hand-made stuff! The most wonderfully Ozz-appropriate terrain, a “Mouse Metropolis”, along with a fun golf book (for you know I love golf). Thanks so much Dave, I look forward to incorporating this great collection into my games! I just have to figure out a boxing solution (which I will of course!). You can see Dave’s blog post on the Mouse Metropolis here. So much appreciated Dave, thank you! You are a gentleman and a scholar!
Wonderful!
Back to the dire beast models at hand – and the flocking. As Gillikins love purple, I added some purple flowers to each base, along with different grass ans grassy tufts to give an “beast in ambush mode” feel to the miniatures. Without further ado, let’s look at some…
Eye Candy
Dire Lions
Base 1
Base 2
Base 3
Base 4
Base 5
Dire Lions Group Shot
Dire Tigers
Base 1
Base 2
Base 3
Base 4
Base 5
Dire Tigers Group Shot
Dire Bears
Base 1
Base 2
Base 3
Base 4
Base 5
Dire Bears Group Shot
Dire Beasts Group Shots
I now have 2 regiments of Dire Bears, and one each of Dire Wolves, Dire Lions, and Dire Tigers – a Dire Beast Brigade!
All of my Dire Beasts in a Really Useful Box!
I hope that you found this somewhat post as interesting as I found painting these figures. I do have another Harvest unit to do, then some terrain and then maybe the Quadlings. I have 394 painted Ozz figures to date, and 200 this year alone.
And yes, I still have more to come…
Miscellaneous details and references for those interested in that sort of thing:
For all of my previous posts on Wars of Ozz games, figures, units, and other related projects – please see this page.
PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THESE FIGURES:
Dire Lions
2″ square steel bases from Wargames Accessories (#21)
Again, as you may want to check out the Wars of Ozz figures’ range – there are two places to get them (and I make no money from this btw). The game rules and the figures are available from the following two places:
I have been developing a Wars of Ozz scenario to use at upcoming gaming conventions, especially at Fall In!® in Pennsylvania in November. The genesis of the idea for it came to me when I painted up the Adventurers of Ozz figures. The Kansas Farmgirl figure (probably “Dorothy”😁 ) had a small dog in a basket on her waist – and there was yet an extra separate Toto figure in the group. Well, I decided that I could use the other separate Toto as an objective marker – which led to my wanting a scenario for that use. And here we are!
The scenario title is “The Battle for Toto” – I’ll get you my pretty, and your little dog too!”. My flyer with the game description is below.
The scenario involves two converging – yet potentially opposing -attacking forces and one defender. On one side, are the Gillikins under Arella the Witch with two reinforced brigades. On the other side, under Evora the Witch, are the combined Winkie/Great Land of Harvest forces consisting of two allied brigades.
Meanwhile, a single reinforced Munchkin brigade is holed up in a nearby small town and some surrounding defensive cover outside of that town. Also hidden in that town – in an unknown location – is the Kansas Farm Girl’s little dog, Toto – the object of the game of course.
The Gillikins and the Winkies can choose to fight each other or collaborate and go for the Munchkins. To simulate the “sibling rivalry” aspect of the game, I allowed Victory Points for the two attackers differently. If the attackers took out a Munchkin base, it was worth 1 point, while taking out a sibling’s base was worth 1.5 points. While collaboration between the attackers is possible, I created an incentive here for sororicidal tendencies to assert themselves (never used that word before!). The point values for the game are shown below:
The biggest point value is possession of Toto at the end of the game at 10 points. Toto is placed randomly and secretly under one of the buildings using playing cards face down. Even I, as the GM, won’t know where Toto is.
I have GM’ed this game twice. I ran it at a Mass Pikemen game day back in July on the 22nd, and also at the Hobby Bunker Game Day event on August 26th. I took a few pictures but as always when you’re the GM it’s difficult to be a great photographer and run the game effectively. I always prefer to be an effective GM and as good a photographer as possible. Still, I think you’ll find these pictures interesting – and this post will be photo-heavy.
