Creating a WWII Vichy Counterattack Game Scenario

Over the summer, happily, golf dominated my free time for the most part. I didn’t really have much time for hobby work or wargames. Blogging about what little I did complete or participate in fell to the wayside. The “little” that I refer to is work on my 15mm/1:100 scale WWII scenario, Operation Torch: Vichy Mounts a Counterattack. This scenario is part of a What a Tanker game. It is set in Morocco in November 1942. The Vichy French responded to the American landings during this time with an armored counterattack.

It is a little-known clash. France the June 1940 post-armistice was titurlarly neutral, and had the responsibility to defend its colonies against any allied invasions. At this time in 1942, the Soviets were under massive German pressure on the Eastern Front. They were begging the Allies to get in the fight against the Germans – anywhere at all. However, at this point in the war, the US/UK were not in a position logistically to assault Fortress Europe. They also lacked the necessary forces to execute such a mission successfully.

The invasion of North Africa – and the colonies of Vichy France – became the compromised option. Operation Torch thus came to be. In addition, this assault would open up a line of attack on Rommel’s rear. This would reduce pressure on the British 8th Army in Egypt. However, no one knew how much the Vichy French would resist.

My flyer for the game scenario.

As I write this, the 2025 golf season is over now. At least it is here in balmy Massachusetts in November. It’s time for me to capture my summer and fall efforts that led to my running this games at conventions. This post will cover some of my preparations, upgrades, and the actual games themselves. I will discuss the initial games at HMGS HISTORICON, then my upgrades, then the games at HMGS FALL IN! and EllisCon.

By the time I attended HISTORICON in July of 2025, I had the scenario pretty much where I wanted it. I had play-tested it with friends, and was ready to roll it out. This year, in total I have run the game twice at three different conventions. These are HMGS HISTORICON in July, and both HMGS FALL IN! and EllisCon in November. This makes six iterations so far since the spring.

For vehicles for the game, I have finished many AFV’s for that I have discussed in previous posts. Here below are those posts in reverse chronological order in case you missed them:

  1. M5 Stuart tanks for “Operation Torch: Vichy Mounts an Armored Counterattack” Game
  2. US Vehicles for Operation Torch: TANK DESTROYERS – M3 GMC’s and M6 GMC Fargo’s
  3. US Vehicles for Operation Torch: M3A1 Scout Cars
  4. French Armor for Operation Torch: Panhard 175 TOE’s, Laffly S15 TOE’s, and Berliet VUDB’s
  5. French Armor for Operation Torch: Hotchkiss H35’s, H39’s, and Renault R35’s
  6. French Armor for Operation Torch: Renault FT-17’s
  7. French Armor for Operation Torch: White-Laffly AMD 80’s & Schneider AMC P16’s
  8. Operation Torch: Planning My WWII Gaming Experience for HISTORICON
The vehicles for the game
AFV attributes for the game

In addition to the vehicles, many game aids also were on my to do list. Before HISTORICON, I made road sections and town bases out of poster board and painted them. I also built dice boxes and dice frames for ease of play. Plus, I needed more blast markers for destroyed vehicles.

I was making these dice aids to make play better. What a Tanker is a great game. However, for a multiplayer game at a convention, the activation sequence is not the greatest. It does not keep the players engaged. I decided to borrow Buck services Double Random ActivationTM activation methodology, and that seemed to serve the game well. I also added Bonus Attack Cards and other changes as discussed in the next section.

Overview of My Scenario Rules Modifications

The game uses modified What a Tanker rules. The major modifications that I use are:

  • The game starts with each player receiving $75 in Tanker Bucks.
  • Before there are any play or purchases of extra resources, there is a VICHY FREE ATTACK PHASE. All US vehicles on the table will receive both 1 French infantry attack and 1 French AT attack.  This phase represents the Vichy infantry attacks that were repulsed in November 1942 prior to the armor engagement. This happens only once at the beginning of the game.
  • There is an ACQUISITION PHASE after the free attacks conclude. More vehicles and Bonus Attack Cards may be purchased. This phase happens once at the beginning of each turn.
  • Uses of Bonus Attack Cards in the game simulate infantry, anti-tank, artillery, naval gunfire, and air actions. These are deployed by scout cars according to each sides’ historical capabilities. These cards can be shared across the team. Bonus Attack Cards are purchased with “Tanker Bucks”, which also play into Victory Conditions. Having more Tanker Bucks at the games end is better, as high amount remaining wins the game. I allow teams to share their Tanker Bucks as well. However, you need to use resources to defeat the enemy. You earn $25 for each AFV or plane destroyed. See the card below to see the costs for acquisitions and for rewards. So, a balancing act exists for the players. Do they hoard their Tanker Bucks, or use them effectively against their opponent?
Costs and Rewards as shown on the requisition form.
  • To represent the French vehicles’ advanced age and mechanical unreliability. “OLD” French vehicles that try to move and roll a 3 or less will lose 1 die to temporary damage. Mathematically, there is an 8.33% chance of that happening. So a good number of the Vichy Forces are indeed OLD (mainly the armored cars and the FT-17’s). In addition, all of the French tanks and some armored cars are SLOW – which limits their advances. But, in the game, there are more of them, and not all of the French tanks are OLD.
  • Any vehicle touching a road can convert any die to a DRIVE dice.
  • Armored and scout cars may engage other armored cars and tanks with heavy machine guns or deploy Bonus Attack Cards. Also I have rules that show how devastating any cannon fire would have been against thin-skinned vehicles. Cannon fire causes double hits on thinly armored vehicles that are not tanks.
  • The US Army was inexperienced before these landings. To represent that, their status is GREEN at this point in the war. GREEN means their base roll needed to hit increases. It goes from needing a 6 on 2d6 added together to a 7 as a base number. Most of the French vehicles are SMALL. This necessitates an additional +1 to hit at short range. There is also another +1 at long range. Oh yeah, the Stuarts have just a 37mm gun. This means that the US has a tough time making damaging hits at long range against French tanks.
  • The US use of Bonus Attack Cards is limited to just the US Scout and French Armored Cars. The M5 Stuart’s radios got wet during the landings and were not working. Many French tanks in North Africa did not have radios. The one-man-turrets in all of these Vichy tanks made coordinating activities very difficult.
  • To represent the fight for air superiority, I added Bonus Attack Cards that allow the deployment of French Dewoitine D.520’s and American carrier-bases F4F Wildcats. These vie for air superiority and can also convert to ground attack missions with other Bonus Attack Cards as well.
  • Having air superiority enables the US player to deploy the Avenger TBM’s as spotter planes. These can improve US artillery accuracy significantly. They also can also bomb the French vehicles with depth charges (yes that happened). Lastly, Avenger deployment also opens up the chance for devastating naval gunfire from the light cruiser USS Savannah.
  • Modifying the activation sequencing methodology by using Buck Surdu’s “DOUBLE RANDOM TM ACTIVATION” method.
  • Because of the different activation sequence from What a Tanker, I now use three types of dice. Larger white d6 are used for COMMAND DICE (these let your AFV take actions). Larger colored d6 are used for ACTION DICE (for rolling for movement and firing). Smaller colored d6 are used for ACTIVATION DICE (to, well, activate an AFV in the game).
  • Scoring is done with TANKER BUCKS. Most wins at game end. See the rules file below (downloadable) for all the details.

I was asked to share my rules on the Facebook What a Tanker page. As I am a wicked nice guy (as we say here in Massachusetts), I am happy to do so. Below is the Word document that outlines all of the rules changes in detail. Feel free to download. If you use them, please do share your thoughts and experiences with me, I’d love to hear them.

Let’s look at some photos from the HMGS HISTORICON convention games next.

HMGS HISTORICON 2025 PHOTOS OF THE GAME

I ran the scenario twice at HISTORICON in July 2025. The games went well. Each side won once.

The tabletop set up from the French side. Note the painted poster board roads and town pavements.
Each French player started with 5 vehicles. The number of American vehicles varied by player, usually 2-3 including one M5 Stuart tank.
Set up with Tanker Bucks. I did eventually decide on $75 per player on each side with the differentials being the cost of resources.
The players from the first game – the French won here.
In the second game, the US won. This victory was mainly because Dan Eustace successfully used his Bonus Attack Cards. He successively achieved air superiority with Wildcats, then got the Avenger deployed. This led to calling in naval gunfire from the USS Savannah – unleashing a volley from its 15 6″ guns. The results on the French armor was devastating.

After the game, I pondered what improvements I could make. The tweaks in the rules are reflected in the file I shared previously. However, I need to add:

  • More game aids like dice holders
  • More blast markers
  • Better roads – I wanted rubber ones that laid flat and took up less space in a box.
  • Better town bases that also were rubber and laid flat on the tabletop.
  • Actual plane models to represent the aircraft. I was using photos on flight stands at HISTORICON for the planes, and I wanted better.

I wanted to read a book on the campaign that I learned about. It was recommended to me in a comment to one of my blog post links on TMP. It focused on this phase of WWII, and I planned to do this before I did any more hobby work. Rick Atkinsons’s An Army at Dawn is a true gem of a historical book, and a must read. This was my August effort.

After reading these, it was time to get going on the additional “stuff” listed above. I knocked out the dice frames and similar tasks quickly. I had enough for 8 players, and now I was set for 10.

Building Dirt Roads and City Bases WIP Shots

Now it was time to make the roads and city bases. I stumbled on this excellent video on how to make rubber wargaming roads. It became the blueprint I used and I highly recommend his process.

Here is a link to the excellent video.

Below are progress WIP shots of how I built 54 sections of road and 4 bases.

What I needed included a small paint roller, a caulking gun, and paintable caulk sealant. It also involved cutting up rubber floor runner material. Additionally, play sand and chinchilla dust were used on the roads for texture.
I cut the floor runner rubber with a box cutter on a wooden cutting board. I made the same number and types of dirt roads I had previously made with the poster board (54).

For a working space to work on the roads, I covered one of my gaming tables with paper. The sheets were secured with packing tape and this was sufficient to protect the table.

Here you see some of the road sections in progress. Sand and chinchilla dust were both rolled onto the caulk with a wet paint roller.
The first tranche of roads drying…
…and here painted minus some final dry brushing.
Then it was on to the city bases. I limited the width of the city bases to accommodate using a Green Stuff World Mega roller. The roller made a cobblestone imprint.Greg Priebe was kind enough to gift me the roller. Here I cut the first piece of rubber floor runner. As I did with the roads, I beveled the edges slightly. The edge angle was around 45 degrees.
A caulking gun spread out the sealant. Then I smoothed it as you see with two different putty knives, before rolling the cobblestone patterns. This was the approach for all four bases – I just sized and shaped them differently.
The painting scheme was basically the same for all four. Here you can see the imprinted cobblestones. To accentuate them, I used a Liquitex “Burnt Umber” ink cut with thinner. Then I let them dry before adding a quick dry brush.
The final bases completed. I would place 15mm buildings on them.