As is my wont, after each game, I tweak it a bit for the next iteration based upon player feedback my own observations. In both of the games here, I acted as the GM and the Munchkin commander. If I had more players, I would defer. As I would expect the Munchkins to take advantage of their initial hard cover, little movement on their part is expected. This leaves more game time for the attackers, as the Munchkin’s actions during their activation tends to be over pretty quickly for the most part.
A quick aside – I needed to determine a special order of play with three sides. Normally, in Wars of Ozz, for activation purposes, there is an activation deck of cards with 12 cards: 1-6 red and 1-6 black. They determine the order in which a side can activate a unit or individual based on a dice pool controlled by the brigade commander. The number of dice in a brigade commander’s dice pool corresponds to the number of units or individuals that the player controls. So if a 6 is pulled on a card – the player can choose a unit to activate with any available sixes on the dice. For this three-way game, to see who would go first, I needed to set up a special order of play. I used red cards for the Munchkins (which would let them go first on a red card) and odd black-numbered cards for the Gillikins and even black-numbered cards for the Winkie/Harvest brigades. Each turn, all get activated, it’s just the order of activation that is affected. For example, if a black 3 card was pulled, all Gillikin 3’s would activate, followed by Winkie/Harvest 3’s, followed by Munchkin 3’s. If the next card was a red 6, the activation order of play would then be Munchkin 6’s, followed by Winkie/Harvest 6’s (as an even number), followed by Gillikin 6’s (who only go first on odd numbers). As all 12 cards are played each turn – it does evens out.
I will share the pics below and give some descriptions – though it is far from a complete battle report to be sure. I just thought you folks would enjoy the photos and the flavor of the games.
Mass Pikemen Game Day – July 22nd
Here is the game as set up:
Winkie/Harvest on the left – Gillikins on right, Munchkins in town and behind walls on right and left of the town.
Close ups of the attackers are shown below at the start of the scenario – the Winkies are screening their flank with zilk cavalry, while the Gillikins are doing the same with a regiment of giant Dire Bears.
The Munchkins are in good cover – with Colonel Tik Tok and a medium battery both in defensive positions on the town’s flanks in a walled positions. In the town are a light cavalry regiment with carbines, the Munchkin Guard infantry, a wizard, and the Aerostat providing overwatch musketry. In reserve are the Great Owls. In this first game, I used 4 buildings in the town as possible Toto locations, so there was a 25% chance that Toto was in any one building.
Now, some play shots:
The start of the game – would the attackers join forces or would sibling rivalry take precedence?
Very quickly, sibling rivalry did take over as the Winkie Light Cavalry got the initiative and attacked the Gillikin longbows once the Dire Bears moved forward and left them open.
Winkie Cavalry drives back the Gillikin longbows while the Dire Bears wait to counterattack.
This move also left open the cavalry’s flank, and the Dire Bears subsequently hit them on that flank. In short order, after a few rounds the Winkie cavalry was routed by the Dire Bears and was eventually driven off the board. The loss of this key unit would haunt the Winkies, but now there was definitely a 3-way fight on the tabletop.
The Dire Bears successfully drive the Winkie cavalry from the field of battle.
At the town, the Munchkin Aerostat kept up covering fire from a safe location, as Harvest melee troops hit the defenders in waves. One such attack triggered the Munchkin Light Cavalry to charge out of the town and hit the Mushroom Regiment.
Munchkin cavalry sortie – this was caused by a Reaction test that went an undesired way for the Munchkins.
The Carrot Creatures Regiment routs after a failed assault on Colonel Tik Tok’s Regiment. Eventually, the Harvestland Artillery (pumpkin chucker) would pummel Tik Tok, causing them to flee, and notably also take out the Kansas Farmgirl when a base loss occurred. Yes, she did indeed buy the farm..
Meanwhile, on the Munchkin’s left flank, the Munchkin medium battery took a toll on multiple Gillikin units. The Gillikins sent out their Dire Wolves to flank the battery, and the Munchkins countered with their mobile reserve – the Great Owls.
Dire Wolves threaten the medium battery and the Great Owls respond.
With the main objective in mind, the Dire Wolves ran around the Great Owls to the town (Dire Wolves are FAST), where they prepared to search a building for Toto.
Would the card underneath show that Toto was there? It was a 1 in 4 chance…
Similarly, the regrouped Mushrooms stormed a gap in the town’s defenses (left by the undesired sortie of the Munchkin Light Cavalry who kept charging away at other enemies). The Mushrooms prepared to search yet another building.
Mushrooms make it to another building.
The next activation, the Dire Wolves found Toto – and carried him away.
Toto is found!
The game ended, with the Gillikins winning, the Munchkins in second place, and the Winkies/Harvest in third. I think the points were Gillikins 28 (with 10 for Toto), Munchkins 19, and Winkies/Harvest 18.
After this game, I added some 12 mm Pendraken dice square frames to some of the Gillikin regimental commanders and to one base apiece of regiments that do not have regimental commanders. I got the Gillikin regiments from an estate sale in the UK. I had wanted to have a number of Gillikins, so they were not painted by me – but were quite good. I also made MDF placard holders for the Gillikin regiments with commanders and glued them to their bases as it would have been too impractical and time consuming to rebase the figures. This would make play easier because having the placards on the regimental commanders’ bases negates having them fall off during movement. I also updated some player charts to one piece of card stock. I was then ready for the:
Hobby Bunker Game Day – August 26th
Matt of the the Hobby Bunker store in Wakefield ran a game day on August 26th. I ran an Aztec game here last year but did not do a blog post on it, but it was well-attended. For this one, I volunteered to run the Battle for Toto scenario twice – once at 10 AM and again at 2 PM.
Unfortunately, turnout was a bit low, and we also started late, so I ended up running the game just one time across both time slots. That is to say, I kept the tabletop as it was at 2 PM and rotated in new players. It saved time as the game was still developing, and resetting the game was not a good option for the time we had left. In the end, it worked.
The game went similarly to the previous iteration – but not totally. I did modify some of the troops initial locations within the brigades, plus the table was of a slightly different size than I had in July.
Once again, at the start, witch sibling rivalry took over – though this time it was the Gillikin’s Dire Bears hitting first instead of the Winkies. And once again dice rolls favored the Gillikins and saw the Winkie Cavalry being routed and ultimately driven off of the board! (As Boston Bruins fans know – don’t poke the bear). Also, that cavalry rout went through several other Winkie units, disordering them and slowing their initial movements in the game.
Matt controlling his 2nd Gillikin Brigade, while Brad controls the Winkie/Harvest forces.The Winkie cavalry (upper right in this photo) rout disordered multiple Winkie units.Colonel Tik Tok’s Infantry Regiment faces an onslaught of waves of Greater and Lesser Pumpkinheads and other vegetable regiments.The Winkies responded with furious musketry from their Sharpshooters, as well as a spear volley from their allied Corn Creatures. This took out two Dire Bear bases and heavily damaged a third.
Meanwhile, on the Munchkin’s left flank, the Gillikins moved up their forces into an effective attack formation with their musket-armed infantry in line (for better musketry) and melee forces in column (for better movement towards the town0. They detailed a small force to hold the Winkies at bay on their left flank.
Gillikin attack formations.Evan, commanding the Gillikin 1st Brigade, moves his troops.A view of the Gillikins movement and alignment from the opposite angle.Meanwhile, back on the right flank, waves of Greater and Lesser Pumpkinhead attacks fail to dislodge Colonel Tik Tok’s Regiment.Unfortunately, a subsequent Reaction test causes the Munchkins to break discipline and leave their nice protected wall and countercharge the Lesser Pumpkinheads – with the Kansas Farmgirl in tow as she was attached.Back on the left flank, the Munchkin medium battery – assisted by the attached Scarecrow -kept up fire at the units of the advancing Gillikin horde – but there were a lot of them. The Great Owls moved up to secure the left flank of the battery – with nothing on the right of the battery. The Gillikins noticed this!Back in the center of the table, the fight between the Winkies and the Gillikins continued as both sides had settled into a flank-protecting action while going after the Munchkins with their other forces.Back on the Munchkin’s left flank, the Harvesters move quickly in single column towards the unprotected side of the medium battery…
After this movement, the Harvesters activated again, and were able to change formation and hit the medium battery – wiping it out completely.