This was far more economical than buying similar roads. Now that the dirt roads and town bases were completed, it was time to add my 3 aircraft.

Aircraft Model WIP Shots

My search initially was for the right three 1:100 scale planes, but that effort proved fruitless. No one really makes aircraft in that scale, at least not the ones that I was looking for. Most models were 1:72. I did find some die cast models that would work just fine. They are more like game status makers. Those diecast models were the carrier-based Grumman F4F Wildcat and the Dewoitine D.520. Both had flight stands – an important feature as I wanted their landing gear to be retracted in flight.

A bit of assembly for these two diecast models was required, but not much. That left the Grumman Avenger TBM to source. And lucky me, I found one on eBay – obviously left unassembled since at least 1979 – if not much earlier. It was an Airfix plastic model, and it was complete. The papers inside were amazingly yellowed with age as you will see. I had not built a plastic model like this since I was a kid. It was probably for sale back then!

The F4F Wildcat, the Dewoitine D.520, and the Avenger kit. It says “new”, but…I guess it was at some point in the 1970’s? 1960’s?
The kit contents.
The components laid out so as to figure it all out. The directions were fine. The decals were, well, as you can see, trash. I did order some replacements from eBay as you will see.

As for assembly, it went fine. I painted the three crewmen. The tail gunner will never be seen because the acrylic window was not too clear. As for the outside, I went with a Vallejo “Deep Prussian Blue” – it seemed closest to the box color. In my research, I saw several different color schemes for the undercarriage. Some were blue, some were two-toned. The model would be on a flight stand. This stand would not afford visibility to the bottom, so I decided that blue was sufficient.

Inside the wing – how old was this?
The three crewmen and the rear landing gear and tailhook. The tailhook would not survive the build.
Avenger TBM assembled and painted (and below in the gallery).

The last assembly from the kit for the Avenger was the rockets underneath. I assume that any depth charges would have been in the bomb bay – as unseen as the gunner underneath. So that works!

The rockets are mounted. Next, we moved on to applying appropriate decals. That proved to be the most difficult part.

The decals I bought were from the US and came via a modeling shop in Latvia of all places. I have no idea of the age – except likely post-Cold War I imagine. I used multiple coats of Microscale “Liquid Decal File” to restore them as best I could. Even with that, several of them disintegrated into multiple jigsaw pieces in the progress of placing them on the model. This led to my having to reconstruct the decals while wet. Ugh. I made it work.

But wait – before all the decal work – I needed a flight stand! I made one with a 1/4″ wooden dowel, green stuff, and a 2″ acrylic base. I carefully carved out a hole on the model to accommodate the stand.

Then it was on to applying decals as best as I could.

Mid-stage with the decals. The tail and rudder ones were really finicky.

Finally the planes were done. I also built a special travel box for the Avenger. For the other two, the original package blisters served that purpose.

All three planes for the game, frontal view…
…and a side view.

Upon completion, I could mock up the tabletop in the cellar in preparation for HMGS FALL IN! in Lancaster PA and EllisCon in Danielson, CT.

Mock up of the Tabletop

I used photos of this mock up in my cellar to guide its recreation at both upcoming gaming conventions.

First up, HMGS FALL IN!

HMGS FALL IN! 2025 PHOTOS OF THE GAME

The game as set up in the H.A.W.K.’s room.
The players in my first game. It was nice to have my Wargame Wingman Leif Magnuson in the game. Several Maine Historical Wargame Association members joined as well! As I am also a member of MHWA, that was VERY cool.
The French tanks and armored cars were cautious about leaving a town here.
The Mainers plot their strategy.

The US then deployed air, achieved superiority, and brought on the Avenger.

The F4F Wildcat about to dispatch the Dewoitine D.520.
While US vehicles burn in the background, the Avenger deploys, and calls in naval gunfire…
…blasting the Vichy armor.

With that, the US won the first game I ran.

In the second game, the tables turned. The US never got going very well. Or, perhaps, the French were very lucky. Take your pick. I don’t have any photos of that game (apologies) – but it was a complete French victory.

Next up, one week later, was EllisCon.

EllisCon 2025 Photos

Here I also ran the game twice.

The first game at EllisCon had 4 players. Leif joined us again for both games. Here he strategizes for the French with his teammate Brian.
A Laffly S15 TOE armored car is hit and burns early in the game.
The US players are then hit hard, as the M5 Stuart “Beast”, and M3A1 Scout Car “Annie” are destroyed. The M3 GMC “Hurricane” takes cover in a brush firing position.
Once again, though at a different convention, the Vichy armor looks to leave the town safely in the face of “Hurricane”.
The French gain air superiority.
An AMC Schneider P16 (the old armored car on right) uses its 37mm gun to destroy the M5 Stuart “Beast”.
The FT-17 ” Marechal Foch” is taken out near r=the end of the game.

At the end, the Vichy claimed a victory, as their Tanker Bucks were more than the Americans total.