The Harvesters eliminate the medium battery. As GM, I should have left the gun on the tabletop – oh well, I forgot.Back on the right flank, the Great Flying Apes took advantage of Colonel Tik Tok’s departure from the wall, and fly over and behind them in anticipation of a devastating hit in their rear. The Munchkins managed to do an about face towards the Apes, but were not able to fire. They would then be attacked in melee.
The fight went badly for Tik Tok. The Regiment lost two bases and a third was heavily damaged. Even the Kansas Farmgirl took damage.
The Great Flying Apes hit devastates Colonel Tik Tok’s Regiment (And the Kansas Farmgirl). And now they were in sights of the Harvestland Artillery (pumpkin chucker)…
The Harvestland Artillery activated, and hit the Munchkins, eliminating yet another base, and routing the unit. Alas, the Kansas Farmgirl also took damage, and yes, again, sadly bought the farm…
Both Munchkin flanks had now been compromised – and as the Gillikin Goat Riders were in the process of routing the Great Owls, things were not looking up for the Munchkins. At 2 PM we rotated in new players to take over.
The Great Owls flee, and the Harvesters move up to search the town.New players join the fray.As the Munchkin’s right flank was gone, the remaining survivors of the Mushroom Creatures regiment and the Great Flying Apes eye a building for search for Toto. The Carrot Creatures Regiment changes its target from the Gillikins and would wheel towards the Munchkin Light Cavalry in the town’s front.
The Carrot Creatures decided to fire their bows at and then charge the Munchkin Light Cavalry. The Munchkin Light Cavalry’s Reaction test to that fire dictated that they would countercharge the Carrots – with impetus and double hits…the result was massive damage to the Carrots, who also quickly fled the battlefield in a hurry.
A dramatic and somewhat desperate charge of the Munchkin Light Cavalry against the Carrot Creatures Regiment.
The Munchkin cavalry then took a reaction test, which made them continue to attack the nearest unit – which ended up being the Gillikin Longbows. The bowmen damaged the cavalry and broke up their attack with little damage. Subsequently, Evora successfully hit them in the rear with a fireball, taking out a base. A terrible Reaction test die roll then sent the Munchkin Cavalry fleeing.
Here the Munchkin cavalry hits the Gillikin Longbows, and Evora is ready with her fireball.The Aerostat fired muskets at the Dire Wolves, which then turned and fled. But, the Harvesters were able to then make it to the building shown here unmolested – and search for Toto. On the other flank, the Mushroom Regiment was prepared to search for Toto in another building, so three of the five buildings remained in Munchkin hands and were not searched.
In the end, Toto by chance was in the building searched by the Harvesters. The little dog was seized, and put under the control of Arella and the Gillikins.
The final scores were:
Gillikins 37.5 (including 10 points for Toto)
Munchkins 25
Winkies/Harvest 24
Obviously, possession of Toto by any of the three sides would have resulted in victory. Yet again, the Gillikins won, but it was definitely a different battle. I like the scenario and will tweak it for Fall In!®. I am hoping to realign the forces a bit and add a few surprises. I will also have some new terrain and possibly a new gaming mat. The core of the scenario will remain as I think it works and I think is fun.
At Fall In!® I will be running the game in the HAWKS room twice – on Friday morning and also on Saturday morning. I will also team up with Chris Palmer on Friday night for another Ozz game – featuring the Harvest folks seeking seasonal revenge – “The Vegetables are Revolting”.
Thanks for looking at this longer post. Next up (hopefully by this weekend) will be a special post on the Challenge Ogres “Paint What We All Have” painting challenge organized by Roger from “Rantings from Under the Wargames Table” in conjunction with Dave Stone of “Wargames Terrain Workshop” . Dave sculpted the figures and Roger set out the painting challenge.
Any feedback from you – let me know!
Miscellaneous details and references for those interested in that sort of thing:
For all of my previous posts on Wars of Ozz games, figures, units, and other related projects – please see this page.
As I promised in my last post…I now present to you some creepy and scary scarecrows for the Great Land of Harvest Army! These are from OZZ-507, “Harvesters – Fearsome Scarecrows of the Night”. They are listed in the “allies and mercenaries” section on the website, and in the rules are listed under the “Land of Harvest”.