In game two, the fortunes reversed yet again. Leif played again and was joined on the other side by Gregg Belevick. Both were involved in my initial play testing of this scenario.

The players discuss their game strategies.
The French players move up – and Gregg has a twinkle in his eye – does he have a plan?
Yours truly GM’s the game. Photo courtesy of David DeVeau
I guess Gregg did have a plan – naval gunfire! Convention history repeats itself as 5 Vichy vehicles burn on the Moroccan sand.

The US won this game with the last barrage destroying 1/3 of the Vichy force deployed at the time. A massive US victory!

I really like this scenario. So far, the victories have been 3 for each side. It seems pretty fairly balanced. It’s fun and highlights a little-known part of WWII. It’s likely coming again to a convention in 2026.

I list the paints that I used for the roads at the end of this blog post. For my records, I am sharing these materials I use for these projects with you, dear reader. You’ll see the list below detailing the process and materials for both the roads/bases and the Avenger torpedo bomber.

I hope that you found this tale of my journey interesting. If you do use my rules modifications, again please let me know how they worked out. If you have any questions, certainly throw them at me. I’d also enjoy any feedback on the work or this post in the comments section. Thanks in advance for that.

Lastly, I have compiled all of my posts on WWII games and projects. There is a consolidated list of posts and their links located here.

MATERIALS USED

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS AND FLOCKING USED ON THE DIRT ROADS:

  1. TrafficMaster Rubber Floor Runner from Home Depot, SKU 1003092882
  2. DynaFlex Ultra Advanced All Weather Sealant “Cedar Tan”, (paintable caulking)
  3. Quikrete “All Purpose Sand”
  4. Chinchilla Dust
  5. DecoArt Americana “Cinnamon Stick”
  6. DecoArt Americana “Deep Ochre”
  7. DecoArt Americana “Raw Sienna”
  8. DecoArt Americana “Raw Umber”
  9. Apple Barrel “Burnt Umber”
  10. Vallejo Thinner

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS AND FLOCKING USED ON THE TOWN BASES:

  1. TrafficMaster Rubber Floor Runner from Home Depot, SKU 1003092882
  2. DynaFlex Ultra Advanced All Weather Sealant “Cedar Tan”, (paintable caulking)
  3. Quikrete “All Purpose Sand”
  4. Chinchilla Dust
  5. DecoArt Americana “Cinnamon Stick”
  6. DecoArt Americana “Deep Ochre”
  7. DecoArt Americana “Raw Sienna”
  8. DecoArt Americana “Raw Umber”
  9. Apple Barrel “Burnt Umber”
  10. Vallejo Thinner
  11. Liquitex “Burnt Umber” (ink)

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS AND FLOCKING USED ON THE AIRFIX AVENGER TBM-3 MODEL:

  1. Airfix Grumman Avenger TBM-3 1:72 plastic model kit
  2. Tamiya “Extra Thin Cement”
  3. Vallejo Surface Primer “USA Olive Drab”
  4. Vallejo Surface Primer “Sun Yellow”
  5. Vallejo Surface Primer “German Dark Yellow”
  6. Vallejo Surface Primer “Leather Brown”
  7. Vallejo Surface Primer “Black”
  8. P3 “Midland Flesh”
  9. Army Painter “Soft Tone” (wash)
  10. P3 “Flesh Wash”
  11. Vallejo Model Color “Dark Prussian Blue”
  12. Vallejo Thinner Medium
  13. Hataka “Gris Clair Neutre”
  14. Reaper MSP Core Colors “Pure White”
  15. Vallejo Model Air “Black Metallic”
  16. Tamiya “XF-16 Flat Aluminum”
  17. Green Stuff
  18. Vallejo Model Air Metallic “Signal Red”
  19. Vallejo Model Color “Red”
  20. Vallejo “Mecha Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  21. Vallejo Thinner
  22. Citadel “Nuln Oil Gloss” (shade/wash)
  23. 1/4″ square wooden dowel
  24. 2″ Clear acrylic disk
  25. 2″ steel washer
  26. Gorilla Glue
  27. Microscale Industries “Liquid Decal Film”
  28. Avenger decals from eBay
  29. Microscale Industries “Micro Set”
  30. Microscale Industries “Micro Sol”

Thanks for looking!

US Vehicles for Operation Torch: TANK DESTROYERS – M3 GMC’s and M6 GMC Fargo’s

The US Army had a lot of catching up to do at the start of World War II. This was true both in terms of vehicles and doctrine in the way of armored warfare. This included anti-tank units.

Initially, the US Army experienced internal squabbles about anti-tank troops and control. These were among the infantry, cavalry, and artillery branches. They disputed over which would control what were then-called “anti-tank battalions”. Interestingly, the Armor Branch (created in 1940) had little interest in that fight. It desired to stay focused on offensive operations.

The September 1941 Louisiana Maneuvers demonstrated the efficacy of anti- tank battalions. In June 1942, the Army created a new branch for this force. They also developed a doctrine to support their use (Field Manual 18–5, Tactical Employment, Tank Destroyer Unit). Tank destroyer battalions were then created and began to be fielded.

Developing doctrine is one thing – fielding self-propelled anti-tank equipment is another. When Operation Torch was launched, there were not any of the tank destroyers that you saw in later battles. No M10 Wolverines, M18 Hellcats, or M36 Jacksons – or even towed M1 57mm or M5 guns – took part in Torch.