There are 20 figures, all are metal and 28mm in size. They look like creepy scarecrows – and they do bear a strong resemblance to many of the Lesser Pumpkinhead figures. In the game, the Harvesters are infantry, but they are less affected by musketry (not cannon though). I assume that is because bullets pass through them relatively easily. They are based 4 to a 2″ square base – so five bases for the regiment. There is no regimental commander. No assembly was required for the unit other than the basing. They are reasonably good melee troops with a Melee value of 6/10, a Resolve value of 7/10, and an Elan value of 7/10 as well. The unit costs 4 points.
They are armed with a motley assortment of weapons – rakes, scythes, pitchforks, sickles, axes, hatchets, and even a hoe. As you will see below, I based them so as to mix and match the poses and the figure types such that no two bases of the five were identical. I needed to get these done for a game and I got them in under the wire – and I will share a post on that game soon.
Harkening back to my Scarecrow figure from the Adventurers of Ozz, and my other Harvest figures, I gave these zombie-colored flesh and glowing eyes. Some of the figures had pumpkin heads but I still gave their limbs a zombie flesh treatment. Other figures had hoods or sacks over their heads, so the glowing eyes tied them together too. I made sure that their clothes varied in color as after all, these are scarecrows.
I wanted them to appear as if they were coming out of a grassy overgrown field, so my basing choices reflected that in terms of the mixed flocking you’ll see. I also wanted to hide their feet as I felt that would look more creepy in the grass. You can decide for your self if that worked. Lastly, for playability, I added a small stone at the back of each base for alignment – as it’s not easy to see which way is “forward” given the rabble-look in which I arranged these guys.
I started these in June and worked on these in July – and finished them up in July. Let’s see some WIP shots and some more pics below!
WIP Shots…
The Harvesters as received – organized by type. As you can see, there was a motley assortment of figures and weapons.Clean up!On washers for mounting and subsequent painting.My rough plan and layout on June 26th. I would get delayed over the July 4th holidays!Managed to get them primed July 5th.July 8 celebration! We have the fireworks in our town the weekend after Independence Day – they save money and get a better show (more “bang” for the buck. My wife Lynn and our granddaughter Tabitha shown here after watching the parade go by our house. So, no painting!Back at it on July 9 – dry brushing over a dark wash.They waited for me to get back at them – a July 16 restart.
I was able to finish painting them on July 18th, as seen below.
After varnishing them and letting them dry, I mounted them on the bases and went to town on the flocking – and to hide the feet.
Finished!Top view.
Eye Candy
Base 1
Base 2
Base 3
Base 4
Base 5
Group Shot
I hope that you found this somewhat late post interesting. Next, I hope to share a post of their first battle at the Mass Pikemen Gaming Club.
And yes, I still have more to come…
Miscellaneous details and references for those interested in that sort of thing:
For all of my previous posts on Wars of Ozz games, figures, units, and other related projects – please see this page.
PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THESE HARVESTER FIGURES:
Gorilla Glue
3/4″ steel washers
Poster tack
Vallejo Mecha Surface Primer “White”
Secret Weapon Washes “Heavy Body Black”
Vallejo Model Color “White”
Reaper MSP Core Colors “Pure White”
Citadel Technical “Tesseract Glow”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Runic Grey”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Snakebite Leather”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Ultramarine Blue”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Black Legion”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Contrast Medium”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Brownish Decay”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Gore Grunta Fur”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Aethermatic Blue”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Dark Angels Green”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Militarum Green”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Charming Chartreuse”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Oche Clay”
Tamiya “X-6 Orange”
Tamiya “X-20A Thinner”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Bony Matter”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Ironjawz Yellow”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Poppy Red”
Vallejo Model Air “Wood”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Wyldwood”
Vallejo Model Air “Brown”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Camo Cloak”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Murder Scene”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Apothecary White”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Skeleton Horde”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Plaguebearer Flesh”
Vallejo Model Color “Black Green”
Vallejo Model Color “Neutral Grey”
Citadel “Nuln Oil” (wash)
Vallejo Game Ink “Black Green”
Vallejo Model Air “Black (Metallic)”
Vallejo Model Air “Gun Metal”
Vallejo Model Air “Steel”
Battlefront “Dark Leather”
PS Model Color “USAAF Olive Drab”
Vallejo “Flow Improver”
Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
Vallejo Varnish “Satin Varnish”
Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Matte Varnish”
Black Sharpie pen
2″ square steel bases from Wargames Accessories (#21)
Elmer’s PVA Glue
Army Painter “Battlefields Grass Green” (flocking)
Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “12mm Tan Tufts” (flocking)
Army Painter “4mm Wilderness Tufts” (flocking)
Gamer’s Grass “Autumn XL” (flocking)
Army Painter “Yellow Meadow Flowers” (flocking)
Army Painter “Battlefield Field Grass” (flocking)
Army Painter “Lowland Shrubs” (flocking)
Small stones (flocking)
Again, as you may want to check out the Wars of Ozz figures’ range – there are two places to get them (and I make no money from this btw). The game rules and the figures are available from the following two places:
With regards to my available troops for Wars of Ozz games, I have pretty much gotten some of the main factions. I have Munchkins, Winkies, and a lot of Harvest. This is fine – except for the Gillikins and the Quadlings. I do have an unpainted Quadling Brigade that I got from Greg Priebe that is in my painting queue. What I did not have – until recently, was a Gillikin Brigade.