Nope, at the start of the war, the US Army fielded just two models of tank destroyer. One was on an M3 half-track, which mounted the venerable 75mm Canon_de_75_modèle_1897. This combination was called the M3 Gun Motor Carriage (GMC). The other was the M6 Gun Motor Carriage (GMC). This was a Dodge Fargo truck with a rear-mounted M3 37mm gun. Defensively, needless to say, both of these types were not well-armored at all.

Offensively, while the 75mm gun could still pack an anti-armor punch, the 37mm was well on its way to complete obsolescence. Add to that the M6 GMC was rearward-facing. It would have to be turned around to fire, That would have been quite a challenge in combat. I imagine that it was inspired by the British use of portee anti-tank weapons. However, the main reason was probably the urgency of fielding something to fight in the anti-tank role. Add to that – US industrial might had not yet reached full production capacity seen later in the war.

M3 GMC
M6 GMC

But you go to war with the Army you have. Tank Destroyer battalions were formed, consisting of a headquarters company, a reconnaissance company (including a pioneer platoon – Engineers!), and 3 twelve-vehicle tank destroyer companies. Each company fielded each one platoon of M6 Fargo GMC’s and two platoons of M3 GMC’s. Each M6 platoon had 4 vehicles, and each of both of the M3 platoons had 4. These would see combat starting in November 1942 during Operation Torch.

At that point, doctrinally, tank destroyers were by nature defensive forces. They were supposed to blunt any enemy armored attack or counterattack – obviously by destroying tanks. This would allow for counterattack by US tanks and infantry. Operation Torch would be the first test.

For my What a Tanker games for Operation Torch at HISTORICON 2025, I needed both types of tank destroyers. For the M3 GMC’s, I bought 6 from Old Glory (SKU CD-223A) and assembled and painted up just 3. I also found one Battlefront/FOW model (SKU US101) at HAVOC that joined the mix. Now I had 4 M3 GMC’s for gaming. M6 GMC were not easy to source – and I also had never heard of them. So my friend Greg Priebe agreed to 3D-print some for me. You may remember that Greg printed the French vehicles for me I previously wrote about here. He made Panhard 175 TOE’s and Berliet VUDB’s for me.

Thanks again Greg!

I was able to put together 3 M6 GMC’s with what Greg sent me. I worked on these in June as well.

June was a crazy month – and I was able to get these together before HISTORICON 2025. As for photos – well you’ll see what I have.

M3 GMC

The three Old Glory models are metal, while the FOW model is metal and resin. all are 15mm/1:100 scale. Painting the crews was challenging (and fun)!

Three Old Glory M3 GMC models are on the bottom, with the FOW model at the top of the photo.

I painted them up with both gold and white stars. The gold stars were unique to the North African campaign. I thought they gave a more authentic Operation Torch look. Apparently in November of 1942, standardization to white stars was not yet part of the US Army’s official painting scheme. Unlike my M3A1 Scout Cars, I freehand painted the stars. I found they looked better than my decals. For more variation, I either painted the stars on the hood or the grills. Also, each got a name – I used the decals that I had available. The names of these were:

  • BLOOD N GUTS
  • DESTRUCTION
  • HURRICANE
  • LUCKY
My 4 M3 GMC’s. From left to right, BLOOD N GUTS, HURRICANE, DESTRUCTION and LUCKY (the only FOW model).
Close ups of DESTRUCTION and HURRICANE.

M6 GMC (FARGO)

These were all 3D-printed resin in 15mm/1:100 scale. I wish that I had been able to add crew to these. They were already so fiddly and small, that I satisfied myself with just having a driver. Even at that I had to do a good amount of surgery to get him to fit in his seat!

The M6 GMC’s washed after putting in magnets and ready for assembly and painting. I added magnets to each M3 and M6 to allow brewed-up markers to stick to the vehicles on the tabletop.
The M6 GMC’s shown here painted staring at the back end of my Berliet VUDB’s. The M6’s are awaiting basing work and varnishing.

Like with the M3 GMC’s, I gave names to these as well. These names were the only differentiator for these models. The names were:

  • BUCK (for Buck Surdu)
  • DUKE
  • TEX
A close up of two completed models. Here, BUCK is maneuvering into a hide firing position. It would of course have to turn around to fire. Behind is DUKE moving up the road.
A closer view of BUCK.

While the M3 GMC was partially effective in North Africa, the M6 was not. Clearly, both were very vulnerable to direct and indirect fire. As time progressed, they were both replaced by self-propelled vehicles with turrets and better protection. The M3 GMC’s were converted back into half-tracks. The M6 GMC’s were stripped of their guns, and were later used as just trucks.

In conclusion, I had some tank destroyers for Operation Torch games of What a Tanker! I also hope that you enjoyed this post on my early war tank destroyers. All that I have left to share on this project are my 8 American M5 Stuart tanks. I will also share a bit about my games at HISTORICON.

What did you think of these tank destroyers? Did anything surprise you? Motivate you to get some for yourself? Please let me know your thoughts in the comments section!

Lastly, you can find all of my posts on WWII games and projects in one place. There is a consolidated list of posts and their links located here.

The next lists are what I used on these vehicles. I review these lists for my own uses on future projects. For some of you, they may also be helpful.

MATERIALS USED

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS AND FLOCKING USED ON THE ONE BATTLEFRONT/FLAMES OF WAR RESIN M3 GMC MODEL AND THE THREE OLD GLORY M3 GMC MODELS:

  1. Green Stuff
  2. Vallejo Surface Primer “Black”
  3. Vallejo Surface Primer “USA Olive Drab”
  4. Gorilla Glue
  5. Battlefront “European Skin”
  6. Vallejo Thinner Medium
  7. War Games Accessories Steel Bases Number 23 (1½” x 2″)
  8. War Games Accessories Steel Bases Number 16 (½” x ½”)
  9. Green Stuff Wooden Blocks, steel bolts, steel washers, magnets, steel screws
  10. Neodymium magnets (⅛” and ¼”)
  11. Vallejo Surface Primer “German Green Brown”
  12. Army Painter “Mid Brown” (shade/wash)
  13. Reaper MSP Core Colors “Blackened Brown”
  14. Vallejo Model Color “USA Olive Drab”
  15. Army Painter “Flesh Wash” (shade/wash)
  16. Vallejo Model Color “Brass”
  17. Vallejo Model Air “Tire Black”
  18. Vallejo Model Color “Dark Sea Grey”
  19. Vallejo Primers “NATO Green”
  20. Army Painter “Military Shader” (shade/wash)
  21. Reaper MSP “Pure White”
  22. Citadel “Averland Sunset”
  23. Vallejo Mecha Color “Dark Steel”
  24. Army Painter “Dark Tone” (wash/shade)
  25. Citadel “Agrellan Badlands” (texture)
  26. Citadel “Agrellan Earth” (texture)
  27. Vallejo Mecha Weathering Effects “Dark Rust Wash”
  28. Vallejo “Mecha Varnish Gloss”
  29. Microscale Industries “Micro Set”
  30. Microscale Industries “Micro Sol”
  31. Microscale Industries “Liquid Decal Film”
  32. Gin Fritter US Army decals
  33. Battlefront US Army decals
  34. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  35. Citadel “‘Ardcoat”
  36. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  37. Vallejo Flow Improver
  38. Vallejo Thinner
  39. Vallejo “Matte Polyurethane Varnish”
  40. Printed labels on card stock
  41. Gamers Grass “Tiny Beige 2mm Tufts” (flocking)
  42. PVA Glue

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS AND FLOCKING USED ON THE THREE RESIN M6 GMC MODELS (FARGO’S):

  1. Gorilla Glue
  2. Green Stuff Neodymium magnets (⅛”)
  3. Wooden Blocks, steel bolts, steel washers, magnets, steel screws
  4. Vallejo Surface Primer “Black”
  5. Vallejo Surface Primer “USA Olive Drab”
  6. Battlefront “European Skin”
  7. Vallejo Thinner Medium
  8. War Games Accessories Steel Bases Number 23 (1½” x 2″)
  9. Vallejo Surface Primer “German Green Brown”
  10. Army Painter “Mid Brown” (shade/wash)
  11. Reaper MSP Core Colors “Blackened Brown”
  12. FolkArt “Champagne”
  13. Army Painter “Flesh Wash” (shade/wash)
  14. Vallejo Model Air “Tire Black”
  15. Vallejo Model Color “Dark Sea Grey”
  16. Vallejo Primers “NATO Green”
  17. Army Painter “Military Shader” (shade/wash)
  18. Citadel “Averland Sunset”
  19. Citadel “Agrellan Badlands” (texture)
  20. Citadel “Agrellan Earth” (texture)
  21. Vallejo “Mecha Varnish Gloss”
  22. Microscale Industries “Micro Set”
  23. Microscale Industries “Micro Sol”
  24. Microscale Industries “Liquid Decal Film”
  25. Battlefront US Army decals
  26. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  27. Citadel “‘Ardcoat”
  28. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  29. Vallejo Flow Improver
  30. Vallejo Thinner
  31. Vallejo “Matte Polyurethane Varnish”
  32. Printed labels on card stock
  33. Gamers Grass “Tiny Beige 2mm Tufts” (flocking)
  34. PVA Glue

Thanks for checking this out!

French Armor for Operation Torch: Panhard 175 TOE’s, Laffly S15 TOE’s, and Berliet VUDB’s

Yes – more armored cars of French origin are coming your way right here and now!

This post will cover off on the last three vehicle types that I built and painted for Vichy French forces during Operation Torch. All three here are armored cars, but each is definitely different and not commonly seen in tabletop wargames. I thought that that aspect alone would make for some interesting historical interest as well as game aesthetics.

Like the other inter-war armored cars – including the White-Laffly AMD 80’s and the Schneider AMC P16’s that I posted about here – these three were all models of AFV that were “good enough for the colonies”. The French Army certainly considered them as not good enough for defending against a potential German attack. Some were in France during 1939-1940, but most were in North Africa and the Levant. All of these were at least armed with machine guns, with the Panhard having a 25mm cannon as well.

Certainly finding appropriate 15mm/1:100 scale models of these was not easy. Luckily I managed to enlist the help of my friend Greg Priebe who 3D-printed two of these types. I did get the third type (Laffly S15 TOE) from Butlers’ Printed Models. Let’s look at each vehicle and model in turn.