Gillikins soldiers and forces are more known as “the Imperial Gillikin Army”. Gillikins are humans who have mutated into the goblin-like inhabitants of Ozz after the Last Great War.
They serve under Arella the Witch, also known as the mistress of Beasts. She is the witch sister of Evora, the ruler of the rival Winkies. Theirs is indeed a fierce rivalry. Arella has subjugated multiple tribes of Gillikins, and created her Army. It is composed of four branches: Infantry, Cavalry, Beast, and Sorcerer League. The Infantry Branch is composed of units fashioned mostly after those of the Munchkins. The Munchkins had previously defeated Arella’s attempt at conquest, hence Arella’s desire to up her conquest game by copying her rival. The Cavalry Branch is made up of goat-riding Gillikins. The Beast Branch is composed of giant allied (or subjugated) intelligent animal units – such as Dire Lions, Dire Tigers, Dire Bears, (oh my)…as well as Dire Wolves. The Sorcerer League is made up of various lesser witches and wizards.
I have the Lions, the Dire Tigers, and the Dire Bears in my painting queue. And, as discussed on two of my previous game posts, here and here, I have been lucky enough to have been able to borrow Gillikins from my good friend Chris Comeau. But, I really needed to have some of my own. However, my current unpainted Ozz lead hill is already at nearly 400 figures – and I did not want to increase its size – or wait to get Gillikin troops.
Enter eBay. Several quite decently painted units – and really whole armies have come up on eBay for Wars of Ozz in the last few months. It is my understanding that they are part of an estate sale – but I could be mistaken. In any case, I was lucky enough to win the auction for the forces (7 regiments) below:
2 Gillikin infantry regiments
1 Gillikin longbow regiment
1 Gillikin goat-rider cavalry regiment
1 Gillikin light battery
1 Dire Wolf regiment
1 Dire Bear regiment
My new Gillikin army! (photo from eBay)
They are painted quite nicely, and despite the fact that they were sent from the UK, arrived in pretty good shape. I did need to repair a couple, and the bears needed a bit of a rehab paint job, but they were what I needed…
EXCEPT…
I had no brigade commanders or an Arella figure! Back to help from great friends, Greg Priebe had an extra OZZ-405 “Gillikin Mounted Officers on Goats” – and offered it to me as he did not plan on painting them in the near term. There were three officers mounted on goats and suitable for use as brigade commanders. The figures are metal, 28mm in scale, and came in two pieces. As for Arella, I would borrow that from Chris and then he gifted it to me! More on her in a future post.
With a Mass Pikemen Gaming Club Ozz game in the near future, I wanted, no I NEEDED to finish at least two of the three for my newly acquired Gillikins. I’ll share below the WIP process that I took and some eye candy of the finished paint jobs.
WIP Shots…
The Gillikin officers as received from Greg – in the original packaging. I use the 3″ x 5″ card to record which paints I use so that I can share them with you on my blog posts – (and so I can recreate similar painting schemes on future projects).