Panhard 175 TOE

Photo from https://tank-afv.com/ww2/france/panhard-165-175.php

The Panhard 165 and 175 TOE’s shared similar frames – with the 175 version being a modification/upgrade. The acronym “TOE” stood for théâtres d’opérations extérieurs – i.e. designed for foreign theaters of operations like the colonies. Greg printed for me two Panhard 175’s that I assembled and painted. In reality, it was, as you can see, very tall (9.1′). That’s just 1′ 2″ shorter than the M3 Lee!

Do not confuse the 175 with the more well-known Panhard AMD 178. The 165 TOE type was built in the early 1930’s with the 175 TOE upgrades happening around 1934. Maybe 60 or so were initially built and then so upgraded. It did have a 25mm antitank gun, so it possessed some light antiarmor capability. Armor-wise, it had just 6-9mm of riveted armor, so not much. These were really designed to work to keep France’s colonies in line.

Greg sent me a bag of the models that he printed in late April. I was able to cobble together two good vehicles from the pieces. After a good (but gentle) washing (I needed to be careful of the fiddly fenders), I drilled out and installed small magnets as you see below. This was to make the turrets movable – as well as to hold smoke markers if they got brewed up or knocked out in a game. For a painting scheme. I used a green primer base with yellow camouflage stripes, akin to my H35’s. All of my paints used are listed as references at this post’s end for those interested in such stuff.

Panhard 175 TOE’s drilled out with installed magnets.
Panhard 175 TOE’s painted but before tufts and final base work was completed.
Completed Panhard 175 TOE models completed, shown here in cover scouting for approaching US vehicles during an Operation Torch game of What a Tanker.

Laffly S15 TOE

Photo from https://cartalana.com/033-15.php

This was yet another Laffly-modified truck. These were common civilian truck chassis developed into a range of different military types, one of which was the Laffly S15 TOE. It was designed for colonial use in 1934, but was not delivered to the French Army until 1938 or 1939. It had a single machine gun – a Reibel 7.5 mm light machine gun located inside of a domed turret. I thought it had a unique look.

I really was impressed with my examples from Butlers’ Printed Models. Here is the link for the model.

Unfortunately, my original purchased models were lost in transit. Yet, the company quickly sent me another pair of models – great customer service! They were crisp and very nice resin models. As I was rushing to finish all these vehicles (yes I am repeating that issue!), I have no WIP shots! For a painting scheme, I went with a sandy look.

My finished Laffly S15 TOE Models.

Berliet VUDB

The last type of Vichy French armored car that Greg printed up for me was a trio of Berliet VUDB’s. This type was made by – the Berliet company – which was in competition with Laffly and Panhard for French government contracts. It seems that all three companies got some business. One can only imagine what having so many armored car variants would do to logistics and the need for spare parts.

Berliet VUDB – photo from https://cartalana.com/033-15.php

As you can see, it was a 4×4 armored car with a big spare tire. Some credit this vehicle with the accolade of being the first armored personnel carrier as it had space for a driver and seven soldiers. The vehicle even had ports on the sides from which soldiers could fire their rifles while riding inside. It was armed with two Fusil-mitrailleur Modèle 1924 Modifié 29 machine guns (the standard French light machine gun at the beginning of WWII). Armor was just 7mm thick.

Detail from the Berliet VUDB wikipedia page – which is in French (luckily my second language).

” VUDB” is a French acronym for “voiture de prise de contact“, or “contact vehicle”. It was a scout car in US parlance and use. Sixty-two were produced between 1929 and 1932 – and originally were looked at to be used in the pacification of Morocco in the early 1930’s after the Rif War. There were a number of them in Morocco in November 1942.

As for the models, these were very solid resin prints. No assembly was required except for my usual drilling out holes for neodymium magnets.

My three Berliet VUDB’s at the start.
Painted Berliet VUDB’s before I added labels and flocking on the bases. While a Berliet VUDB could have had two machine guns sticking out, the model only had the one out.
Berliet VUDB’s on tabletop heading to the front.

That finishes off the 31 AFV’s that I assembled and painted for my Operation Torch What a Tanker game. All are in their glory…well their box…below.

31 French tanks and armored cars!

I have now caught up on all my French vehicles! It’s time to move on to the Americans next!

I have 22 American tanks, tank destroyers, or armored cars to write about next. All were used in Operation Torch in November 1942. These vehicles will be the topics of my next posts.

Please, I’d love to hear any feedback – were you surprised at anything here? Learn anything? Get inspired?

Let me know your thoughts in the comments section!

Lastly, for all of my posts on WWII games and projects – there is a consolidated list of posts and their links located here.