For mounting, I went with popsicle sticks instead of my usual specimen jars with poster tack. This made painting each half easier – especially as the legs are already on the mounts. I brush primed them, then let that cure. The following day, I gave everything a dark wash, then after sufficient drying time, dry brushed over the wash with white.
The figures after dry brushing.Early painting progress.Goats done……and torsos…
I assembled them as shown below.
Then, I assembled the three MDF bases from Wars of Ozz miniatures. I use the round-edged front bases for brigade commanders and the rectangular ones for the regimental commanders – though that is reverse of what is on the website catalog. I find it to be an improvement, as the rectangular bases match up better against the units with square bases.
The MDF bases gluing.
After the glue on the MDF bases were dry, I added a brown ink wash to the outside to minimize the cut marks. This worked very well as the MDF drinks that up. Then I mounted the figures and prepped them for flocking.
Mounted the Gillikin offices and more waiting for glue to dry!
As previously, I varnished these with a single coat of satin followed by one of matte and let them dry. Once the varnish dried overnight, I glued the figures to the assembled MDF bases. And waited for more drying. And once that dried, I began serial flocking work.
Without further ado, here’s some Gillikin Mounted Officer…
Eye Candy
Officer 1
Officer 2
Officer 3
Group shots
I just got two of these into an Ozz game last weekend, but that recap will be in a few posts as I am a bit behind. Yes, I blame golf. Or rather my addiction to golf…stay tuned, I’ll get there…
Thanks again to Greg Priebe and Chris Comeau…and to Russ Dunaway and Buck Surdu for bringing this all to life. I’ll still need to get some witches for a Sorcerer’s League in due time…
I hope that you found these fun. Up next…some creepy and scary scarecrows for the Great Land of Harvest Army!
And yes, I still have more to come…
Miscellaneous details and references for those interested in that sort of thing:
For all of my previous posts on Wars of Ozz games, figures, units, and other related projects – please see this page.
PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE THAT I USED ON THESE GILLIKIN MOUNTED OFFICER FIGURES:
Green stuff (kneadatite)
Popsicle sticks
Vallejo Mecha Surface Primer “White”
Secret Weapon Washes “Heavy Body Black”
Vallejo Model Color “White”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Ghoul Green”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Ratling Grime”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Contrast Medium”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Black Legion”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Bony Matter”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Sand Golem”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Luxion Purple”
Vallejo Mecha Color “SZ Red”
Battlefront “Black”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Baal Red”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Charming Chartreuse”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Purple Swarm”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Imperial Fist”
Vallejo Mecha Color “Green Fluorescent”
Martha Stewart Crafts “Pale Bronze”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Hardened Leather”
Citadel “Warpfiend Grey”
Hataka “Gris Claire Neutre”
Reaper MSP Core Colors “Blackened Brown”
Citadel “Ushabti Bone”
Vallejo Model Air “Ivory”
Vallejo Model Air “Gun Metal”
Army Painter “Speed Paint – Broadsword Silver”
Vallejo Model Color “Black Green”
Vallejo Game Ink “Black Green”
Vallejo Model Air “Bright Brass”
Vallejo Game Ink “Yellow”
Citadel “Contrast Paint – Apothecary White”
Citadel “Seraphim Sepia” (wash)
Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” (wash)
Gorilla Glue
PS Model Color “USAAF Olive Drab”
Paper clip wire
P3 “Brown Ink”
Vallejo “Flow Improver”
Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
Vallejo Varnish “Satin Varnish”
Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Matte Varnish”
MDF bases from Wars of Ozz miniatures
Wargames Accessories Steel Bases FOW#1
Elmer’s PVA Glue
Army Painter “Battlefields Grass Green” (flocking)
Army Painter “Battlefields Green Grass” (flocking)
Gamer’s Grass “Wild” (flocking)
Shadow’s Edge Miniatures “6mm Light Blue Tufts” (flocking)
Army Painter “Meadow Flowers” (flocking)
Small stones (flocking)
Small oak twigs (flocking
Again, as you may want to check out the Wars of Ozz figures’ range – there are two places to get them (and I make no money from this btw). The game rules and the figures are available from the following two places:
Mark A. Morin 