MATERIALS USED

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS AND FLOCKING USED ON THE TWO PANHARD 175 TOE MODELS 3D-PRINTED BY GREG PRIEBE:

  1. Green Stuff
  2. War Games Accessories Steel Bases Number 23 (1½” x 2″)
  3. Neodymium magnets (⅛”)
  4. Gorilla Glue
  5. Vallejo Surface Primer “Black”
  6. Wooden Blocks, steel bolts, steel washers, nails, magnets, steel screws
  7. Vallejo Primers “Desert Tan”
  8. Vallejo Model Color “Dark Yellow”
  9. Vallejo “Thinner Medium”
  10. Vallejo Surface Primer “German Green Brown”
  11. Reaper MSP Core Colors “Blackened Brown”
  12. Army Painter “Mid Brown” (shade/wash)
  13. Citadel “Agrellan Badlands” (texture)
  14. Vallejo Primers “NATO Green”
  15. Vallejo Model Air “Tire Black”
  16. Vallejo Model Color “Dark Sea Grey”
  17. Poster tack
  18. Reaper MSP Core Colors “Blackened Brown”
  19. Army Painter “Mid Brown” (shade/wash)
  20. FolkArt “Champagne”
  21. Vallejo “Mecha Varnish Gloss”
  22. Microscale Industries “Micro Set”
  23. Microscale Industries “Micro Sol”
  24. Microscale Industries “Liquid Decal Film”
  25. Flames of War French Decal Set (FR940)
  26. Peddinghaus-Decals 1/100 2181 “World of Flames French tanks early war”
  27. Citadel “‘Ardcoat”
  28. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  29. Vallejo Mecha Weathering Effects “Dark Rust Wash”
  30. Army Painter “Dark Tone” (wash)
  31. Vallejo Flow Improver
  32. Vallejo Thinner
  33. Vallejo “Matte Polyurethane Varnish”
  34. Printed labels on card stock
  35. Gamers Grass “Tiny Beige 2mm Tufts” (flocking)
  36. PVA Glue

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS AND FLOCKING USED ON THE TWO LAFFLY S15 TOE MODELS FROM BUTLERS’ PRINTED MODELS:

  1. No. 19 x ½” flat head nails
  2. War Games Accessories Steel Bases Number 23 (1½” x 2″)
  3. Gorilla Glue
  4. Green Stuff
  5. Neodymium magnets (⅛”)
  6. Daisy BB’s
  7. Vallejo Surface Primer “Black”
  8. Wooden Blocks, steel bolts, steel washers, nails, magnets, steel screws
  9. Vallejo Surface Primer “German Green Brown”
  10. Army Painter “Mid Brown” (shade/wash)
  11. Vallejo Primers “Desert Tan”
  12. Vallejo Model Color “Black”
  13. Vallejo Model Air “Tire Black”
  14. Vallejo Model Color “Dark Sea Grey”
  15. Battlefront “Oxide Red”
  16. Reaper MSP “Carrot Top Red”
  17. Vallejo “Thinner Medium”
  18. Vallejo Mecha Color “Dark Steel”
  19. Vallejo Mecha Color “Sand Yellow”
  20. Army Painter “Dark Tone” (wash)
  21. FolkArt “Champagne”
  22. Citadel “Agrellan Earth” (texture)
  23. Citadel “Agrellan Badlands” (texture)
  24. Reaper MSP Core Colors “Blackened Brown”
  25. Vallejo “Mecha Varnish Gloss”
  26. Microscale Industries “Micro Set”
  27. Microscale Industries “Micro Sol”
  28. Microscale Industries “Liquid Decal Film”
  29. Flames of War French Decal Set (FR940)
  30. Peddinghaus-Decals 1/100 2181 “World of Flames French tanks early war”
  31. Citadel “‘Ardcoat”
  32. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  33. Vallejo Mecha Weathering Effects “Dark Rust Wash”
  34. Vallejo Flow Improver
  35. Vallejo Thinner
  36. Vallejo “Matte Polyurethane Varnish”
  37. Printed labels on card stock
  38. Gamers Grass “Tiny Beige 2mm Tufts” (flocking)
  39. PVA Glue

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS AND FLOCKING USED ON THE THREE BERLIET VUDB MODELS 3D-PRINTED BY GREG PRIEBE:

  1. Green Stuff
  2. War Games Accessories Steel Bases Number 23 (1½” x 2″)
  3. Neodymium magnets (⅛”)
  4. Gorilla Glue
  5. Vallejo Surface Primer “Black”
  6. Wooden Blocks, steel bolts, steel washers, nails, magnets, steel screws
  7. Vallejo Primers “Desert Tan”
  8. Vallejo Model Color “Dark Yellow”
  9. Vallejo “Thinner Medium”
  10. Vallejo Surface Primer “German Green Brown”
  11. Battlefront “Oxide Red”
  12. Reaper MSP “Carrot Top Red”
  13. Vallejo Model Air “Tire Black”
  14. Vallejo Model Color “Dark Sea Grey”
  15. Vallejo Mecha Color “Dark Steel”
  16. Army Painter “Mid Brown” (shade/wash)
  17. Reaper MSP Core Colors “Blackened Brown”
  18. Citadel “Agrellan Badlands” (texture)
  19. Vallejo “Mecha Varnish Gloss”
  20. Microscale Industries “Micro Set”
  21. Microscale Industries “Micro Sol”
  22. Microscale Industries “Liquid Decal Film”
  23. Flames of War French Decal Set (FR940)
  24. Peddinghaus-Decals 1/100 2181 “World of Flames French tanks early war”
  25. Citadel “‘Ardcoat”
  26. Vallejo “Gloss Acrylic Varnish”
  27. FolkArt “Champagne”
  28. Vallejo Mecha Weathering Effects “Dark Rust Wash”
  29. Vallejo Flow Improver
  30. Vallejo Thinner
  31. Vallejo “Matte Polyurethane Varnish”
  32. Printed labels on card stock
  33. Gamers Grass “Tiny Beige 2mm Tufts” (flocking)
  34. PVA Glue
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